Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well,

7 months ago I was made an offer on my R33 GTR that I could not turn down! After watching her been towed away I had made the decision to put the profits back into the house.....well that's what I told myself I was gonna do!!! One of my good mates had made the decision not to continue on in the car seen, so after some negotiating we made an offer on what you see here. To start with most of the car was built by the previous owner, how ever some loss of interested saw it go a little south. Determined to have a car for this years powercruise I set myself that challenge to get this bad boy back up to scratch....

Car is running a built Rb26/30 and 300zx 4spd built box with a 5000rpm stall converter + transbreak

Morning of picker the car up

1ruvcl.jpg

Started straight away with tearing it down

15hk5ys.jpg

The car came with a few extra goodies

2wd672d.jpg

Started stripping the car and cleaning the enigne bay for paint

21bjhv7.jpg

2mrbihf.jpg

Chose the same colour as my new Jeep so it would match while towing :)

mvjhus.jpg

Engine bay now painted

vgqkn.jpg

2udvvav.jpg

Painted the engine covers at the same time

302ru2t.jpg

2wd9j02.jpg

Decided to open the motor up and have a look around. Good thing we did as we found some bearing wear. All new bearings and main studs fitted.

11rreht.jpg

While we were there fitted a tomei oil pump, Kulig Engineering crank trigger kit and customer enlarged sump and ATI balancer

2v1ry4p.jpg

2uj49ih.jpg

k4fceg.jpg

Once the engine bay was finished being painted we moved onto the new turbo, manifold and wastegate for the car

33k7reb.jpg

though about a GTX but decided we didnt need it

1zq4tu0.jpg

Moved onto the intercooler piping and started painting everything we could in black

mmbma9.jpg

20h9bww.jpg

Made up a new air intake

2cofzf4.jpg

9asqy1.jpg

97urzn.jpg

A before and after transformation

nh1fk8.jpg

Decided to add some carbon fibre to break the black and grey up

30db6gk.jpg

Need to try and fit some 275's under it

149778p.jpg

Well after playing around the inside I had to pay the outside some attention so we gave her a quite paint over a weekend

2rrql1z.jpg

28milus.jpg

On our way to get her tuned

29aqtqb.jpg

After driver 3 1/2 hours from Brisbane to Hervey Bay so Brad at Turning Point could get his tune on, dropped the car off and left it in Brads hands to get her sorted. The boys did come into some issues with the car and we had changed a few things from previous but this was to be expected. The car was running 1000cc sard injectors witch were swapped out for some bosch 1700s that I had but unfortunately they didnt want to play ball. After chagning all the plugs etc for the bosch injectors we had to change them back to the 1000's. On E85 the car stands at 630rwhp which should be nice to drive with the built 4spd 300zx box behind her!!!

Will post some video's of the tune once I have some..

Edited by johnbarry88
  • Like 8

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity.
    • 100% the factory sender is tapered, that is how it seals (well, that and teflon paste or tape)
    • Thanks folks - I've saved a few links and I'll have to think of potential cable/adapters/buying fittings. First step will be seeing if I can turn the curren abortion of a port into something usable, then get all BSPT'y on it. I did attempt to look at the OEM sender male end to see if it IS tapered because as mentioned you should be able to tell by looking at it... well, I don't know if I can. If I had to guess it looks like *maybe* 0.25 of a mm skinnier at the bottom of the thread compared to where the thread starts. So if it is tapered it's pretty slight - Or all the examples of BSPT vs BSPP are exaggerated for effect in their taper size.
    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
×
×
  • Create New...