Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not yet, will try it. I have a spare one but there is a hissing sound i can hear from the pcv area and hiss stops and idle lowers when pcv is blocked. A boost leak test didn't show up anything. Will do some hunting around tomorrow. 

Yeah the seat is good, only complaint is the gym routine to get in and out of it. Im using a small pillow to reduce the depth my butt has to lower itself into. Otherwise perfectly comfortable and easy to live with. More comfy than the S3 R33 GTR seat it replaced.

AAC was my high idle issue back in the day of 33 ownership, super common. 

Cleaned it recently? 

 
10 points Dan. Replaced it with a freshly clean spare and problem solved. The hissing was obviously a by product of the valve not working. Happily idling at 800rpm now with a stable afr.
  • Like 1

Went to Sandown today, was a glorious day for it. Unfortunately no PB, got within .3 of a second. The day got off to a very slow start, like 10 30 am slow. This has become a commom theme lately. Stopped for lunch at 1pm and i had only done 1 session. Unbelievable, only 45 cars, 4 groups and just managed to get 4 sessions in as they combined the last session with slow and fast cars. Not a smooth day, thats for sure. 

On to the positive stuff, the new seat was fantastic and i didn't have to worry about getting thrown around or my knee hitting my door card, the splitter didn't snap or go flying off. It seemed to do what it's meant to and the car felt like it had a fair bit more front grip, i got a bit too confident and pushed a bit too much until i found the limit, had a bit of an off, thankfully the car and splitter survived. The fist session showed promise with a 1.24.1 just .5 off my pb with unset tyre pressures and heavy fuel load, the second session yielded a 1.23.9, that was as good as it got. The splitter definitely made a difference but the tyres aren't in good enough shape to provide better times.

This was also the first time at Sandown with the 4.3 diff, it worked a treat, all the slow corners where taken in 3rd gear and turn 1 in 4th for most of the day. Im not sure if it was quicker or slower, i think if the corner entry is spot on with enough speed, 4th works out better, will have to review race chrono data.

Some video

 

Got a bit greedy here

 Will try and get some race chrono data up later as its on my spare phone still in the car.

Cheers.

  • Like 1

Reviewing the race chrono data, i could have theoretically done a 1:23.27 with the best sectors put together.  It also seems that using 4th gear was a little slower. I was getting to a top speed of 140 before braking and when using 3rd up to 145. With more practice it may or may not work out. I dont think there is much in it and ill just decide next time im at Sandown what I'll do.

Race chrono data. The 1:23.9 lap is recorded as 1:24.13 on RC. Dont really know what was more accurate as the official timing wasn't done with dorians. Im assuming stop watches. Lol.

Overall, im happy with the times for yesterday considering age of the tyres and condition of the track, there was kitty litter debris all over the place. There was also a Saturday track day and obviously quite a few cars had off track excursions.

Screenshot_2018-06-11-09-45-12-21.thumb.png.9ee30aa34de62a5f63be91cabb423345.png

 

Screenshot_2018-06-11-09-45-17-15.thumb.png.e9edc52121e165761d22eca526d68199.png

 

Screenshot_2018-06-11-09-56-28-68.thumb.png.5effe0c3342ad6363dc29fc0605db632.png

 

Data from lap with 3rd gear turn 1.

 

Screenshot_2018-06-11-09-56-06-69.thumb.png.a812590a0982de5f9d40998c786019de.png

  • Like 1
When I saw it start heading to wards the wall I feared the worst for you lol 

Good job to stay off the armco 
Yep, lucky i was able to react quick enough while the front wheels where still on asphalt and get it to go the other way. There was a sigh of relief as i was staring straight at the armco that i would have been getting the repair bill for. Arse end couldn't have missed by much either, judging by the rear tyre marks on the grass that can be seen when the car is facing backwards.

#thankyougod
  • 3 weeks later...

Entered Phillip island track day this Sunday.

 

 

Thought id continue on with my tight arse bunnings/ebay aero package and Frankensteined this on the back. Bought the wing 2nd hand off ebay for $100 and made the brackets out of scrap steel from work. I did everything on them except the welding which was left to a work mate.

 

The bootlid with gtr base was bought on gumtree about 6 months for $50. I was until recently using it with a modified evo 7 wing blade that i bought for $20 but for another 100 i thought id try this one. Backyard bee r style.

 

IMG20180624125123.thumb.jpg.f205b065c637bd9f7d7e474741d62c96.jpgIMG20180628170309.thumb.jpg.46618fc15a12cdc7edd79a07d2327fc6.jpgIMG20180628170116.thumb.jpg.4f45bdbe7bc010cf142993f217bc4912.jpgIMG20180628170127.thumb.jpg.388cc864f648eeacd83a63a80c9711ac.jpgIMG20180628170201.thumb.jpg.f5d531d2eab1f49206fbc66302d6a761.jpgIMG20180628170221.thumb.jpg.2ecf9aa575f3fb175c2e400a80e711c2.jpg

 

Should compliment the bunnings spec splitter perfectly. Will find out on Sunday if it does anything useful other than create traction due to the extra 15kg this weighs over the carbon boot lid.

 

 

  • Like 4

PI track day done and dusted. Was a good day out, nice weather and a smoothly run day by the wrx club. The ebay aero seemed to do something, i managed to improve my PB by 1.66 secs on well used tyres. The car did feel more settled around the high speed bends and the extra drag didnt seem to effect top speed either. Actually managed to go 1 km/h faster than ever before with a top of 243.  Since i added extra weight with the boot and wing, i removed the passenger seat to bring it back to the usual weight. Car ran good all day, only needed to adust tyre pressure and add fuel. 

Video of the best lap. 

 

 

  • Like 2
Nice work, maybe top speed was better, despite drag, because your corner exit speed was higher due to better grip?


Possibly or the wing was that crappy it didn't do anything and i just drove better. I was braking later into turn 1, felt like the wing helped under brakes, speaking of, the last session proved to be too much for the rear rotors and they fatigue cracked. Lucky i have a spare new set at home.

Im already thinking about a v2 wing that bolts on to the chassis on the sides of the boot lid. That way i can retain the carbon boot lid and not add too much weight. Also thinking a decently designed carbon blade profile that will create proper down force. Just got to work out a budget way to do it, lol.
  • 1 month later...

Not much has been happening with this, just daily driving and enjoying it. Has been running fairly sweet. Being an August built car, she's just turned 22, so i got her some birthday treats to show my appreciation.

Fresh engine, gearbox and diff oil as well as fresh fuel and oil filter. Will do plugs on the weekend, all in preparation for some track action. If the weather is good, i'm hoping to get to Phillip island on the 9/9 and then the SAU Sandown day on the 29th.

Tyres are looking pretty 2nd hand but im determined to get as much use as i can out of them. Happy just to get out there and have some fun. I'll assess what they look like after PI and if need be, may get a new set.


IMG20180829171151.jpeg




IMG20180829171128.jpeg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...