Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK I appreciate your difficulties in getting to the tuner but rest assured cam timing can make 100hp difference in some cases. Tuning is not just about timing. There are half a dozen or more variables and the tuner has to change one at a at a time so that he knows what is making a difference and then change another variable which may affect the first etc. .. hence the many hours involved. If you know a good tuner can you not drive down at 4.30am give him the car for a day (say a Friday) and get him to check the cold start on Saturday morning and then drive home? Whatever it takes it has to be done properly.

Problem being I don't. The last two have been a waste of time and money.

Think I will give the local bloke a go. He is all good, just that there aren't many GT-R's around here and I wanted to short cut the learning process by having someone who has done 100 of them do the job.

Cold start is about the only thing that is fine. So a win there.

Hope not and hope so at the same time. May just be the cam gear bolts have come loose. Appears to be a bit of a theme lately. Top nut on the drop link on the front sway bar unwound itself and the link fell out of its hole. Hello oversteer.

Anyway cars goes crackle crackle pop pop on the over run.

To me your graph in the initial post looks VERY responsive for dash 5's, the boost plots in your latest post seem to confirm this.

Maybe the timing belt has skipped a tooth or 2?

Who tunes your car? Surely worth a call to Simon's tuner given the reliability and power he has gotten from all his ...um well utilised R32s :)

Who tunes your car? Surely worth a call to Simon's tuner given the reliability and power he has gotten from all his ...um well utilised R32s :)

Well Ill ask him on the weekend but it is such a balls ache being messed about by Perth tunas that I am happy given the local bloke a go. He knows his stuff just doesnt get so many 26's. 10 hp aint going to get me near Simons things output plus he has all the gearboxes anyway.

If I can gear near 500 that will be a pretty good result. Working on the assumption the cam timing has shifted since it was tuned.

Edited by djr81

Well Ill ask him on the weekend but it is such a balls ache being messed about by Perth tunas that I am happy given the local bloke a go. He knows his stuff just doesnt get so many 26's. 10 hp aint going to get me near Simons things output plus he has all the gearboxes anyway.

If I can gear near 500 that will be a pretty good result. Working on the assumption the cam timing has shifted since it was tuned.

Haha, as of earlier this week I'm back up to 5 spare gearboxes... Was running low after breaking 2 in 2 days :)

With the boost controller fixed it now makes boost low in the range - so the number at 4000rpm is 270rwhp (With -5's so beat that with a stick) instead of 200. The tuna said it was fairly insensitive to ignition advance and had phased the cams as best he could.

Given the torque output is more useful further up the rev range what would people recommend for bigger cams? It has a 256 degree inlet and 252 degree exhaust.

post-5134-0-72021000-1439359765_thumb.jpg

Everyone has already said this but you don't seem to want to do it. Take it to a reputable tuner who knows nissans/rb26's. If you make that $1k a day then f**k me you can afford to take it down to Perth.

A lot of tuning shops offer a car service for $55 a day. Or just go down there early and make a day of it?

Wrong/poor tune can end badly. I drive a lowly old GTST and I won't let the 'local bloke' touch my car!

Dont even worry. What's the wortst thats going to happen...

Probably a bunch of unhelpful suggestions get posted.

Looked on the rb26 dyno thread there are two -5 poncam posts neither of which have printouts. Thinking my old chart may have been with a stuffed boost controller so cannot gauge the response from personal experience.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
    • You can probably scrub the rust with a toothbrush or something. After you get the rust off flush well with water to neutralize and you will probably want to also use a fuel tank sealer to keep it from rusting again.
    • The sodium citrate solution is designed to buffer the citric acid to keep it from attacking metal quite so much, the guy that came up with that recipe did a ton of testing on how much metal loss occurs over time and it's nothing crazy unless you forget about it for months:   
×
×
  • Create New...