Track Day

[muzziak]

If you've bought one for a GTS-t then it will just drop in

here's a guide I wrote a while back

http://www.trak-life.com/diy-nissan-skyline-radiator-replacement-upgrade/

How much clearance did you have when you put the 42mm in ? Enough for a 52mm or just stick to 42 ?

Thanks

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

about 2cm from the top of the shroud to the fan.. with the 52/3mm radiators people usually grind down the flat part of the fan shroud as that contacts with the fan at high RPM

pic for reference, see that flat area at the top of the shroud, just trim that off and you'll be fine using a thicker radiator...

[muzziak]

Hmm, well the car isn't being tracked a lot, just on the odd occasion. Reckon the 42mm should do fine ?

[muzziak]

Also what do you think of running no thermostat on the track ?

[niZmO_Man]

Also what do you think of running no thermostat on the track ?

Why do you want to remove it? No benefit.

[muzziak]

Thought it may help in cooling if everything's constantly flowing, but if not may as well leave it.

[R31 drift pig]

Cooling system in my 33 is as follows -

ASI aluminium radiator (52mm I think, car isn't here so can't check), Nismo thermostat, GKTech fan with adapter, stock clutch hub and fan shroud, silicone hoses and nulon red coolant. I never see high temps on track, Simple but very effective.

Trust oil cooler and relocation kit, stock rb25 heat exchanger removed and replaced with RB20 Filter mount. Oil temps come up and stay rock solid all day. Also adds probably a litre at least to the oil system, and i add a bit more. Now the engine is coming out, Ill probably add an enlarged gated sump as well. Oil temps are more critical than coolant temps IMO.

7 row power steering cooler with 6an lines. I boiled my power steering fluid previously, now no issues a all.

Car gets hammered every time i drive it, and I don't worry about temps at all.

Racepak has warning lights etc set, but I just drive as hard as i can. Just the concrete walls i need to watch out for.

[R31 drift pig]

And as for other stuff needed,

• check all your other fluids (GBOX/diff/Power steering)
• a decent set of pads and fluid, I use Project Mu HC+ pads all round, RDA slotted/dimpled rotors, braided lines and Motul RBF600 fluid and I really like it.
• Check your tyres, may need a better set than what you have now. otherwise check pressures etc.
• Alignment - may need a more aggressive alignment.
• a basic set of tools - socket set/spanners/screwdrivers etc. Anything more severe than that usually means going home on a trailer.
• Maybe have a trailer organised to come get you if need be, or preferably take your car out on a trailer just incase the worst should happen.
• Remember to have fun - you won't go braking lap record on your first time out, so learn as much as you can, get to know other people out there, ask questions, but above all, have fun.

[muzziak]

Oh geez, that's quite comprehensive. The main thing I'm worried about atm is probably the oil, I don't have a cooler or a oil temp gauge. But I'm changing my radiator to a 42mm alloy one, radiator hoses, new coolant, new pads, machining discs, new brake fluid, overfilling engine oil and just checking all the rest

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

need a thermostat, if you remove the thermostat you car will run like shit

[R31 drift pig]

Oh geez, that's quite comprehensive. The main thing I'm worried about atm is probably the oil, I don't have a cooler or a oil temp gauge. But I'm changing my radiator to a 42mm alloy one, radiator hoses, new coolant, new pads, machining discs, new brake fluid, overfilling engine oil and just checking all the rest

Ya know, add an oil temp gauge if you can and you should be right for the day. May as well add a coolant temp gauge while you're at it. But you could probably suffice without it, just run a cool down lap every second lap.

You could also add a seat and a harness to the list, but once you start... its hard to stop. Do what you can before the day, and go out and have some fun.

Remember to use a TYPE A coolant in the radiator. I use nulon red.

Edited September 20, 2015 by R31 drift pig

[muzziak]

Yes.

More oil = less chance of starvation

Sorry to bring this thread up again, some people have been saying too much oil can cause hydro lock and that tripped me out. I put 5L all up, it is above the Full line, but is it too much or ?

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

how would that even be remotely possible? who told you that?

[Ben C34]

Some people are retarded.

[djvoodoo]

Sorry to bring this thread up again, some people have been saying too much oil can cause hydro lock and that tripped me out. I put 5L all up, it is above the Full line, but is it too much or ?

Hahaha. Hydrolock is basically a motor breathing in water into the cylinders instead of air...............

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Some people are retarded.

Honda and 86 owners

[muzziak]

lol I tried telling him that but he was persistent. I've shown him the responses and he has shut up now

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

does he own a Honda or 86 or BRZ?

[AMR33]

Too much oil does not cause hydrolock. Its called 'Hydro' as it refers to water. Too much oil can cause other problems but not hydrolock. When people say over fill oil, they're not saying pour in an extra 5L. They are simply saying to add 500ml or so as you will burn oil on the track. Take a 1-2L bottle spare and keep an eye on oil after each run. Top up as required.

[Hadouken]

No. We do not suggest you to overfill your sump because "it will burn oil".

We advise overfilling so that when you corner hard you do not loose oil pressure because all the oil is all of a sudden up the side of the sump