Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Been offered some turbos, very close to -9 specs. This will be a on a 34.

-9 are as below and this reads comp to turbine.

Garrett 707160-9 44.46 - 59.41 56T 0.42 42.4 - 53.85 62T 0.64

But what I was offered has 60mm comp wheel and a 53mm turbine wheel.

Bigger comp wheel would normally mean more power, but in the same size housing will that mean more response and more power or more response and less top end as it will choke out.

Likewise, the slightly smaller turbine wheel tells me a little less response, but flow better top end in the same housing.

Any guesses on what the characteristics will be?

Edited by ActionDan

My guess is that unless the blade design of both is identical then the aerodynamic differences of each wheel could be more significant than those tiny diameter differences. Also, no mention made of the minor diameters of the other wheels.....mileage may vary there too.

If aero design was otherwise the same, then I'd say that your impressions are pretty close to correct and it might take a very sensitive bum dyno to feel the difference.

That I can't comment on.

All I know is it will essentially be a 2560R core (and turbine wheel) with a .64 rear housing and a -5 comp wheel in my .53 Comp housing.

To me that all equates to a more responsive -5 but will less top end?

my input and thoughts, feel free to ignore :)

Get those turbos, sell them.. then convert to a single GTX3576 or even GTX3582 on a proper twin scroll manifold and a proper divided housing with either twin gates or merge both pulses all the way to a single 50mm gate or larger. Eventually all response and power hungry GT-R owners convert to a modern single turbo.

  • 2 weeks later...

Same result, hence I was trying the phone.

I also tried FB messenger for Chris personally as we're still connected from DECA days.

All sorted now, turbos will be here today or tomorrow, tuner will supply the Haltech.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi everyone, I've been wrestling with this for a while now and have been trying to find out the cause. For context, the turbos used are Garrett 2860 -5s, the BOV is a BNR32 HKS SSQV IV kit, the car is currently tuned to ~470 whp on 17.5 psi. The car drives normally, pulls well when it doesn't happen, and I can replicate it fairly easily. It does not sound like turbo shuffle or flutter. The engine has only a thousand or so miles and has had this behavior since it was completed. After my engine was built for my R32 GTR, I noticed that the car now sometimes makes an air discharge sound on what appears to be positive boost pressure that sounds really similar to a BOV. I had thought that it was a BOV issue but even when replacing it with a brand new unit, the sound persisted. It seems like it's coming from the passenger side but I may be mistaken. The closest scenario I could find was this post here https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/ started by @yakshii and it sounds very similar. As in, at partial throttle once I reach positive boost I begin to hear the same psh psh psh psh psh sound like air is leaking somewhere when I keep the throttle in the same position. It most commonly happens in 4th gear at around 3-3.5k RPM and 5th gear around 2.5-3k RPM, which seems to coincide with normal positive boost thresholds. It might be similar to what @Austrian GTR mentioned about his own HKS SSQV. Notable difference would be that when he applies more throttle when it happens, it stops. In my scenario if I apply more throttle during this repeated psh psh psh sound, the cadence of the sound gets faster and louder rather than stopping. If I lift off slightly and apply throttle again, it will normally stop and pull without issue. I've checked all rubber couplers to ensure that they are tight, but have not gotten the opportunity to properly do a pressurized boost leak test. If anyone has had similar experiences or thoughts on what might be the cause, I'd be very keen to hear them. I also have a video of it happening from inside the cabin, if that would make it easier to understand: https://youtu.be/2zqZXcx8jbA
    • I'd want at least $40K for mine, but thats easy to say cos I'm not selling anyway.
    • That's incorrect. We have 4 seasons, consisting of pre winter, winter, post winter and a small glimpse of hope! 
    • I spotted a black C34 in Mittagong this morning!
×
×
  • Create New...