Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK did sound like a cool story. While we are judging some of you need a hug.

Well, to be fair, you need to back up what you claim, otherwise, it's just another cool story. You have to appreciate that many a joker will jump on a forum, make a lot of claims about a particular business pretending to be a happy customer when in reality, they're a part of the said business. Hence if you take a look at my thread, I posted the graph along with my post, just to keep it all legitimate.

Getting back to your tune, looks like you got 2kW more than I. Must be those funky little black things from AsM. :P I was curious about how they sound but if it sounds raspy, I might just stick to my Megan Racing muffler and leave it alone.

How much did CRD charge you for the dyno tune?

  • Like 1

Personally, I didn't notice any throttle lag in my 2009 and no change after the tune either.

As for the gear shifts being snappier, I'm curious about this because mine feel the same but I usually shift down a couple gears in preparation for my squirt anyway - always on the ready. :P

I had the Auto /Tipronic and I never bothered using the Tipronic as the Auto change was sharp, put your foot down and would get you going real fast, shocked a lot of young blokes with the response of this car, the twin Turbos made it very sneaky :woot:

I had the Auto /Tipronic and I never bothered using the Tipronic as the Auto change was sharp, put your foot down and would get you going real fast, shocked a lot of young blokes with the response of this car, the twin Turbos made it very sneaky :woot:

haha, 250 at the wheels helps... 180 not so much :)

haha, 250 at the wheels helps... 180 not so much

But I traded a 300ZX TT, it felt better than the ZX before the TT upgrade and I did not notice lag ?

It was smooth, but like most of the blokes on this Forum, I wanted more and when I got it , I think my dick moved :yes:

I don't really have lag with mine, but I find the auto can be a bit sluggish.

I'm pretty sure it adapts to your driving style though. If I drive a bit harder than usual first thing, it seems alot more eager to shift and when it does it's quite quick. Drive more sedately or in traffic and it seems to favour smooth shifts.

Just to add to this I am pretty stoked with the fuel economy improvement.

I was averaging 6.4km/l or 512kms per tank.

This is the second tank I had since the tune.

With this tank I did a return trip to Canberra at 588ks. The rest has been normal Sydney traffic and I have been driving it hard with paddle shift.

I reset the trip meter 5km after filling a tank. So its at call it 700ks with 160ks left to go on the fuel meter reading (which is always slightly overstated)

Even though its highway driving and different to metro I'm pretty stoked as normally would need to refuel halfway back and I'm home with a quarter of a tank left.

post-111327-0-53792200-1453623675_thumb.jpg

Edited by DJ Volatile

Sounds about right.

In my 2009, driving Sydney to Melbourne (and not behaving myself, ;) ) I got 10.58km/L on the first half and 9.29km/L on the next leg, according to my fuel logging app I use on my phone (MyFuelLog - check it out, really handy). As I'm a bit of a stickler for BP fuel, on the way back I made the mistake of not stopping past the BP in Albury, thinking there was another one further up north but they didn't have Ultimate 98 (and were closed!!). With the trip meter not being able to calculate the remaining distance beyond the last estimate of 30km, I ended up stopping past the Caltex further up and filled up with 69.01L on 663km, so you're pretty close to the mark.

Driving Sydney to Canberra last month, I got 11.88km/L on the return trip. City driving, I average 7.09km/L, again, driving somewhat enthusiastically.

Now, with all that good news, you still haven't told us how much the dyno tune cost. So, tell us the price!

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...