Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys just purchased a 99 gtr vspec and am having an issue when i come onto boost starts at about 4.5k rpm and gets worse as u accelerate. it feels like im losing traction and the cars rear will kick out to the right. i plan to taqke it to the shop to get it looked at but was just wondering if anyone had an idea of what it might be. It may be something as silly as a boost leak or something, ive come from an sti and ive had boost leaks before doesnt feel anything like that tho car shakes and feels like its jerking back and forth throughout the rev range. car is completely stock no mods other than pirelli p zeros all round no engine work done. if i let the boost build up slowly it wont freak out and cause the problem only when i hit full boost it will start ripping up the tyres and sliding out. ive checked for boost leaks spraying on ic pipes etc but no luck so far locating the issue could this me a afm issue or something to do with the air/fuel raitos? the restrictor pill was removed by owner in japan and is running 1bar.

sorry if this was a silly question or has been answered elsewhere, i just cant put my finger on it!

(not trying to troll )

Edited by v-specjay

Have you considered that you are now driving a RWD biased AWD car and it could actually be losing traction at the rear simply because it is losing traction?

There may or may not be an alignment problem or worn bushes or subframe mounts etc etc that might be causing it. It doesn't HAVE to be coming from the engine end of the car!

If its standard as you claim it shouldn't be doing that.

But if its modded.....fully sik. :)

On a serious note, my GTRs rear use to come out under power, she would crab walk, ended up being the subframe bushes were leaking and i put some alloy C rings in place to stop it, she went straight after that.

Itsat standard vspec height its sitting on original suspension also yes it still has original coil packs. I will have to look into the subframe bushes hopefully something turns up..n yes gts boy i understand that its not a full time awd but this is not just simply breaking traction due to power from the rears its more like when i come on boost imagine like fuel surge bunny hops and makes the car break traction and jerks the car forward and backward similar to what youd feel when you have a large boost leak..soo frustrating!

It could be the ATTESA system that also activates the rear A-LSD on a R34 V-SPEC needs bleeding

Either way it sounds like the car has some issues, best off getting it to someone that knows these cars so they can give it the once over

  • Like 1

If boost (positive pressure) Is only coming in at 4.5K rpm on standard turbos you have issues... Are you sure this is the case as per your post???

**edit** i think i misread due to punctuation... You are on boost, then at 4.5K rpm you have traction issues

?

Edited by djvoodoo
  • Like 1

It could be the ATTESA system that also activates the rear A-LSD on a R34 V-SPEC needs bleeding

Either way it sounds like the car has some issues, best off getting it to someone that knows these cars so they can give it the once over

Oh i forgot about the fun bundle that the A-LSD is.

Itsat standard vspec height its sitting on original suspension also yes it still has original coil packs. I will have to look into the subframe bushes hopefully something turns up..n yes gts boy i understand that its not a full time awd but this is not just simply breaking traction due to power from the rears its more like when i come on boost imagine like fuel surge bunny hops and makes the car break traction and jerks the car forward and backward similar to what youd feel when you have a large boost leak..soo frustrating!

Ever experienced axle tramp?

  • Like 1

Yep the tyres are all the same size, i think it sounds like axle tramp, never experienced it before but sounds on par with whats going on with mine. Thanks guys and

  • XKLABA i will have to check out the attesa see if it needs bleeding. Could be a combo of all of these things just helps to narrow it down a little.

Cheers for the info guys ill report back after a once over from my mechanic if anyone is curious as to what the problem was.

If a stock R34 GTR is breaking traction it has a 4WD problem of some sort, or very very shit tyres, if it has a 4WD problem and is a V-Spec it will most likely have an A-LSD problem to

A small air pocket won't kick a code but will slow down the operation speed of the diff and 4WD

Lol. How can it break traction and jerk back and forth.

Axle tramp is like a hopping sensation in the back.

Sti and gtr are WORLDS apart in how they drive

yep im not exactly sure mate feels like a little of both at the same time im assuming it has something to do with the attesa ill take it to croydon see what they make of it

If a stock R34 GTR is breaking traction it has a 4WD problem of some sort, or very very shit tyres, if it has a 4WD problem and is a V-Spec it will most likely have an A-LSD problem to

A small air pocket won't kick a code but will slow down the operation speed of the diff and 4WD

ye exactly it feels like the torque is being split up unevenly or delayed, i have a feeling your on the money.

Edited by v-specjay

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you mean the alarm immobiliser; theyre internal to the alarm itself which makes that difficult; I couldnt even see where he put it; its not in the same place as last time; but with all black wiring it might be very challenging to trace  I had someone turn the key for me as I know it only primes for a couple of seconds As my post above; I am getting no voltage to the pump at all; but I am testing continuity of the power line (SB) from the pump plug to the relay fine. As well as the negative from the pump plug to a 12V constant.    Yeah; he blammed the no start on a bad battery; said I needed to get a new battery and it'll start. Turns out the battery drained because the tail lights had been on for half the day during the install (the rubber cushion on the brake switch gave out while he was testing it as I have a picture of the car from that morning with the tail lights off..i've replaced that). The battery was turning over the engine just fine for a long time; but got low since lights were draining it so it was too low to test a start after he finished. I bought a new one on his advice...$250 wasted. My original battery charged up just fine and is healthy.    It was running perfectly fine when I messed up the old alarm (programmed out the remotes). He couldnt start it after removing the old alarm; my assumption is that when he unhooked it; he didnt bridge the circuit back when trying to start it. Its always been perfectly fine. The ECU swap and pump were 2 years ago. It's never missed a beat in that time. 
    • This is a big issue for me without the diff. I just have zero drive from the passenger side when drivers side has no traction. Bec's parents place has a crazy steep driveway with odd camber and I have never been able to get up. My bro-in-law's 130i with an (unknown brand) LSD gets up fine as does their dad's Hiace. My car stays at the bottom. We have other odd camber roads around here as we're elevated a bit and if it's raining I can get totally stuck around some hairpins. 
    • Yeah, I am super excited for this.
    • Was the car running before he touched the car?
×
×
  • Create New...