Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I finally found a blue tooth adapter that will work with NDS111 on my V36 skyline Great!! now I can find my problem, so I thought, no error codes.

I have a weird noise I've bee trying to diagnose for about 2 months now. It's a clicking/ticking noise at low speed very light throttle and only lasts 1-2 seconds. Does anyo9ne know what this could be? It sounds like lifter ticking but it happens intermittently when the car is warm. There are no error codes so I have to assume its not detonation as there is no det error code. My thoughts at the moment are o2 sensors. I tried to check out the o2 sensors on NDS111. I know on my 300zx you basically rev the car to 2000 then watch the values fly about all over the place incicaing the car is adjusting the values. However on the NDS111 I'm not sure what readout is for the o2 sensors. I think it might be these, NB Sns2 b1 (something sensor 2 bank 1), NB Sns2 b2 (something sensor 2 bank 2), WB Sns b1 (something sensor bank 1), WB Sns b2 (something sensor bank 2) Are these the 4 oxygen sensors? If they are two of them are reading all over the place and the other two sensors are sitting at about 0.3. I'll do a screen shot soon.

Can anyone send me a link or document for all the base settings for example, what is the TPS setting closed throttle what are all the other setting I should be seeing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460300-nissan-data-scan-111/
Share on other sites

WB is the wideband or AFR sensor, these are used by the ECU to adjust short term fuel mix, there is one for each bank.

The NB are narrow band sensors and are generally only used to confirm the cats are working, they aren't used for tuning at all, but they will throw a CEL if they detect issues with the cat function.

you should see them all fluctuate as you give some throttle input.

Edited by sonicii

WB is the wideband or AFR sensor, these are used by the ECU to adjust short term fuel mix, there is one for each bank.

The NB are narrow band sensors and are generally only used to confirm the cats are working, they aren't used for tuning at all, but they will throw a CEL if they detect issues with the cat function.

you should see them all fluctuate as you give some throttle input.

So I get good fluctuation on the WB and no movement on the NB. The NB sits at about 0.27/0.26 at idle. No change when revving. Took it for a drive and when I got back at some point the NB had changed to about 0.1/0.12.

Are my NB sensors playing up they don't fluctuate, we no where near the amount the WD fluctuates?

12072535_10154747352412524_2759610184115

Edited by 30ONA

something seems a bit out. they probably won't do anything when they are cold, but once up to working temp, a normal NB O2 sensor should rapidly change from 0V to 1V as O2 is measured in the exhaust gas. To sit at a constant 0.27V is not normal.

When you release the throttle from high RPM, the injectors shut off completely until the engine returns to about idle speed, so there is heaps on O2 in the exhaust during this time and you should see the WB figures hit about 3+ and the NB figures approach 1.0.

That said, if the NB sensors are faulty, you should be seeing a CEL and codes stored in the ECU. I am wondering if NDS3 isn't correctly reading this data, thus the unusual figures and no CEL.

I've graphed a log file of me driving round local streets.

The WB sensors seem to nearly match each other all the time.

The NB sensors seem to match most of the time but there are periods where there is 0.6volts difference between one bank and the other.

I'm really puzzled as to what is causing this 'pinging', and I don;t have the understanding to asses the data. Can someone help? Can ?I send someone a log file?

Or do I take it to a dyno?

Putting a name to the noise like pinging will lead everyone down the garden path I suspect.

What engine is in the car?

What fuel do you run?

What grade of oil is in the engine?

Have you tried disconnecting the cam solenoids to see if it's them causing the noise?

Does this ticking sound only happen about 1 min give or take after startup whether the engine is hot or cold? Eg if its ticking and you shut it off for a few seconds and start up again does it take another minute to start ticking again?

BTW please let us know exactly which Bluetooth dongle from jaycar that would be awesome

Not sure if v36 have a canister purge solenoid, but had one of these go on my VE. Started out intermittent but got more persistent over time.

Easiest way to test is simply unplugging the power to it.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=SHwqGKj2njw

http://www.samarins.com/glossary/purge-valve.html

Sorry for no reply about the Bluetooth. Yes I have the same one.

Woohoo picked up one of these bluetooth OBDII from Jaycar and it works great

http://www.jaycar.com.au/Automotive-%26-Mobile-Security/Car-Alarms,-Protection-%26-Accessories/Tracking-Fleet-Monitoring/READER-OBD2-BLUETOOTH-4-0-ENGINE-CODE/p/PP2145

It's branded 'response', part number PP-2145

Well for anyone following two things have come from this noise.

1. The noise was from resonance and a rattle caused by a worn top radiator rubber mount. :glare:

2. Analysing all the data to try and find the noise I found out I have a veeerrry lazy narrow band sensor on one side.

0001%201_zpsv4v1fljm.jpg

Well for anyone following two things have come from this noise.

1. The noise was from resonance and a rattle caused by a worn top radiator rubber mount. :glare:

Hah! Got to love the simplest of things. Much like a loose heat shield problem a friend of mine had with his car - sounded like it was pinging at a certain load.

2. Analysing all the data to try and find the noise I found out I have a veeerrry lazy narrow band sensor on one side.

I would agree.. B1 looks normal, B2 looks like it has issues..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - there is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it     Apparently this is motorsport !  
    • Thanks, will do that.  Thankfully they still feel great.
    • Yeah man, absolutely. You can try pushing me all the way in swapping the R34 for an E9x M3 
    • It's almost certainly going to be some amount of pads compound transfer onto the rotors. It will probably go away after you've run them for a bit. If not, pull it all out, lightly sand the rotors, scuff the pads, and rebed.
    • no one recommending speedtek gearsets?   i'm in the same boat as Cosline but rwd, I am holding boost back in third to 600nm at the hubs to save the gear as i make nearly 750nm at the hubs on a mainline
×
×
  • Create New...