Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

SAU Nickname - Snowman

Car Make and Model - BMW 135i E87

Circuit Name - Nurburgring - Germany

Lap Time (BTG) - 9.12.3 :) - Google Earth file of lap here - http://sau.ferni.net/Snowy/20080404-1505-b...ap-1-export.kml

\

Mods - Half cage, Sparco Race Seat and harness, Brembo Brakes and pads and KW Suspension

Tyres - Bridgestone RE050 street tyres.

Power - 306HP

I did one slow sighting lap to see the track and get a feel for the car - which scared the crap out of me.

I then did my 1 hot lap - which really scared the crap out of me.

On my next lap it started PISSING down and then a car infront of me speared off into a wall halfway around the track and with me having a $20K excess over my head I decided it was time to call it a day. (My lap time in the rain was 10.51).

But my god - what a track that place is!

post-5136-1207702246_thumb.jpg

So jealous... I really regret not doing the burgerring while I was over there...

Same here.. I was over there for 2 years and it did not even enter into my head that I should goto the ring.. how f'n stupid of me

Dam snowy!!!!!Well done mate!!!!

Is that the twin turbo bmw? (same motor from the 335?)

Has anyone else here done the ring? A mate did it in a renault megane and was around the 10min mark

Dam snowy!!!!!Well done mate!!!!

Is that the twin turbo bmw? (same motor from the 335?)

Has anyone else here done the ring? A mate did it in a renault megane and was around the 10min mark

Yep - same twin turbo motor out of the 335i. I originally booked that car as I thought it should be fun and light and nimble. When I got there on Friday morning Theo (who runs rent-racecar) told me I had picked the "most difficult to drive" car in his fleet. LOL. I soon found out why. Because it has pretty good power but it as quite a short wheel base so it was EXTREMELY twitchy in the rear - espeically at higher speeds. And there are plently of places you find yourself having to brake and turn from high speeds and boy did I have some moments! Still - no point in not making the most of a potentially one off life experience hey. :D

BTW - Theo told me I was insane to have run 9.12 on my 1st ever lap around the place. lol

  • 4 weeks later...

SAU Nickname: Dave R (David Rodan)

Car Make and Model: 99' Honda Integra R (DC2R)

Circuit Name: Wakefield park (Re-surfaced)

Lap time: 1:11.5

Modifications

Engine: Exhaust, extractors, intake.

Power: aprox 105-110kw @ wheels

Suspension: Buddyclub Race Spec Coilovers, Buddyclub P1 Camber Kit F&R

Tyres: Dunlop D03 (semi's)

Brakes: Project Mu 500max, Slotted Rotors

Body weight: 1175kg (full tank of fuel and me)

Weather was interesting, was raining on and off during the morning and the track was fairly slippery for most of the day.

:)

was done on 27/4/08 Round 2 of NSW SS...

http://www.natsoft.com.au/cgi-bin/re...4/2008.WAKE.SS

Yer yer i know its not a skyline :(

Edited by Dave R

SAU Nickname: Duncan

Car Make and Model: 32gtr n1

Circuit Name: Oran Park

Lap time: 49.7193

Modifications

Engine: standard n1

Power: 240awkw

Suspension: noltec coilovers

Tyres: yoko a048r

Brakes: standard brembos

Body weight: 1550kg

done at night too!

Beat my PB at Winton by 3 seconds today with 35rwkw less than before at 1.41.7-ish

Damn, I know my lines arent the best, and im going in a bit too hot on some of the corners, but I dont think theres more than 2 sec's in it (at my level of skill) unless im doing something really wrong.

Wonder how much time there is in it if I get a proper wheel alignment and some strut braces and sway bars. No matter, I wont be doing anything else to it until get into the 30's. No point spending more money to make up for the lack of driver skill :)

Edited by Yawn

The car has 280rwkw and Ohlins coilovers and RE55s. I need a wheel alignment, havent done it before, and some sway bars and strut braces might help a bit.

The first time at Winton I did 1.44-ish, which was the time before this. I had 315rwkw at that time with RE55s and GAB coilovers.

Im not that satisfied with the time because of me knowing quite a few drivers in their stock-ish evo's in the 38-39s. And your time too Roy, thats what I call respectable. You've got less power than me but presumably more suspension work?

  • 2 weeks later...

SAU Nickname: BHDave

Car Make and Model: 32gtst nugget

Circuit Name: Wakefield

Lap time: 1:07.9310 (natsoft No 12)

Modifications

Engine: rb25det

Power: 255rwkw for the moment

Suspension: cusco comp 2 coilovers, Whiteline 24mm front and rear bars yadda yadda, same as last time

Tyres: 235/45 17 RE55 well past the indicators on the rear

Brakes: R34 GTT front with pmu hcr pro rotors and HC+ pads

Body weight: Stock minus AC compressor, back seat and boot trim. GTR bonnet and front guards

Natsoft arvo standings

So Boz pulled a 1:05 out of the southern motor works exige today (running slick i might add....), does that mean my car has a low 6 in it as it stands? :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...