Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's a 1500km (Adelaide to Alice Springs) drive to get back to him so I will just have to live with it for the time being. I will check and dress the dump and just get a 3.5 inch exhaust made to be certain I can rule that out.

I was told it was pinging so he got out of it straight away.

Should have done a run with exhaust dropped before the cat.

This is important, the exhaust side restriction on this turbo can affect your boost level and afr by lot. Usually once a free flow system is installed, it will be creeping boost using your current EBC settings and make your AFR run lean. In your case I will be getting my self a wide band gauge and touch up the fuel on WTO after the dump pipe is checked with new exhaust installed.

Also plug your boost gauge before the cooler and compare pressure differences to the graph.

I agree too lean, on 98RON especially at peak torque you want it rich.. nearly pig rich to keep it cooler.

When I work with 98, I drop it down to 11.5afr even richer depending on how small the turbo is. Larger turbos "breathe" better so there is a lower chance of knocking.

Before you start doing anything silly, how's your timing belt? best to take off the cover and turn your crank to TDC and see if everything is aligned correctly.

Timing belt hasn't been touched and never had an issue with last tune 12 months ago. Now has bigger turbo that should breathe alot better so maybe the exhaust is now a restriction. I will see what I can do to fatten it up in peak torque and at wot

Ha ha, love the workshop name.

I agree with the others though, that AFR graph looks a bit scary. Like the red one better.

I would be adding 10% more fuel across the board and then check the AFRs in the meantime mate just to keep things safe

Ha ha, love the workshop name.

I agree with the others though, that AFR graph looks a bit scary. Like the red one better.

I would be adding 10% more fuel across the board and then check the AFRs in the meantime mate just to keep things safe

I thought the general rule of thumb was 15:1 on cruise and 12:1 @ WOT?!

I realise different applications this would vary but the redline appears to be almost 10:1..........quite rich!?

Petrol tunes running afr of 12.0 flat is too lean id fatten that up at 20psi even more so if your trying to add more timing and there is inefficiencies in the system.

do most tuners really run 10.1-11.1 for the final tune at WOT?

seems a bit too rich, i can understand running that rich to iron out the lean spots and then bumping up the afr to 11-12 at WOT for the final tune

Edited by Dan_J

According to the tuner my wideband gauge reads leaner than his from the dyno.

Was looking at ign timing on the power fc at idle and it's showing 10 deg but I could've sworn my cas was set at 20 deg and it was marked and doesn't appear to have been moved.

If the idle ignition timing was initially in the ECU at 20* you want to set your base timing at 20* so obviously the ecu's adjustments are directly related to what is really happening at the crank angle he may have put it down to 10* while tuning.

Which means he has 10 degrees less timing @ idle.

Edited by mr skidz

Yeah it was idling high so the timing was pulled back to rectify that. I'm not about to adjust the cas as it was tuned for where it's at now.

ehh... wtf? come on man, if your tuna is doing that.. I would have many questions to ask.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.
    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
×
×
  • Create New...