Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not yet, will try it. I have a spare one but there is a hissing sound i can hear from the pcv area and hiss stops and idle lowers when pcv is blocked. A boost leak test didn't show up anything. Will do some hunting around tomorrow. 

Yeah the seat is good, only complaint is the gym routine to get in and out of it. Im using a small pillow to reduce the depth my butt has to lower itself into. Otherwise perfectly comfortable and easy to live with. More comfy than the S3 R33 GTR seat it replaced.

AAC was my high idle issue back in the day of 33 ownership, super common. 

Cleaned it recently? 

 
10 points Dan. Replaced it with a freshly clean spare and problem solved. The hissing was obviously a by product of the valve not working. Happily idling at 800rpm now with a stable afr.
  • Like 1

Went to Sandown today, was a glorious day for it. Unfortunately no PB, got within .3 of a second. The day got off to a very slow start, like 10 30 am slow. This has become a commom theme lately. Stopped for lunch at 1pm and i had only done 1 session. Unbelievable, only 45 cars, 4 groups and just managed to get 4 sessions in as they combined the last session with slow and fast cars. Not a smooth day, thats for sure. 

On to the positive stuff, the new seat was fantastic and i didn't have to worry about getting thrown around or my knee hitting my door card, the splitter didn't snap or go flying off. It seemed to do what it's meant to and the car felt like it had a fair bit more front grip, i got a bit too confident and pushed a bit too much until i found the limit, had a bit of an off, thankfully the car and splitter survived. The fist session showed promise with a 1.24.1 just .5 off my pb with unset tyre pressures and heavy fuel load, the second session yielded a 1.23.9, that was as good as it got. The splitter definitely made a difference but the tyres aren't in good enough shape to provide better times.

This was also the first time at Sandown with the 4.3 diff, it worked a treat, all the slow corners where taken in 3rd gear and turn 1 in 4th for most of the day. Im not sure if it was quicker or slower, i think if the corner entry is spot on with enough speed, 4th works out better, will have to review race chrono data.

Some video

 

Got a bit greedy here

 Will try and get some race chrono data up later as its on my spare phone still in the car.

Cheers.

  • Like 1

Reviewing the race chrono data, i could have theoretically done a 1:23.27 with the best sectors put together.  It also seems that using 4th gear was a little slower. I was getting to a top speed of 140 before braking and when using 3rd up to 145. With more practice it may or may not work out. I dont think there is much in it and ill just decide next time im at Sandown what I'll do.

Race chrono data. The 1:23.9 lap is recorded as 1:24.13 on RC. Dont really know what was more accurate as the official timing wasn't done with dorians. Im assuming stop watches. Lol.

Overall, im happy with the times for yesterday considering age of the tyres and condition of the track, there was kitty litter debris all over the place. There was also a Saturday track day and obviously quite a few cars had off track excursions.

Screenshot_2018-06-11-09-45-12-21.thumb.png.9ee30aa34de62a5f63be91cabb423345.png

 

Screenshot_2018-06-11-09-45-17-15.thumb.png.e9edc52121e165761d22eca526d68199.png

 

Screenshot_2018-06-11-09-56-28-68.thumb.png.5effe0c3342ad6363dc29fc0605db632.png

 

Data from lap with 3rd gear turn 1.

 

Screenshot_2018-06-11-09-56-06-69.thumb.png.a812590a0982de5f9d40998c786019de.png

  • Like 1
When I saw it start heading to wards the wall I feared the worst for you lol 

Good job to stay off the armco 
Yep, lucky i was able to react quick enough while the front wheels where still on asphalt and get it to go the other way. There was a sigh of relief as i was staring straight at the armco that i would have been getting the repair bill for. Arse end couldn't have missed by much either, judging by the rear tyre marks on the grass that can be seen when the car is facing backwards.

#thankyougod
  • 3 weeks later...

Entered Phillip island track day this Sunday.

 

 

Thought id continue on with my tight arse bunnings/ebay aero package and Frankensteined this on the back. Bought the wing 2nd hand off ebay for $100 and made the brackets out of scrap steel from work. I did everything on them except the welding which was left to a work mate.

 

The bootlid with gtr base was bought on gumtree about 6 months for $50. I was until recently using it with a modified evo 7 wing blade that i bought for $20 but for another 100 i thought id try this one. Backyard bee r style.

 

IMG20180624125123.thumb.jpg.f205b065c637bd9f7d7e474741d62c96.jpgIMG20180628170309.thumb.jpg.46618fc15a12cdc7edd79a07d2327fc6.jpgIMG20180628170116.thumb.jpg.4f45bdbe7bc010cf142993f217bc4912.jpgIMG20180628170127.thumb.jpg.388cc864f648eeacd83a63a80c9711ac.jpgIMG20180628170201.thumb.jpg.f5d531d2eab1f49206fbc66302d6a761.jpgIMG20180628170221.thumb.jpg.2ecf9aa575f3fb175c2e400a80e711c2.jpg

 

Should compliment the bunnings spec splitter perfectly. Will find out on Sunday if it does anything useful other than create traction due to the extra 15kg this weighs over the carbon boot lid.

 

 

  • Like 4

PI track day done and dusted. Was a good day out, nice weather and a smoothly run day by the wrx club. The ebay aero seemed to do something, i managed to improve my PB by 1.66 secs on well used tyres. The car did feel more settled around the high speed bends and the extra drag didnt seem to effect top speed either. Actually managed to go 1 km/h faster than ever before with a top of 243.  Since i added extra weight with the boot and wing, i removed the passenger seat to bring it back to the usual weight. Car ran good all day, only needed to adust tyre pressure and add fuel. 

Video of the best lap. 

 

 

  • Like 2
Nice work, maybe top speed was better, despite drag, because your corner exit speed was higher due to better grip?


Possibly or the wing was that crappy it didn't do anything and i just drove better. I was braking later into turn 1, felt like the wing helped under brakes, speaking of, the last session proved to be too much for the rear rotors and they fatigue cracked. Lucky i have a spare new set at home.

Im already thinking about a v2 wing that bolts on to the chassis on the sides of the boot lid. That way i can retain the carbon boot lid and not add too much weight. Also thinking a decently designed carbon blade profile that will create proper down force. Just got to work out a budget way to do it, lol.
  • 1 month later...

Not much has been happening with this, just daily driving and enjoying it. Has been running fairly sweet. Being an August built car, she's just turned 22, so i got her some birthday treats to show my appreciation.

Fresh engine, gearbox and diff oil as well as fresh fuel and oil filter. Will do plugs on the weekend, all in preparation for some track action. If the weather is good, i'm hoping to get to Phillip island on the 9/9 and then the SAU Sandown day on the 29th.

Tyres are looking pretty 2nd hand but im determined to get as much use as i can out of them. Happy just to get out there and have some fun. I'll assess what they look like after PI and if need be, may get a new set.


IMG20180829171151.jpeg




IMG20180829171128.jpeg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...