Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

jesus christ Borci, let it go man, why are you sticking so hard to your guns?

nistune is fine, personally if i was spending money to push to 400 i would like some safety features, i would go maffless as resolution may become an issue. there is a good argument to go haltec and a decent argument to stay nistune. there is still a good argument to go and spend allot more and get a motec or something.

BUT your banging on like he should rip out a nistune and spend money on a used pfc like a bad used car salesman, where was your valid point in this thread before you filled it with shit and arguments?

wtf are you talking about? I explained myself that everybody else was harping on about every other ECU under the sun like he somehow needed something OTHER than a Nistune, which he doesnt. So I threw the PFC in as another option if he HAD to change, and then everyone jumps on it exclaiming its the biggest piece of shit.

Also I don't know if we can use "Hectic software" as a selling point :P 90% of people who buy a Haltech, don't tune it themselves so theres no value in it for them.

But yes to set the story straight I went Nistune first because it was free, then I put a PowerFC on my car on loan, for free. So I have no bias when it comes to BUYING ECUs. The reason why I didn't buy a Haltech was cost, I don't have a NEED for its features, and neither do a large proportion of skyline owners. Might be a great ECU, but I'll be damned if I need anything more than what the latest Nistune offers with Flex and Launch Control (which I never even used).

Don't forget, PFC Pro had launch control many years ago :no:

  • Like 1

I bought my power fc for $400 with controller vs haltech $2100 new without additional additional sensors.

Flex is the ONLY reason i went haltech

what additional sensors?

I hear of everybody saying you have to buy extra sensors for haltech.

Apart from flex sensor and larger map sensor (due to the boost I want to run), I didn't need any other sensors other than factory.

My first set up was just plug ecu in, and run vac line to on board map sensor.

The latest vipecs are a great bit of kit. Easy to tune, loads enough functions for your requirements and great support. But, to be honest, you can have an m800 full tilt set up and it can run like a corolla from the 70s if you dont have the right people behind the keyboard.

I suggest you start looking for a great tuning yoda and then, with his guidance, go from there

  • Like 1

what additional sensors?

I hear of everybody saying you have to buy extra sensors for haltech.

Apart from flex sensor and larger map sensor (due to the boost I want to run), I didn't need any other sensors other than factory.

My first set up was just plug ecu in, and run vac line to on board map sensor.

You don't HAVE to buy additional sensors but those who run a Haltech run a HALTECH for FLEX reasons.

flex tunes want boost and ethanol, so you'll need the content sensor and the 3 bar map sensor which is exactly what you just mentioned.

Add them to the price as well.

temperature and pressure sensors & O2 wideband kit is also more again if you want to use haltechs wonderful features you'll need all of the senses to read them obviously just stating it doesn't stop at $2100 to fully utilise it's features.

The price difference between a brand new power fc djetro and a haltech is less than $200...(brand new) and that's not counting shipping for the fc.

Why on god's earth would you buy one over the haltech? You literally waste $500 on a tune if in 12 months you want more than what the fc offers. Haltech has the future proof. It's literally a no brainer

  • Like 1

5 pages and OP hasn't been back since page 1. Question asked and answered on page 1.

What he has will get him what he wants with a couple of cheap 2nd hand larger AFM's.

the rest is cage rattling

Edited by Anonymouse
  • Like 3

5 pages and OP hasn't been back since page 1. Question asked and answered on page 1.

What he has will get him what he wants with a couple of cheap 2nd hand larger AFM's.

the rest is cage rattling

Why not a single R35 AFM?

You don't HAVE to buy additional sensors but those who run a Haltech run a HALTECH for FLEX reasons.

flex tunes want boost and ethanol, so you'll need the content sensor and the 3 bar map sensor which is exactly what you just mentioned.

Add them to the price as well.

temperature and pressure sensors & O2 wideband kit is also more again if you want to use haltechs wonderful features you'll need all of the senses to read them obviously just stating it doesn't stop at $2100 to fully utilise it's features.

I bought mine because it was the best option at the time.

In my eyes, still is.

Didn't have a lot of the features it does now (one of the reasons I bought it, free software updates).

Now has flat shift, launch control, anti lag and flex capabilities.

And at only 1800 delivered.

This was when the platinum pro plug in was only a couple of months old.

I'm on my 3rd tune (different set ups and engines), and still loving it.

Each to their own.

+ wideband 02 feedback

+ 2-step, launch

+ flex

+ engine protection

+ no MAF

+ hectic software

+ no need for data logit box shit

+ usb plug wooooo, serial is homo

+ much much more, we'll even included a set of steak knives.

A fancy list of can dos does not make it a good ecu

People are seeming to miss what makes a good ECU, and that is running the blood engine the way the tuner wants it to run when the tuner wants it to run in the direction it is supposed to be running

A fancy list of can dos does not make it a good ecu

People are seeming to miss what makes a good ECU, and that is running the blood engine the way the tuner wants it to run when the tuner wants it to run in the direction it is supposed to be running

ive seen this video and am still skeptical of it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...