Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As someone who has been through the shitstorm that is a fire / total loss...unless they set the fire intentionally after realising renovations suck / house falling apart (in which case they'd probably knock back donations from friends) or the insurance payout is significantly more than the place is worth...insurance money is only ever the big consolation in said shitstorm. The logistics of re-organizing life, psychological trauma, irreplaceables lost, living out of a motel or rental until the insurance payout and rebuild can pretty much be written off as a difficult and not completely enjoyable chapter in your life. Insurance payout can take 6 months+ too. On the plus side you can realise how few of your hoarded possessions you actually need.

So on that note I would have donated simply so they would have some cash to go and enjoy a vacation or some nice events for a distraction from all that. At the same time, I don't think people should be giving you shit for not donating, that's entirely your choice. The question I always ask (and near impossible to answer) is if they would have done it in return for you.

When I was younger we had a weekend away with a large group of friends and someone broke into the house and nicked a girl's ghd hair straightener and some CDs...well next minute there was a hat passed around to raise funds for a hair straightener. f**k that, I wasn't close mates with the chick and it's a hair straightener, shit happens. Still felt like I got judged for it, though...

I did end up donating though. Some guys were pushing for $100 but not gonna put in that much. Call me hesitant at giving money to someone so they can give money to someone so they can give money to the recipient.
Turns out this guys wife is 4 months pregnant too. Would suck.

At the same time I feel throwing money at things does not solve the problem. Like you said, it's all the shit money doesn't solve that sucks.

VWL ethics time:
ouse burning down, got out of house.
This was over Christmas break, colleaguesfriends heard about the issue. Word spread through


Nowadays everybody wanna talk like they got something to say
But nothing comes out when they move their lips
Just a bunch of gibberish
And motherf**kers act like they forgot about Drez

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, Leroy Peterson said:

I did end up donating though. Some guys were pushing for $100 but not gonna put in that much. Call me hesitant at giving money to someone so they can give money to someone so they can give money to the recipient.
Turns out this guys wife is 4 months pregnant too. Would suck.

At the same time I feel throwing money at things does not solve the problem. Like you said, it's all the shit money doesn't solve that sucks.

I agree. Some problems it solves, others it's just a distraction for - like the exchange of dignity for money when people sue for slander / defamation. Does getting a payout really amend the public embarrassment suffered lol, not at all.

People throw money at things to resolve dissonance because it's easier than physically helping the situation. It's not much different to giving cash as a present. Hence crowdfunding social justice is such a f**king lazy cause: woman gets verbally abused on a bus, nek minute crowdfunded 100k from people because they feel sorry for her and wanna make the situation better from the armchair.

1 hour ago, Leroy Peterson said:

I did end up donating though. Some guys were pushing for $100 but not gonna put in that much. Call me hesitant at giving money to someone so they can give money to someone so they can give money to the recipient.
Turns out this guys wife is 4 months pregnant too. Would suck.

At the same time I feel throwing money at things does not solve the problem. Like you said, it's all the shit money doesn't solve that sucks.

 

I went from the HG to a GTX3076r... safe to say I was like OH YEP OK THIS IS GREAT WHY DIDNT I DO THIS SOONER.
Especially as birdie told me you are running 320kw anyhow.


you brought a borg warner? which one?

Which hypergear turbo did u originally have?

Why did u go from a gtx3076 which u thought was great to a gtx3582?
4 minutes ago, blah_blah said:

 


you brought a borg warner? which one?

Which hypergear turbo did u originally have?

Why did u go from a gtx3076 which u thought was great to a gtx3582?

 

have you ever... EVER seen this guy do ANYTHING logical?

23 minutes ago, joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo said:

have you ever... EVER seen this guy do ANYTHING logical?

28 minutes ago, blah_blah said:


you brought a borg warner? which one?

Which hypergear turbo did u originally have?

Why did u go from a gtx3076 which u thought was great to a gtx3582?

 

7670 (going to be awhile before it is on, like, half a year)
I had a highflow, then a ATR45 (the one you have)


I went to a GTX3076R because I did not want too much power, I chose this over the HG because I couldn't replicate the results or expectations. I immediately replicated them with the GTX. I chose the GTX3076R because Supra people run them on a 3L, make nearly 400kw and have killer response, which has always been my priority over power.

I went to a GTX3582R because I lost 100RWKW at 5800RPM onwards (between 5800RPM and 6000RPM I literally dropped 100rwkw) so it was clearly choked. So I went the GTX3582 which had a much larger overall power band as I could rev it out. I gained 1500 usable RPM at the top of the rev range, and lost maybe... 300? rpm threshold.

If the GTX3076R choked, why would I be going back to a 7670 which is about the same size? Different manifold, much larger rear housing, and I'm only aiming at about ~320kw. Was pushing 400 through the GTX3076R.

 

4 hours ago, joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo said:

 


Nowadays everybody wanna talk like they got something to say
But nothing comes out when they move their lips
Just a bunch of gibberish
And motherf**kers act like they forgot about Drez
 

 

Another classic CD for colleagues to vibe with

50 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

7670 (going to be awhile before it is on, like, half a year)
I had a highflow, then a ATR45 (the one you have)


I went to a GTX3076R because I did not want too much power, I chose this over the HG because I couldn't replicate the results or expectations. I immediately replicated them with the GTX. I chose the GTX3076R because Supra people run them on a 3L, make nearly 400kw and have killer response, which has always been my priority over power.

I went to a GTX3582R because I lost 100RWKW at 5800RPM onwards (between 5800RPM and 6000RPM I literally dropped 100rwkw) so it was clearly choked. So I went the GTX3582 which had a much larger overall power band as I could rev it out. I gained 1500 usable RPM at the top of the rev range, and lost maybe... 300? rpm threshold.

If the GTX3076R choked, why would I be going back to a 7670 which is about the same size? Different manifold, much larger rear housing, and I'm only aiming at about ~320kw. Was pushing 400 through the GTX3076R.

 

How often do you sit above 5800rpm? What power did the 3076 make before it choked?

Seems to me a 3071 would produce your 320rwkw in a 2.8 on E85 with better response than any of the aforementioned turbos. I mean who cares if it chokes as long as it makes your desired power figure at some point and you have a killer midrange to carry you through the next gears?

I have this argument with everyone who tells me -9s are too small for a GTR and I should go -5s. Sure they will choke up top, but they are still going to be making ~370-380kw as they do so, which is plenty of power in a road going vehicle. Street is not about top end!

Edit: nevermind, re-read your post which is written like a murder mystery and discovered that you've done the return to a smaller / more responsive turbo that will likely choke up top. Welcome to the good life.

I wrote it out because there IS logic in it... But yes I much prefer a fat midrange over peaky top end and always have, especially without AWD.

What works on a 2.5 really doesn't seem to apply to a 2.8 though.

I don't mind it rolling over up top in results you see (like -9s) but mine was much more severe than that, it was really ugly and you could see the whole engine bay glow red from the rear housing.. It was a 'couple dyno runs then cut it short and go home' scenario.

Its possible that over aggressive timing (30-32deg!) Was causing that as well.

Live and learn!

And given that his blown an engine due to massive restrictions on the hotside probably not a good idea to keep the GTX3076 with a dead power band above 5.8k

Reading the BW thread doesnt sound like a 7670 fits stock position? You going highmount or something?

 

There are ways around the small turbo posing a hot side restriction, wastegate setup, rearhousing vs comp housing ratio etc.

Plenty of small turbos used on large engines just for a power boost - most manufacturers run a small turbo harder these days for more linear delivery.

My turbo chokes at 5800 too...but my rear housing is large enough, it's the factory comp housing that does it.

 

17 minutes ago, Birds said:

There are ways around the small turbo posing a hot side restriction, wastegate setup, rearhousing vs comp housing ratio etc.

Plenty of small turbos used on large engines just for a power boost - most manufacturers run a small turbo harder these days for more linear delivery.

My turbo chokes at 5800 too...but my rear housing is large enough, it's the factory comp housing that does it.

 

Yeah probably fine for street use, but for extended times of WOT i.e. the track it wont be good for the engine.

I'm sure Greg will post a dyno graph of his old setup of how atrocious it was

 

Dyno%20GTX3076R%20-%20GTX3582R%20Power.j

The bottom line is the GTX3076R
Note: Car is auto. There is a known (and measured, I has all the sensors) 10% loss through the torque converter in the above graph. So when I say "400kw" I have adjusted that to manual land.

This was at 22psi, on both turbos.. (with vct off/broken at the time)
Point being I doubt many people would keep running the GTX3076R if their topend looked like that on the dyno.

1 hour ago, blah_blah said:

Yeah probably fine for street use, but for extended times of WOT i.e. the track it wont be good for the engine.

I'm sure Greg will post a dyno graph of his old setup of how atrocious it was

 

Track is a different ballgame, however you could still short shift there...if you have a wide midrange powerband you don't need to wring the engine out to make it perform

No different to a large displacement V8 maxing out at 5500-6000rpm, it doesn't need an 8000rpm top end cause torque to boot down low and mid

1 hour ago, Kinkstaah said:

Dyno%20GTX3076R%20-%20GTX3582R%20Power.j

The bottom line is the GTX3076R
Note: Car is auto. There is a known (and measured, I has all the sensors) 10% loss through the torque converter in the above graph. So when I say "400kw" I have adjusted that to manual land.

This was at 22psi, on both turbos.. (with vct off/broken at the time)
Point being I doubt many people would keep running the GTX3076R if their topend looked like that on the dyno.

Top of the graph is 3582 I assume? 

1 hour ago, Kinkstaah said:

Dyno%20GTX3076R%20-%20GTX3582R%20Power.j

The bottom line is the GTX3076R
Note: Car is auto. There is a known (and measured, I has all the sensors) 10% loss through the torque converter in the above graph. So when I say "400kw" I have adjusted that to manual land.

This was at 22psi, on both turbos.. (with vct off/broken at the time)
Point being I doubt many people would keep running the GTX3076R if their topend looked like that on the dyno.

I don't actually see the problem here, besides engine heat (in which case see the below). Yes the turbo is maxing out but the engine is still producing its max power across a 2500rpm band. Smaller turbo is giving about 600rpm better response too. It's not so different to a naturally aspirated dyno graph, which is what happens when you pair a small turbo with a large engine - linear power delivery, falls over up top.

If power is tapering off then so too should boost to keep heat down, straight out the wastegate so as not to pose a restriction for engine breathing. A bigger rear end with the same comp housing I suspect would help this too.

Top is the 3582. This is from a couple of years ago now, the most updated graph is in the Dyno section. (and is 'better')
Point really was explaining why I went up a turbo size was logical at the time.

Since then yes, I'm happier to run less boost/bigger exhaust/better manifold/different exhaust which has all happened since then actually.

But my way of thinking (and Trents, and Scotty who was also there that day) was the standard motor has a rev limit of 7000-7500 functionally, and this thing is very upset at 6000, so it can't really be ideal. I didn't just change it because I have an insatiable lust for MORE POWERRRR for fake internet recognition.

I'd much rather run something less hard and utilize the rev range the motor has/should have. Just feels better than beating the daylights out of a turbo to within an inch of its life. (moreso, I have overspun one of the GTXs!) and short shifting it.


Just didn't seem like the best of plans.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
×
×
  • Create New...