Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, UNR33L said:

14656399_385889771798994_797822290495140

if you are  going to drive a falcon or commodore without flared guards, you have to accept you will have shitty offset on the front or ridiculous camber

No matter how hard you try, there is no option

4 hours ago, joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo said:

if you are  going to drive a falcon or commodore without flared guards, you have to accept you will have shitty offset on the front or ridiculous camber

No matter how hard you try, there is no option

could be worst, could be a 'stanced bro golf' :P 

But yer this guy told me his rims fit, i told him no.. they dont.. he had to customize control arms and everything and they still dont fit. i think they're 10.5s or some shit on the front 

Was doing some annual compliance stuff at work and in the program there is a car that for some reason represents a test on commercial property valuations... Anyway it's a fiat 500.

Was stock last year, but this year some IT nerd has stopped some TE37SL's on it.

I thought he was driving the topstage S14?

Is he driving the Team Lori Bluebird aswell?

Yep, he's a busy man.
But no offence, the bluebird is a half job because it never does more than 2 consecutive laps.

Boys and girls this is why you don't drop in a second-hand motor and hope for the best.

Number 1 conrod bearing spun and caused damage to crank. Oil pump drive also damaged.

Seller has agreed for a partial refund & the build will continue!

000b5d7b6b17a479647b29cb0db00cc6.jpg

04dc2d7e615d8560ff6c42144f5e8516.jpg

8fb757c84ccfb5e64b52c9f935f5bfdf.jpg

On 6/24/2016 at 8:03 PM, emts said:

Carpel tunnel, had surgery, tried to get back into it, on going issues could not keep going.

he was shattered.

he still turns up to some gymkanas and such

Has anyone got any recommendations now Mick has hung up the spray gun?. I want to do a windows out full car respray with my 32.

Andrew

2 minutes ago, joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo said:

Why bother. Just spend the same amount as a new paint job on a final inspection detail every year

That's the VWL way

Needs some TLC after 10 years of track work.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...