Low Ignition Timing

[mr skidz]

Hunting from lumpy cams or HIGH?

What's high idle?

Edited March 17, 2016 by mr skidz

[Ben C34]

Did he check the timing was set correctly before the tune, or just assume.

[fmlycar]

I drove 1500km to get to the dyno and the car had developed a high idle after about 1200km of driving that day. Prior to that it was 1100 cold, 850-900 once warm. But when I got down to be tuned it was 1100 all the time. Not lumpy, just a smooth 1100. I couldn't be 100% that it was checked or it was assumed to be correct.

[mr skidz]

Car should not have been tuned until issue was rectified, otherwise it may need to be tuned again.

Could have a vacuum leak.

[fmlycar]

Whatever the case may be, I'm back in the middle of nowhere with little in the way of options other than to drive back down there or truck it. Not like I can just drop it off at a workshop for the day. Either that or fly someone here to look it over.

[mr skidz]

Surely there is someone there local that can help you find a vacuum leak, hoses, gaskets especially the inlet manifold gasket maybe try pressurising it through your intercooler with the car off see if you can hear leaks or try http://www.sau.com.au/forums/index.php?/topic/110431-Diy-Aac-Valve-Cleaning-&-Idle-Reset.

And please tell me you didn't drive your car for that distance on the power fc base map

Edited March 17, 2016 by mr skidz

[fmlycar]

No it wasn't base map, it had been tuned a year ago and had been adjusted via the hand controller using my wideband recently.

Finding a vac leak isn't an issue, having it re-tuned is. I traveled halfway across the country and may well have to do it again.

[STATUS]

  On 14/03/2016 at 11:58 AM, fmlycar said:

Standard cas. He said it would only take 7 degrees and was expecting 12 or more. Power does seem low for the turbo but torque seems to be ok. Car made 263rwkw and 750nm of torque. Mainline dyno.

I'll have to pull the dump off and check that out Tao. If that's the case, I will drag out the die grinder and open it up a little and make sure it's all nice and smooth.

Thats about right, we have had a few on pump not able to crack 270, same thing timing limited. It works mint on E85 but unless you have a killer exhaust manifold and cooler it will struggle.

[fmlycar]

Might be time for an exhaust manifold and bigger exhaust then if that's the case.

Thanks for your input.

[STATUS]

  On 18/03/2016 at 7:05 AM, fmlycar said:

Might be time for an exhaust manifold and bigger exhaust then if that's the case.

Thanks for your input.

Tap a fitting into ex manifold and measure the pressure, i bet its crazy high

[fmlycar]

Lol I have no doubt you'd be right there

[fmlycar]

Have purchased datalogit, just going to source some knock detection gear and see what is what I guess. I'm going to throw some more fuel in at wot, even if it is "rich", I'll feel better for it. And the amount of time is spend in that region it won't hurt my economy much.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Look at your dyno graph and throw fuel in at peak torque, since you're on 98ron even low 11s is ok.

[fmlycar]

Yeah my last tune was low 11's.

Still have an issue with having to hold the throttle open on cold start for it not to die, I'm thinking this may be an iacv adjustment that'll fix that

[t_revz]

  On 18/03/2016 at 7:16 AM, STATUS said:

Tap a fitting into ex manifold and measure the pressure, i bet its crazy high

  On 18/03/2016 at 7:16 AM, fmlycar said:

Lol I have no doubt you'd be right there

For reference I have an Hypergear SS2, standard manifold opened up and port matched, bell mouth dump opened up and port matched as close as possible, 200cell cat and 2 straight through mufflers in 3 inch piping and I get 0.5psi back pressure max. I pulled heaps of metal out of the bell mouth entry. Well worth a look at yours to rule that out.

[fmlycar]

Cheers. Yeah when I get some time I'll pull everything off and whip out the die grinder. Exhaust only has a mid muffler and rear cannon. Was considering removing the mid muffler or replacing it with something that is documented to flow more than I need. I'm willing to got 3.5 inch cat back if that's what it takes. I'm not worried about noise, as long as it doesn't drone

[t_revz]

With a decat yours should be better or equal to mine. Back pressure test is simple and it's good to have confirmation instead of guessing if it's up to the task

[GTSBoy]

  On 26/03/2016 at 12:47 PM, t_revz said:

For reference I have an Hypergear SS2, standard manifold opened up and port matched, bell mouth dump opened up and port matched as close as possible, 200cell cat and 2 straight through mufflers in 3 inch piping and I get 0.5psi back pressure max. I pulled heaps of metal out of the bell mouth entry. Well worth a look at yours to rule that out.

We're not talking about back pressure in the exhaust pipe. We're talking in the MANIFOLD. On a street car you will find it will be up to double the boost pressure.

[t_revz]

  On 26/03/2016 at 1:04 PM, GTSBoy said:

We're not talking about back pressure in the exhaust pipe. We're talking in the MANIFOLD. On a street car you will find it will be up to double the boost pressure.

I realised after posting that's what Trent would have meant, I saw the comments about the dump pipe and misunderstood.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

  On 26/03/2016 at 12:34 PM, fmlycar said:

Still have an issue with having to hold the throttle open on cold start for it not to die, I'm thinking this may be an iacv adjustment that'll fix that

That's pretty poor form from a tuner.

Could also be mixture related, once you get a wideband on, it should provide you with more insight on what's going on.

Close to stoich or stoich on a cold motor, will stall, too rich on a cold motor will stall.