Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hks2510s are the same as the motive hybrids. Note the hybrids are -7 turbines with -5 wheels, so it won't be making -5 level power.

I know of people very happy with their 2510s though

GT-SS or -9s seem to be a proven path, I'll just stick with that.

Yeh probably limited on 98.

Stock motor power limit? how long is a piece of string.

Generally over 20psi put arp studs in.

That's around what GT-SS/-9s will need on 98 to make 330 I think.

Might just bang them in and maybe get the timing covers freshened up and put some cam gears on it at the same time.

Hopefully not too soon as I won't be tracking it (or rarely if I do and carefully). It's just a weekender at most.

Comp was good, k's seem genuine and it's not making big power so hopefully it doesn't shit the bed straight up.

You won't need to touch anything internally in the engine till above 350kw at the wheels as long as it healthy and tuned properly. After 350 throw some head studs in it and keep pushing, a guy in WA has 500kw+ on a standard bottom end

A handful have claimed 380kw @25 psi.

I think 25psi would be the absolute max for them.

Yeah, claimed. And then failed to run the MPH at the drags (as in, not even close to 350rwkw). I don't think there is one "350rwkw+" -9 equipped GTR that's actually come remotely close to backing up it's roller number at the strip yet, even after all these years.

The problem with -7s and -9s is they simply do not respond to E85 well. Why you ask? Because they run out of air flow up top so you don't actually run out on 98 like you do with say a set of -5s because the boost is dropping off in the upper RPM - and when that is happening, you ain't gonna make much extra.

You get such good gains from -5s because you can run MORE boost than you can on 98 - they don't run outta flow on 98 as you get to around 20-22psi and for most motor builds are tapping out. E85 and 25psi and off you go and this is where you get the extra gains from in the top end and also the midrange due to so much extra air.

This is what -9s/-7s are a great street turbo on PULP. You will get some mid range on -9/-7 from E85, but it's just not going to give the kick/gains you get on -5s.

  • Like 2

The GT-R I drove in QLD with -5's didn't excite me, but to be fair only dyno'd at less than 310kw for some reason (Haltech/pump fuel)

For this car, I'm willing to sacrifice top end for midrange and response.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...