Jump to content
SAU Community

Stagea Questions

nachoman

By nachoman,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

nachoman Collaborator

nachoman

Posted
Posted

Long term reader, minimal poster ;)

questions regarding the stagea

looking a family wagon as Im moving up from a sedan and as this will be a daily driver, will need something safe.

commodore wagon ( VF/VE ) is on the list , but if a stagea can be had cheaper , ill buy it

can it run 95 octane ? ( being daily car )

So questions are , does the stagea have rearward facing airvents for the second row passengers ?

not sure which model has it

is leather on all models ?

Sunroof ( optional , not fussed )

which model is better suited ( turbo 6 or the NA models )

Thanks all

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463522-stagea-questions/
Share on other sites
DrLui Collaborator

DrLui

Posted
Posted

Some came with air vents for the second row. Ive had 2 M35's and only my current one has them

Leather was an option, but standard on the ARX and AXIS

Sunroofs was also an option

Cant really comment on the NA models but i have had 2 VQ25DET's and they are a really good motor imo

With running 95, im sure someone here can give better info than i can. Ive always ran 98 on mine

DRF72 Collaborator

DRF72

Posted
Posted (edited)

It really depends on which model you are look at, M35 or C34 S1 or S2

I have a C34 Series 2 Dayz edition that is optioned with an RB25 Neo, auto, RWD, Traction control, Multi Av system, Advest audio system, privacy glass, HID's, tow bar, cloth seats no sunroof and tien coilovers all round.

It is used as my family car with 3 kids and 2 dogs, believe it or not the kids have more room on the back seat compared with our previous vehicle that was a HZJ105r Landcruiser.

The C34 gets an average of 550 - 610 km per tank with the wife driving it. I can not fault the vehicle, they are comfy, roomy and enjoyable to drive.

Edited by DRF72
Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

VE or VF is a way better family car. Cheap insurance.

Way more rear seat room, better safety, better security. Anywhere can work on them. No trouble getting parts.

And you can camouflage yourself among the bogans in any major city.

  • Like 2
datmoo Proficient

datmoo

Posted
Posted

The more important question is, when they stop making Commondores in Straya and start importing Chevys and putting Holden badges on them will bogans still put Chevy badges on their Holden badged Chevys?

  • Like 1
admS15 Grand Master

admS15

Posted
Posted

The more important question is, when they stop making Commondores in Straya and start importing Chevys and putting Holden badges on them will bogans still put Chevy badges on their Holden badged Chevys?

Can oath m8, chev badges 4 life[emoji106]
  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Dmyze_ Enthusiast

Dmyze_

Posted
Posted

The question is more do you want a Stagea?

The VE on paper is better for everything you are looking at; cheaper parts, more modern, better climate control, safer, cheaper to run and likely better resale.

The only pro for the Stagea is that it is a Stagea.

Don't get me wrong, I love mine - and I bought it with the idea of it being the Daily and eventually Family Wagon.

But I also bought it because I wanted a Stagea, if I had only wanted a Family wagon I would go VE in a heart beat.

The rear ducts were an option on the M35 I believe, however its been shown that it can be retrofitted with ease as the ducts just terminate under the center console/arm rest.

The NA model PM35 is a better option for parts as it shares an engine with 350z's and V35's and its upkeep is likely less being naturally aspirated and RWD.

I also imagine you could easily get away with 95 octane in the NA - I wouldn't use anything but 98 in the turbo myself (it can still likely run on 95 though).

  • Like 1
nachoman Collaborator

nachoman

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Thanks Dymze

interesting about the NA stagea , wasnt aware that it was RWD ( thought only 4wd like 2.5turbos )

I imagine the PM35 would use a lot less fuel as well , being non turbo , less weight and no 4wd .

also in regards to safety

didnt some stageas get optioned with 4 or 6 airbags ?

Edited by nachoman
iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted

Thanks Dymze

interesting about the NA stagea , wasnt aware that it was RWD ( thought only 4wd like 2.5turbos )

I imagine the PM35 would use a lot less fuel as well , being non turbo , less weight and no 4wd .

also in regards to safety

didnt some stageas get optioned with 4 or 6 airbags ?

Nope. Ever-so-slightly better for highway. Better in stop-start depending on whether you play on-boost of not

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • oHBoy.
      Starter motor replacment teeth count.

      By oHBoy. · Posted

      I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • suko
      J50 clock date suddenly reset to January 1

      By suko · Posted

      The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...