Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Turns out the swaybar problem was due to excessive toe at the front. 8.4mm in total. Has now been fixed and there is plenty of clearance for the sway bar. Wheel alignment was done this morning but I had to bring the car back because rear tyres where scrubbing. Getting some more neg camber dialled in. Will update later with final settings.

Final alignment settings.

Front

Castor 8°

Camber -2.25°

Toe out 0.8mm each

Rear

Camber -2°

(tried -1.25° first but tyres rubbed on wheel arch) -2 ° is as straight as I can go. I think I can live with that.

Toe in 1.8mm each.

Car feels good. Turn in is very sharp with 8° of castor. Hopefully I'll get to test it out on the track in a couple of weeks time.




  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...

Went to Winton on the weekend. It was the first time the 33 has been there and so far it hadn't been quicker than my S15. Saturday was the day that changed. Smashed my s15 time by 5.5 seconds. Yeah baby.

 

 

My driving was not the best, was struggling to get the car pulled up and set it up for corner entries but im very happy with the overall time. There is definitely room for improvement with driving and car setup.

  • 3 weeks later...

Minor update. Killed the brakes at Winton a few weeks back. I had qfm a1rm on the front and hpx on the back. The fronts where on the indicator and the backs on metal, oops[emoji3]. I am now going to run the intima Sr all round. Hopefully they're a bit better.


I had some new rotors in storage but decided to sell the fronts so I can get some 324mm discs with calliper adaptors instead and i used the rears I had. I grabbed some hfm adaptors for the front and they bolted straight on without any grinding or other modification other than reshaping the stone shields. I have left them in place because I plan to run some ducting in the future, so I'll just cut a hole in them and run the piping onto/through them.

A couple of pics of end result. 47c1986aca5b3a6f0235bb6b324bad02.jpg

9308fc4e27bd4400c82cafdda302a11e.jpg

ef18d7d766f5d0aaeb9f7ea44044f1d8.jpg

826918ba91f952ed427fba039e4d3b9d.jpg

eba3e2a6d8e6bde360201d161f2f2839.jpg

5bd4464df3fb05f9aa1d0e483926db6f.jpg back

  • Like 1
Looks solid mate!

Hope you like the pads [emoji4]


Thanks Johnny. Pads are good so far. No squealing at all and good bite especially once they have a little heat in them. 3 weeks from now they'll get a good work out at sandown and I'll write a proper review of them after that. If they're no good, I'll send the lebs out for your blood[emoji12]
  • Like 1

@Dose pipe Sutututu can you check if intima Sr is available in dB 1346. Apparently it will move the material of the pads in around 5mm so it doesn't hang over the edge of the disc and use more surface area. Let me know your findings. Cheers.

On 9/7/2016 at 9:21 AM, admS15 said:

Minor update. Killed the brakes at Winton a few weeks back. I had qfm a1rm on the front and hpx on the back. The fronts where on the indicator and the backs on metal, oopsemoji3.png. I am now going to run the intima Sr all round. Hopefully they're a bit better.


I had some new rotors in storage but decided to sell the fronts so I can get some 324mm discs with calliper adaptors instead and i used the rears I had. I grabbed some hfm adaptors for the front and they bolted straight on without any grinding or other modification other than reshaping the stone shields. I have left them in place because I plan to run some ducting in the future, so I'll just cut a hole in them and run the piping onto/through them.

A couple of pics of end result. 47c1986aca5b3a6f0235bb6b324bad02.jpg

9308fc4e27bd4400c82cafdda302a11e.jpg

ef18d7d766f5d0aaeb9f7ea44044f1d8.jpg

826918ba91f952ed427fba039e4d3b9d.jpg

eba3e2a6d8e6bde360201d161f2f2839.jpg

5bd4464df3fb05f9aa1d0e483926db6f.jpg back

Looking good! I was just checking out the HFM adaptors the other day - let us know how they go on the track, might be a decent budget upgrade for me as well.

EDIT: What's the manufacture quality of the adaptors like, do they feel solid enough?

  • Like 1
Looking good! I was just checking out the HFM adaptors the other day - let us know how they go on the track, might be a decent budget upgrade for me as well.

Thanks man. I will let you know how they go, but in your case you already have 310mm GTT brakes so going to 324mm isn't really much. It won't do much for me either, just a bit more rotor to absorb and disperse heat. If i was you, I would be concentrating your efforts on ducting (i should follow my own advice here) and some half decent pads. You may eventually have to bite the bullet once you wear out your semis and upgrade to 18" wheels, then you will have heaps of options. I will probably end up doing something more serious if I'm forced too. If only we could shed a few hundred kg off our cars, brakes wouldn't be such am issue. LOL.

  • Like 1

The quality is actually pretty decent, i was worried that I would have to grind some of the calliper for clearance as I had read some older reviews saying but I didn't have to, so maybe hfm revised them. I have used their adaptors before on the back of my S15 and they proved to be fine and held together well. They are about the only thing out of the whole hfm catalogue that is any good.

  • Like 1
their old adaptors required grinding of the caliper itself.. which IMO is super silly.. looks like they've updated 


About time that mob got something right.


Made a nice little change to the bov you're gonna be proud of Johnny. Got a blanking plug for the trumpet side of it, coz chooo sounds are gay. So now it's either plumb back or full dose. Sutututututututuuu, dose for weeks[emoji3]

I've been going insane for ages with boost control issues. I've checked everything I could think of numerous times and finally got to the bottom of it. Damn mac valve. I used to get full boost b4 3.5k and then I lost about 3-400 rpm in response. A few weeks back I threw on a turbotech mbc and the response was back. I proceeded to eBay and ordered a new Mac valve. Today this arrived and was fitted.

8cfef1df085c9f74ba879407c00fc700.jpg

I did have issues with this earlier on with a wire coming off it but I soldered it back on. Not sure if the issue was related to a bad connection with the wire or just wear and tare of the internals of the valve.


Went for a quick test drive afterwards and logged this on my nifty little android app. Full boost again before 3.5k. The full log of that pull says 18psi at 3400. Happy as with that.
2bbe28d94816b078dfdce53938ec8dc5.jpg

It's handy this app. Its designed to be used as a racedash. It has shift lights and you can customise what it displays. It also logs a heap of parameters. Another bonus is its also got an ethanol content gauge.

d455ef38ae60900968808f6f4870898d.jpg


Gotta love android[emoji3]

I permanently use my old retired phone to run this app.


Edit. Dose has also increased. Doses haaaaardddd[emoji1]

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...