Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is it just me or has this thread gone full circle a few times?

The best way to avoid shutter from an aftermarket bov is to tune to match or keep the stock one and avoid the shutter, is that pretty much where we have landed on this?

  • Like 2

I think that is the general consensus. Taking steps to ensure you don't have boost or vacuum leaks and checking for restrictìon pill or using proper hose that doesn't "suck in" may help but in the end it's use stock, a good adjustable one or get a tune ?

Edited by Reaperblitz

Is it just me or has this thread gone full circle a few times?

The best way to avoid shutter from an aftermarket bov is to tune to match or keep the stock one and avoid the shutter, is that pretty much where we have landed on this?

nah. but. what about 'insert something irrelevant'

Yer, well my Turbosmart Kompact still shudders with the soft spring and I'm pretty sure it's opening on boost too.

Seem to have varying spool / boost levels

There was better spool with the standard spring.

The shudder is on pigeon sound, which means the BOV ain't releasing enough at low boost

The FV series valves are supposed to open more on vacuum than single spring types.

Worth trying , especially if it reduces strain on the shaft, and stops me spilling my coffee.

These are selling for over $400 from some sellers.

Scored one for $145

Just waiting on a 29mm recirc adapter from Nengun.

The trumpets unscrew and the adapters fit all three models.

See the fake has silver retainer ring on the base.

I also noticed the Greddy sticker is shit on the fake too.

The spring is way harder to push in and you can hear it grind when it travels.

I sent pics to Greddy, they confirmed it was a fake.

Looking inside the genuine one, the difference in quality is huge.

See how it goes.

post-25026-0-16278900-1450420872_thumb.jpg

Edited by conan7772

Yer, well my Turbosmart Kompact still shudders with the soft spring and I'm pretty sure it's opening on boost too.

Seem to have varying spool / boost levels

There was better spool with the standard spring.

The shudder is on pigeon sound, which means the BOV ain't releasing enough at low boost

The FV series valves are supposed to open more on vacuum than single spring types.

Worth trying , especially if it reduces strain on the shaft, and stops me spilling my coffee.

These are selling for over $400 from some sellers.

Scored one for $145

Just waiting on a 29mm recirc adapter from Nengun.

The trumpets unscrew and the adapters fit all three models.

See the fake has silver retainer ring on the base.

I also noticed the Greddy sticker is shit on the fake too.

The spring is way harder to push in and you can hear it grind when it travels.

I sent pics to Greddy, they confirmed it was a fake.

Looking inside the genuine one, the difference in quality is huge.

See how it goes.

either fit stock back or tune the car, otherwise you will always get pigeon sound whatever you use which brand BOV/soft spring

also if you can develop some electric solenoid valve controlled BOV like modern VW/Audi/BMW/Benz, you can also get rid of the pigeon sound

Edited by YangLIU

My suggestion, block the kent off and see what the response is like. It is a good way to see what the boost is actually doing too. Do you have a good boost gauge? The only time I have seen shuddering is when the car is running over 20psi untuned.

Mutt,

The Nissan adapter faces the return either up or down.

Meaning I'll need an elbow off the bov, down hits the engine, up bonnet won't close.

Haven't dry fitted yet but it doesn't look good.

I'll have to make my own adapter I think like this one.

post-25026-0-14323300-1450944966_thumb.jpg

post-25026-0-72403700-1450947862_thumb.jpg

Edited by conan7772

I just fitted a stock M35 BOV into a 33gtst, bolts straight in, so I have no idea what's going on there...

The only car I have seen where I couldn't get rid of the juddering was actually running 21psi due to having a 1 bar actuator and still running the stock bleed circuit. What boost does it run on a big uphill stomp? If it's too much that will be your answer. the stock ecu is in protection mode and dumping fuel.

It mostly shudders when I back off at 3-5 psi

Here's the adapter I have.

It puts the vent up or down, not to the side where it needs to be.

Nengun sell one for the RB25DET with all the holes in line.

post-25026-0-23377400-1451023974_thumb.jpg

Edited by conan7772

Yeah that is defiantly the wrong adapter plat you just need one where all the blots holes are in a strait line. Best look at your bov and where the bolt holes are and do some research into a suitable adapter

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What bedding in procedure did you use?   When you say stutter, what exactly do you mean? Like it feels like someone letting go of the brakes momentarily and regrabbing them again to get you to stop? Re-reading your post, and that is what it kind of makes me think you're explaining, like theres a little bit of a jolt, likely just as you're reaching a stop. I've only had this issue once. And if its caused by what caused mine, you will want to get the car up on stands again and check it over. Mine was a case of a caliper mounting bolt coming out and letting the caliper rotate on the other remaining bolt and gave play in a wheel as it came to a stop. But not every stop either!
    • Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - then entered a hotlap with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - hopefully the motor and other things are OK but yet to be seen too. There is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it Effort doesnt win you races though     Apparently this is motorsport !  
    • Thanks, will do that.  Thankfully they still feel great.
    • Yeah man, absolutely. You can try pushing me all the way in swapping the R34 for an E9x M3 
    • It's almost certainly going to be some amount of pads compound transfer onto the rotors. It will probably go away after you've run them for a bit. If not, pull it all out, lightly sand the rotors, scuff the pads, and rebed.
×
×
  • Create New...