Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, HEKT1K said:

Econobox grocery getter, must be auto

won't see much use so don't want to spend too much, thinking maybe $15k max

I was suitably impressed with the brand new Hyundai Accent my panelbeater lent me for 3 months, which is about 15k new from memory. Comfortable and practical in every way and it wasn't a complete slug with the CVT auto, which is one of the better I've driven. Very different cars to what Hyundai used to be. Not much to look at, but If I had the space one would be in my garage as a cheap daily.

That or a Kia as mentioned above...think they share platforms with the I series Hyundais. A mate just bought a Cerato as a daily and prefers it to the GTI and Skoda he had previously.

Econobox grocery getter, must be auto

won't see much use so don't want to spend too much, thinking maybe $15k max

 

With the first criteria I would have said to check out a fiesta st, but it's manual only.

 

Until you have driven one you won't understand just how good/fun they are, but don't expect to be winning drag races against 33s or fpvs, the SSS is an unknown though.

14 hours ago, Count Grantleyish said:

I did 12.6 with dying AFM's, rubbish BC coilovers and tune that makes more black smoke than diesel Golf. 

I still remember that night we went to the drags would of been early 2012 when my car was stock :D

Then we raced on the hwy after straight past po po lel.

I still remember that night we went to the drags would of been early 2012 when my car was stock [emoji3]
Then we raced on the hwy after straight past po po lel.


It was like mid-late 2011 or something.

That was proper poo moment haha.
22 hours ago, UNR33L said:

Have any of you fellas actually put a time down the 1/4? 

Greg/Birds/Toby? 

I know Hame did like a 12.6 or something which is still one of the better times I've seen for a street skyline with coilovers and hellaflush fitment 

I have been a few times, I did 11.9 on my old setup with AD08R's and an intercooler pipe blowing off half track because of course something like that would happen to me.

So it was a nice weird time of a 11.9 at 116mph with a 2.2s 60ft.
I went weekend before last to test and tune with the BW EFR and MT drag radials and went slower because I had even less grip cause it turns out the tyres I bought are 10 years old because of course they are  and my 60ft was 2.6.

My car only makes 320kw atm :P

If I was Toby, for simplicity's sake I would put the GTX3071 on. Simply because it bolts on. Saves time, saves money, will work 95% as well in all the scenarios that exist. The EFR can be "made" to fit, but who is making it fit? The one thing I learned fitting it is that it is NOT bolt on, even though everything "should be" things don't always line up, you have to move this, fabricate that, take 6 hours thinking "Where am I gonna run this line..." or "I dont like how this fits..." or "This is gonna get hot..."

Enjoy car. Do skidz. Do track events. Don't overcomplicate things. Don't chase other's results. Someone just made 413 KW On a 7163 (!!!) on a Golf R, which will make everyone sad at the traffic light grand prix. Someone out there will buy a new Huracan. Aim for fun, and what you want first then think of the simplest way to get there.

So hurr durr why didnt I just do that? Cause I had planned on changing the setup anyway, I wanted a much larger rear housing and a more flowy manifold which ruled out leaving things where they were. I had a GTX3076R on my car int he past, and it dropped/choked 150RWKW after 6k from peak power, so as I wanted less power, I needed to open up the rear end MASSIVELY and that's why I have the setup I have now.

2.8 and a flowed head is amazing for flow but it has to flow somewhere. Swapping to a GTX3076R was the same cost for me as going BW. I initially wanted to just go back to a GTX3076R with a larger rear housing, but doing it "properly" resulted in the BW being the same price once the GTX3582 was sold. Also someone please buy my GTX3582.


TLDR: Do as I say, not as I did, never ever do what Greg did.

  • Like 1

So what you're saying is you should buy my FPV then, it does 11.6 @ 126

I'll take your car + cash my way kthx

Why not put a $1500 barra in your 33 with the 3582 you got and be done? 

I did a 12.6 on my old 33 GTR actually at I think 110mph stock ECU/engine with exhaust basically.. never ran it after I got the mighty power FC in 

Edited by UNR33L
44 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

I have been a few times, I did 11.9 on my old setup with AD08R's and an intercooler pipe blowing off half track because of course something like that would happen to me.

So it was a nice weird time of a 11.9 at 116mph with a 2.2s 60ft.
I went weekend before last to test and tune with the BW EFR and MT drag radials and went slower because I had even less grip cause it turns out the tyres I bought are 10 years old because of course they are  and my 60ft was 2.6.

My car only makes 320kw atm :P

If I was Toby, for simplicity's sake I would put the GTX3071 on. Simply because it bolts on. Saves time, saves money, will work 95% as well in all the scenarios that exist. The EFR can be "made" to fit, but who is making it fit? The one thing I learned fitting it is that it is NOT bolt on, even though everything "should be" things don't always line up, you have to move this, fabricate that, take 6 hours thinking "Where am I gonna run this line..." or "I dont like how this fits..." or "This is gonna get hot..."

Enjoy car. Do skidz. Do track events. Don't overcomplicate things. Don't chase other's results. Someone just made 413 KW On a 7163 (!!!) on a Golf R, which will make everyone sad at the traffic light grand prix. Someone out there will buy a new Huracan. Aim for fun, and what you want first then think of the simplest way to get there.

So hurr durr why didnt I just do that? Cause I had planned on changing the setup anyway, I wanted a much larger rear housing and a more flowy manifold which ruled out leaving things where they were. I had a GTX3076R on my car int he past, and it dropped/choked 150RWKW after 6k from peak power, so as I wanted less power, I needed to open up the rear end MASSIVELY and that's why I have the setup I have now.

2.8 and a flowed head is amazing for flow but it has to flow somewhere. Swapping to a GTX3076R was the same cost for me as going BW. I initially wanted to just go back to a GTX3076R with a larger rear housing, but doing it "properly" resulted in the BW being the same price once the GTX3582 was sold. Also someone please buy my GTX3582.


TLDR: Do as I say, not as I did, never ever do what Greg did.

It's stories like this that make me glad my search for more power was limited to reading a couple of threads asking people what worked well and doing just that lol

Being a revolutionary in turbo setups or in greater life is typically done at great personal cost

  • Like 1
25 minutes ago, Count Grantleyish said:

And Barra cost $1500 now?

Decent $ I say.

For a turbo one yep. 

N/a one can be had for like $200 

I think you did a 12.something? can't remember. 

9 minutes ago, Birds said:

It's stories like this that make me glad my search for more power was limited to reading a couple of threads asking people what worked well and doing just that lol

Being a revolutionary in turbo setups or in greater life is typically done at great personal cost

Its stories like mine that generate the opinions that smart people listen to and benefit from :P

It's stories like this that make me glad my search for more power was limited to reading a couple of threads asking people what worked well and doing just that lol
Being a revolutionary in turbo setups or in greater life is typically done at great personal cost


Being one of the early 3l crowd. It seemed far easier and cheaper than it actually turned out to be.

Doing it again would keep the 25 and go a 3071 or 3076. Job done, solidly fast car, not a lot of $$.
For a turbo one yep. 
N/a one can be had for like $200 
I think you did a 12.something? can't remember. 


Wow, cheaper than rb25 these days.

I might have done a 12, it was long time ago.

Gonna take it to drags as soon as I get it back.
Run it against birds R? Or will that still be a while off after yours is sorted?


The ETA for BirdsR is 2050 so I guess I'll die by then.

Unless his mechanic do something amazing and I guess we'll ride together?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers)
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
×
×
  • Create New...