Jump to content
SAU Community

Will An Oem Turbo Pipe From An R33 Or 34 Fit An R32?

GSX-R35

By GSX-R35,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GSX-R35 Community Regular

GSX-R35

Posted
Posted

Hello everyone. I'm currently delving into the stuff I need to do to fit an ARC airbox into my R32 here in the US (I like the look versus pod filters - don't flame me please lol). My car appears to currently have an HKS piping kit for both the turbo and intake sides which has a different shape from the OEM piping. Since Skyline parts are relatively scarce here in the US if I find used OEM turbo piping it might be from an R33 or R34 instead of an R32 so will the piping from a different generation RB26 fit an R32? From pictures it looks like the piping is the same since the it's the same basic engine but of course I don't have an R33 or R34 to compare since they're not legal yet here in the US lol.

Thanks in advance for your help.

GSX-R35 Community Regular

GSX-R35

Posted
  • Author
Posted

They're all the same.

Airbox's are not, obviously but the manifolds, "twin turbo pipe" and all the other bits and bobs are.

That's what I assumed so I've been looking around for R32-specific intake piping but figured I could get the turbo side piping from another generation RB26 in case I found someone getting rid of them. Thanks for the confirmation!

GSX-R35 Community Regular

GSX-R35

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Why not just fabricate? It's only very very simple boilermaking work after all.

I myself don't have those kinds of skills unfortunately - and what I want to do is return the OEM "Twin Turbo" pipe because I like the look of it so that part I need to source even if I had the skills. I was thinking of asking a friend about fabricating hardpipes to replace the rubber OEM connectors but first I need to get the OEM pipes to help him determine how everything needs to be shaped.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

I wasn't necessarily suggesting that you do the welding yourself. But when it is hard to find certain brand name kit bits that are in reality nothing more than some fabbed up pipe and rubber joiners, there's no point in stressing over finding them when you need them and paying the right coin for them when something made from scratch will do the job just as well. The twin turbo pipe is a whole 'nother thing - but even then I wouldn't be fitting one back onto an RB26 unless it had been modified. Google up the divider mod for those.

sneakey pete Grand Master

sneakey pete

Posted
Posted

Actually, from memory there is a difference between R32 and R33, however I think it is minor and in the rubber elbow. I did take a photo of my R32 one and another R33 one i got but didn't use (polished) that seemed to be different, but i can't access that photo for a while.

Twin turbo pipe shouldn't be hard to find, rear turbo factory up pipe might be harder, that being said most kits keep the stock one? so you might not need it. For the rubber pipe between i'd just got a new one direct from Nissan Japan via site like amayama or similar, as most are getting rather old and perished by now anyway. Job done.

My personal preference is for a factory airbox though, just picked one up for myself that i'll install in the coming while.

r32-25t Grand Master

r32-25t

Posted
Posted

The rubber pipes that go from the body to the engine are shorter and different shape on the r33/r34 then they are on r32, but the twin turbo pipe and etc are all the same

djvoodoo Experienced

djvoodoo

Posted
Posted

Actually, they are different in length.

I know first hand.

I have a 34R, and purchased an R32 twin turbo pipe to do the pipe mod. 32R pipe is about an inch longer from tail to tip than the 34

GSX-R35 Community Regular

GSX-R35

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I wasn't necessarily suggesting that you do the welding yourself. But when it is hard to find certain brand name kit bits that are in reality nothing more than some fabbed up pipe and rubber joiners, there's no point in stressing over finding them when you need them and paying the right coin for them when something made from scratch will do the job just as well. The twin turbo pipe is a whole 'nother thing - but even then I wouldn't be fitting one back onto an RB26 unless it had been modified. Google up the divider mod for those.

I read about the divider mod on a Canadian website so that was in the plans - if I can ever find an OEM turbo pipe lol.

Actually, they are different in length.

I know first hand.

I have a 34R, and purchased an R32 twin turbo pipe to do the pipe mod. 32R pipe is about an inch longer from tail to tip than the 34

Dang, that sucks. Makes the search a bit harder. Oh well, at least I didn't buy something only to find out I paid through the nose for something useless. Skyline parts are like hen's teeth right now in the US since the cars just started being legal for import.

djvoodoo Experienced

djvoodoo

Posted
Posted

I read about the divider mod on a Canadian website so that was in the plans - if I can ever find an OEM turbo pipe lol.

Dang, that sucks. Makes the search a bit harder. Oh well, at least I didn't buy something only to find out I paid through the nose for something useless. Skyline parts are like hen's teeth right now in the US since the cars just started being legal for import.

Don't get me wrong, it still fits perfectly fine, but using the 32 pipe on the 34 meant i had to squeeze the rubber hosing a bit, and the fitment is very tight. So i'm guessing it will be the opposite for your car.

I was surprised too. I put them side by side and was like, huh, well that's interesting.

GSX-R35 Community Regular

GSX-R35

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Don't get me wrong, it still fits perfectly fine, but using the 32 pipe on the 34 meant i had to squeeze the rubber hosing a bit, and the fitment is very tight. So i'm guessing it will be the opposite for your car.

I was surprised too. I put them side by side and was like, huh, well that's interesting.

Well that's good at least. Thanks for the clarification.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...