Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I thought it would be a good Idea to post one of these on here because I haven't seen anyone post anything about these turbos or anything related to this matter.

So right now my R32 GTST is undergoing work for the following parts:

TWISTED MOTION RB20DET GT2871r VER 1 Turbo

GODSPEED Forward facing Plenum

Tomei Outlet pipe to a 3" custom TurboBack

550cc Injectors

Boost Solenoid

Walbro 255 Fuel Pump

Tomei Fuel Pressure Regulator

ADAPTRONIC ECU tuned by XACT TUNING

So Far the plenum and turbo is going in and there were little things that I thought people should know going into this kind of budget build project:

1. The turbo is pretty awesome. For the price you can't beat what you get. I know it's a cheap turbo and people are going to say get a better turbo and whatnot, but I have a better plan rather than spending $$$ for a name brand turbo. So first off the turbo was 450$ and once the turbo starts to go I'm going to buy internal parts for it which is going to cost me around 300$.

As far as Install I'm having a 2" 90degree Cast aluminum Elbow Welded to where the stock elbow would be so that I don't have to deal with couplers.

2. The Intake Plenum is a tricky one for RB20s. Unless you have 1200$+ for a plazmaman/raw brokerage Intake plenum there really aren't much options for the RB20.

What I did was get a GODSPEED intake plenum. It was around 250$ on ebay, and once again I know people are going to bash for buying ebay parts, but this is a budget build. That and the GODSPEED plenum isn't that bad. The welds are extremely clean, and has ports for everything stock to be connected right up to it. ie. adaptable with the stock throttle body.

The only hiccups are the plenum's mounting bolts are blocked off so we had to drill it through so that the bolts can go in all the way. Apart from that so far there hasn't been any issues.

It should be done this weekend and next week I should be able to get this thing tuned with ADAPTRONIC which is one hell of an ECU for the price. Thank you XACT TUNING in AZ for hooking me up with the price that you did.

I'm going to post some pictures here soon, and Keep everyone posted on how this build goes! My Goal is 320WHPish. Wish me luck everyone!

Once it's all said and done I will most def let the RB20 Community know how it is and if it's worth it!

Edited by HanBear

An RB20 with an ebay turbo and a massive plenum like that, it's going to be a very laggy 300hp. But hey you knew what you were getting yourself into and seen to be happy with it so go for it.

Good choice ditching the SAFC for a real ECU, now you just have to do the same with the turbo ;)

  • Like 1

By the time you get the $450 turbo, $300 rebuild kit, and someone to weld the elbow on, its sounding like a $800+ excerise, +time off road to rebuild if it fails.

That's providing if the turbo fails parts don't go into the motor and kill everything.

Hypergear highflow can be had for under $900 (check current pricing). Proven results. Meets your goals. Bolt on simplicity.

Stock plenum would meet power goals, only real reason for a foward facing plenum is to make the bay look "neater" or reduce cooler pipe length. Can't remember ever seeing a performance gain from a FFP at that sort of power level on a rb20.

Fuel pressure regulator you don't need.

Tomei dump is nice, but not a "budget" option.

Your ecu is a popular choice and seems pretty well supported.

When I was looking at modding my RB20, I basically read the RB20 dyno results thread, hypergear thread, and kando thread. Absolute wealth of knowledge out there, from people who have done the same thing you want to do.

But looks like you've already got the parts, so best of luck.

By the time you get the $450 turbo, $300 rebuild kit, and someone to weld the elbow on, its sounding like a $800+ excerise, +time off road to rebuild if it fails.

That's providing if the turbo fails parts don't go into the motor and kill everything.

Hypergear highflow can be had for under $900 (check current pricing). Proven results. Meets your goals. Bolt on simplicity.

^^^^^ This. Is. What. I. Was. Going. To. Say.

  • Like 1

As far as turbo I couldn't really find one that didn't cost under 1200 bucks new. I'm relatively new to the skyline and I found one that was pretty cheap and pretty good. I've seen the same turbo on some sr and rb series engine at the shop I bought it from. It's pretty good. That and building the internals and making a cheap hybrid I thought was a pretty good idea. Lol.

As far as the Tomei outlet pipe I got it for a steal of a deal so I couldn't let that down.

I've never head of hybrid gear highflow :(.

And me and my buddy are doing all the work. Welding and what not. He's a really good welder and he's already done the work on other turbos with welding on elbows so it's not going to cost me much.

After this I'm going to upgrade to a top mounted turbo in the future with a new manifold and what not. Thought this would be a fun thing to try!! :D

Thank you all for your inputs and I will most def keep all of you posted and pictures will come soon. As well as Dyno sheets and what not.

For the fuel pressure reg I thought I would need one and I thinks it's always good to have one. Lol.

Here's a little update. I'm still waiting for parts so at least got the plenum side done. Big thanks to my buddy cliff @rukigarage for helping me out.

I definitely like the way the forward facing plenum looks. :D once the rest of the parts arrive I should be able to install and Dyno next week sometime. :D!! I'll post the Dyno sheets and more updates and give you guys a more in depth of everything with pics.

post-139509-14389687997213_thumb.jpg

Update #3

So my buddy Cliff did some fabrication for me for the ic piping in the intake side. And it looks so dope. :D

He also did some fab work on the intake itself. All in all I'm extremely happy with it. Next is the td06 going in!!!

So I decided to go with a td06 20g. It get in tomorrow and everything should be almost ready for tune.

Adaptronic and 550cc injectors next!

post-139509-14394386681473_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Update #4 so the cold side ended up really nicely thanks to cliff @ RŪKĪGARAGE. All the welding came out pretty damn clean. And the turbo went in. Now all we have left is to connect all the lines, weld the 90degree elbow onto the turbo and tune it!!

post-139509-14398271670594_thumb.jpgpost-139509-14398271961706_thumb.jpgpost-139509-14398272252939_thumb.jpg

post-139509-14398273220183_thumb.jpg

Update #5

So everything is installed and I drove it around not tuned and it runs really smoothly. I'm going to get it tuned with adaptronic/550cc injectors/boost solenoid. I will post Dyno sheets tomorrow!!!!!

Edited by HanBear
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
×
×
  • Create New...