Jump to content
SAU Community

How To Retrieve 4wd/attesa Fault Codes? S2 C34 Stagea

IBoughtANissan

By IBoughtANissan,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

IBoughtANissan Apprentice

IBoughtANissan

Posted
Posted

I've got a 98' Series 2 Stagea and the 4wd doesn't work (See more here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463038-help-with-fault-finding-attesa-system-attesa-ecu-c34/#entry7685341)

Just wondering how do i retrieve error codes relating to the 4wd system? I've got to the ABS/ESP computer (Also 4wd?) and a few forum posts reference a red flashing light through a hole or someone said it is on the PCB itself. I've pulled the cover off the computer and could not see a light anywhere (See photos attached).

Is there another way to get the codes?

post-142543-0-27873800-1455871490_thumb.jpg

post-142543-0-58007600-1455871491_thumb.jpg

post-142543-0-03844800-1455871494_thumb.jpg

IBoughtANissan Apprentice

IBoughtANissan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Asked a mate today who said he might have one. If I shorted out the two pins and got 5 slow, 5 fast (No fault?), Will the consult pickup on the 4wd light error?

I'm from Gosford,NSW (1 hour north of Sydney)

IBoughtANissan Apprentice

IBoughtANissan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

My understanding of that list is that it's saying the 4wd light wouldn't be illuminated for error 55 on that list?

Also that list corresponds to the led flashing light on the Attesa ecu in the boot (which mine does not have a flashing led)?
Is there another list hidden away somewhere that corresponds to the consult port fault codes?

IBoughtANissan Apprentice

IBoughtANissan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No luck so far mate. Got a mate with a consult connector so I'm going to chuck it on tomorrow and see if it comes back with anything.

If you work it out please let me know mate

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

looked into this beforehand pal unless yours is an s2 ? won't work i don't think the main problem for me is the fact i can't fine my diagnostics plug almost like it has been cut of

Just checking - it should be behind the coin tray but sometimes they seem to fall down or otherwise become detached. Have you had a look upwards from under the dash (need to be a bit of a contortionist)?

centoproject Contributor

centoproject

Posted
Posted

Just checking - it should be behind the coin tray but sometimes they seem to fall down or otherwise become detached. Have you had a look upwards from under the dash (need to be a bit of a contortionist)?

i have looked right under the dash i can see the grey plastic bracket from its plug where it looked to have snapped off of its mount i may remover the lower dash section soon

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Are you an oil nerd?

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • GTSBoy
      Are you an oil nerd?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • dbm7
      BCNR33 Blower Motor Resistor - Testing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...