2000 R34 Gt-t 2.5ltr - Performance Issues

[MikeR34GTT]

Hi guys,

I've recently become the owner of my first Skyline (model in title) and have been perusing this forum before and after my purchase, which has been an absolute help to me and was wondering if anyone could help shed some light on a problem I've been having.

Problem 1: When I put my foot hard down, going into the high RPMs, it feels like the engine struggles a bit, gives a little then goes back up then gives a little then continues on, almost like lagging a bit - anyone familiar with this problem?

Problem 2: I have had an engine light issue "half diagnosed" where the engine light, TCS OFF and SLIP light comes on. Was plugged into a scan tool and all I got back was "Ignition Source Primary" which the mechanic and I both thought that the coils were on the way out. Any help with this one would be good. Seems to disappear when I turn the car back on after some time.

First problem I thought may have been a faulty CAS or slightly out of position or dodgy fuel injectors. The second problem I think the coils, but I'm very beginner when it comes to the mechanics.

Thanks a bunch guys

[Hadouken]

AFM

Weak spark

Boost leak

[MikeR34GTT]

AFM

Weak spark

Boost leak

Sorry can you be a little more specific on what those are exactly. The car is basically stock, only aftermarket parts are some strut bars

[Hadouken]

I am partly insinuating that you should google say "afm problem skyline" and see if the symptoms match your description.

And your issue can be taken as miss fire which is caused by a weak spark.

A boost leak would also cause hesitation while driving.

However none of these can be adequately diagnosed over the Internet and will require a lot of research on your behalf.

[brent47]

Try unplug the o2 sensor in the dump pipe as they can cause this issue, something to knock off the list anyway.

[V28VX37]

...

First problem I thought may have been a faulty CAS or slightly out of position or dodgy fuel injectors. The second problem I think the coils, but I'm very beginner when it comes to the mechanics.

...

Faulty CAS would be my guess too, I had a pretty similar experience: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326043-resolved-misfire-in-r34-gtt-rb25det-neo/

I reckon RB25's actually come with misfire built in, never seen an engine with so many things that could cause a stutter...

[666DAN]

...plugged into a scan tool and all I got back was "Ignition Source Primary" which the mechanic and I both thought that the coils were on the way out

And you're 100% correct, this *IS* the problem. The packs will initially fault when warm (continuity in the circuit breaks) when cold continuity is fine. The simplest answer is often the correct one. Every other fault people are listing *WILL* give a different error code, primary ignition = coil packs, no ifs or buts.

Replace all the packs with Splitfires and don't look back!

[MikeR34GTT]

And you're 100% correct, this *IS* the problem. The packs will initially fault when warm (continuity in the circuit breaks) when cold continuity is fine. The simplest answer is often the correct one. Every other fault people are listing *WILL* give a different error code, primary ignition = coil packs, no ifs or buts.

Replace all the packs with Splitfires and don't look back!

As I suspected too, real shame.

I know every man and his dog suggest Splitfires for these but I don't have that much on me outright otherwise I'd love too.

Was looking at these el cheapo ones that come with a one year warranty until I can save some dough for the Splitfires and not have my R34 running on 5 cylinders http://www.ebay.com.au/ulk/itm/221665070389

Anyone know much about these? "Japtek". I know you get what you pay for but its just something to tie my over

[Trex]

Drive normally and save for either split fires or genuine coilpacks.

[admS15]

Poor man pays twice. They should be ok for stock power levels but do expect a failure. As above comment, your better off just driving easily, gap the plugs down to .6mm and save for oem or split fires.

[MikeR34GTT]

Poor man pays twice. They should be ok for stock power levels but do expect a failure. As above comment, your better off just driving easily, gap the plugs down to .6mm and save for oem or split fires.

Couldn't agree more, I'm pretty novice when it comes to these cars, haven't had mine long (took me about 3 hours to change my plugs, fun but time consuming and trial and error), so I wasn't sure if I should find a cheap set to tie me over or if running with coils on the way out is bad for the engine or not. I don't really hoon around so I think I should be okay.

[admS15]

Have u closed the gaps down? That will help

[MikeR34GTT]

Have u closed the gaps down? That will help

Now that you think about it.... haha

Yeah, I bought the NGK 1.1's that everyone had recommended and gapped them down to 8's.. think gapping them down to 6 is really going to help?

[admS15]

Now that you think about it.... haha

Yeah, I bought the NGK 1.1's that everyone had recommended and gapped them down to 8's.. think gapping them down to 6 is really going to help?

It should. Give it a go. Can't hurt

[666DAN]

.......don't buy OEM either, you'll end up with the same problem down the track.

It's true Splitfires aren't cheap, and it hurts to buy something that feels like a complete non-value adding component (like damn tyres) but you seriously never look back and they can take pretty much whatever you throw at them future tune-wise.

The gift that keeps on giving!

[Gcjosh]

Probably just needs a tune [emoji41]

Stick a timing light on it and see where it's at

[admS15]

.......don't buy OEM either, you'll end up with the same problem down the track.

It's true Splitfires aren't cheap, and it hurts to buy something that feels like a complete non-value adding component (like damn tyres) but you seriously never look back and they can take pretty much whatever you throw at them future tune-wise.

The gift that keeps on giving!

OEM are more than capable and have been proven time and time again to handle big power and be more reliable than aftermarket. People usually go split fire because they're cheaper. People have problems with oem because they have 20+ year old units and expect them to make 300+kW. My 20 year old coils are still going, when the time comes I know what I will be replacing them with.

[Ben C34]

.......don't buy OEM either, you'll end up with the same problem down the track.

It's true Splitfires aren't cheap, and it hurts to buy something that feels like a complete non-value adding component (like damn tyres) but you seriously never look back and they can take pretty much whatever you throw at them future tune-wise.

The gift that keeps on giving!

Do splitfires last 20 years?

[666DAN]

Do splitfires last 20 years?

I know they last 11 years.....and counting.....

Those familiar with the R34 OEM coilpacks can tell you that they suck. My original R34, the OEM set started playing up in 2004 (5 year old car at the time) I actually replaced them with SII R33 packs which seem to be made of sterner stuff as they worked fine, but they don't fit well at all due to bolt pattern.

[niZmO_Man]

Meh, my Yellowjackets are going good, been two years now I think.