Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've been looking at different ways to get myself an R34 GT-R the last few months after selling my R33 GTS-4 while sorting out funds. My options seem to be either buy locally by private sale, or dealership (seems hard to find this way), or through importing (have been looking at rough quotes from iron chef, and genuine imports in NSW, and carizma, and at previous 34 auctions on prestige Motorsport in WA).

Buying locally seems to be much higher in price, and more so through dealerships that stock imports, may have questionable condition, history, and kms, while importing seems a bit more cheaper (more money for mods) if I am patient, which I'm fine with.

Just wanted some more up to date feedback than what I've found on the forums so far. I'm not too fussy on the type of GT-R, I'd love a midnight purple II though but am open to other colors, not fussy on kms (120,000kms would be fine for example), just has to be in a normal condition and fairly stock.

Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated, as I've never imported before. I've only bought my last two R33's as the second owner in Aus. Thanks!

If you're buying a GTR that's already landed in Aust I'd preferably buy one through a car club on Fb or SAU itself. If a member here doesn't wish to fix up problems, he's more likely to sell it through gumtree or carsales.

If you're trying to source it from Japan, your importer will try and procure one from private treaty or at an auction house. Some auction houses attract better or poorer/cheaper cars than others. Some importers may have a man on the ground to do a physical inspection as well as pore over the auction sheet. Some Japanese owners may set too high a reserve and the car may get passed in only to reappear a couple of weeks later.

Doing your maths:- Add about AUD$12,000 to your Yen Bidding Limit and then compare with what you can procure here in Aust.

Well, you do get to look at the car in person if you go local, but so many of the local ones are complete rubbish. Odometer windbacks, accident damage, other issues. And most sellers (particularly dealers), tend to deny having the import paperwork with the car. If you import, it's cheaper, you get more choice, and you get the paperwork with it. (Assuming you go with a proper importer like Iron Chef or J-Spec).

+1 for importing.

I guess it all depends on what you find, but as Terry said the SAU members who sell their cars do look after their cars and are more genuine when it comes to these things.

I was looking to import one myself however I really wanted to see the car in flesh. I've found the car and I just put a deposit on a 2000 34-Vspec, which has done 67,000 (auction sheet 3.5 and de-reg cert - proving the kms) Nice mods and has been going to RacePace since 2008 for mods and servicing.

Just a matter of finding the right one - take your time and I'm sure you can find something local.

Thanks for all the great advice guys, I will definitely look on SAU for any that catch my eye and at a good price, and will probably write off carsales/gumtree and dealerships as an option just due to not being able to trust their history unless they have full paperwork like dereg kms and service history.

As for importing I will most likely go through iron chef to try look for one at a good price seeing as I'm not really in a hurry to get one, I have a japan trip next month I'm saving for but will use that to find some 34R parts while I'm there. If I find an R at a steal of a price it'll be worth the wait. Iron chefs rep is also really good from what I've read on the forums, plus my own contact with them was really friendly

Hi OP,

I speak from experience for this one. I have imported a GTR specifically but I have gone through the process.

You won't get a great indicative pricing on how much it'll cost you landed and complied. There are a lot of things that come into play.

It also depends on how much you're willing to spend here. You won't be able to feel the car, nor test it. All you've got are a couple dozen pictures, an auction sheet and the company you have hired to help you with the process. Honestly though, you might find that it can be a hit and miss situation, you'll find awesome cars, bid too low and lose it to another buyer or bid too high for a car that doesn't have all the goodies you wanted in the first place.

If you have a good idea of what you exactly want then a company like Iron Chef Imports etc can help you find something equivalent or close to it. Especially for a GTR which doesn't come around too often, you might spend months looking for one that will suit you.

Then after you pick your car, you'll have to go through the import and compliance process which can take a month or two as well, depending on the amount of work that needs to be done to the car and the RAWS queue. During the compliance stage, the car has to be returned to stock for inspection so this may set you back some dollars if the compliance shop isn't well equipped etc. Once again, if you find a reputable company for imports I'm sure this won't be too much of a problem.

All in all, you pay for what you get most of the time. If an R34 GTR cost you $35k to import then something is definitely wrong with the car, whether it be R/RA conditioned or just mechanically crap. Find a reputable agent to help you import, one that has the right contacts for what you're trying to import and you'll be fine!

Good luck!

I imported one a few months ago through J-Spec. I think I was a little more specific than you (I wanted blue, under 60,000km, had to be V-Spec or better and grade 4 or better, preferably 4.5).

Long story short I found exactly what I wanted, blue grade 4.5 V-Spec with 37,000 original km's complete with paperwork and entire service history since new. It cost me about $56k inclusive of everything except registration/insurance. The dollar was much stronger vs the yen when I bought though, from memory I got around 95 yen per Aussie $. Either way, if that same car were selling locally the person would probably be asking 65k+ (judging by what's on car sales now).

Oh and it's almost completely stock, including the original factory tyres on the original rims. Lol. Safe to say I'd import again no worries.

  • Like 1

You can't use recent auction sales or landed prices in AUD as any sort of guide, the exchange rate has dropped by 15% in the last 2 months. Simply put, even if you can find a 35,000 R34 you will have to pay more like 45,000 for it this now.

At the moment, every car in the country came in under a much better exchange rate, so we are probably in one of those unusual times where you will get better value locally than importing.

Thurrzor, you have to be very careful with the lower grade cars (3.5 for example). There is an enormous condition gap between a 3.5, 4 and 4.5 and remember it's generally down to the inspectors opinion. When I was buying, I saw a V-Spec II with 18,000 genuine KM that was rated grade 4, however it had so much rust that it wouldn't have passed compliance here in Aus, rendering the car useless and unregisterable.

A lot of inspectors at auction houses won't pay attention or comment on rust. You'll find that any good importer like iron chef or j-spec will simply tell you they won't bid on a car with those sorts of issues regardless how much you beg. I can't imagine anything worse than getting a grade 3.5 car here that won't comply to Australian standards, even if you only paid 25 - 35k.

Edited by ADP91

Hmm you're right ADP91, I'd be pretty sad if I had found out my car was full of rust and couldn't be complied here after dropping all that money. The fact that so many different people say that iron chef are super picky on your behalf sounds really reassuring, so they will be my pick. Your GT-R sounds amazing btw!

Knowing that previous GT-R sales have been going when the dollar was high also gives me and indication of how less I'll get compared to others now that the dollar is low atm, so I'd be paying almost the same as ones here but might get the paperwork and quality through importing.

There is no doubt in my mind that importing is the better option if you're after quality and variety. My advice is to spend the money and get the best possible car, the higher your budget the less time it takes to find 'the one' because your options will be more open. In terms of paperwork and history, some will have it and some won't. Again, the more expensive (and clean) the car is, the higher the chance it has been properly looked after with books. I'd say most 4.5 rated cars would come with a good amount of paperwork (that's probably part of the reason they get a 4.5 rating), I even got 2 spare keys which I thought was cool.

And yeah, J-Spec or Iron Chef would be perfect. I say J-Spec because I used them and the car speaks for itself.

Edited by ADP91

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...