Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone done a 4.11 final drive on their gtr34? What needs to be done for the swap?

The car is gtr34 vspec with A-LSD, and I have bought R32's 4.11 front and rear crown and pinion, anything else needs to be installed for the job?

driveshaft, axle, transfer case, etc??

thanks in advance for help.

Al long as you can get through the gears quickly

Even with stock box stock ratios on the R34 with 300+kw first is nearly useless and still need to grab 5th down the quater, 2nd gear with 3.55s is just that little bit to tall but with enough revs and enough hating of clutch can be luanched in 2nd

Personally I would spend the money on changing the diff gears on getting more power

  • 2 weeks later...

ask piggaz he went from a-lsd to mechanical in his r33, I know the diff and half shafts needed to be changed but not sure what else had to be done

But if the plan is to keep the a-lsd in place, just replace the crown wheel and pinions and enjoy your new shorter ratios

ask piggaz he went from a-lsd to mechanical in his r33, I know the diff and half shafts needed to be changed but not sure what else had to be done

But if the plan is to keep the a-lsd in place, just replace the crown wheel and pinions and enjoy your new shorter ratios

The A-LSD to a real diff isn't a set in stone rule Apparantly. Terry from Award said its a car by car thing. Mine I had to replace the shafts but that doesn't mean the very next car off the production line needs to. That's what he said anyway.

Doesn't really help :/.

I'm pretty certain, given how rare non-Vspec R34 diffs are, you can use an R33 non-Vspec but there's more involved

not much more involved just changing the bolt size and length for the drive shafts. I'm using gtr33 non v spec diff but with 4.3 ratio... Edited by QUP29

ask piggaz he went from a-lsd to mechanical in his r33, I know the diff and half shafts needed to be changed but not sure what else had to be done

But if the plan is to keep the a-lsd in place, just replace the crown wheel and pinions and enjoy your new shorter ratios

wouldnt it be easier if u wanted to keep a-lsd at 4.11 ratio to swap with vspec 33?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...