Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello every one!

I recently bought a skyline gts-t rb25, and I need to replace the clutch because it is slipping. I have been trying to research but cannot decide what would be best for my needs.

I will only be driving on the road, and not track, and the car is not highly modded. I understand a puck or ceramic button type would not be suitable for this.
Therefore I would not like something with an extreme clamp pressure? what is the stock clutches clamp pressure ? what is high ? what is low ? is this the only thing that effects stiffness of the pedal?

Is it worth getting a "heavy duty" clutch? or will this be too stiff or cause unnecessary wear and tear ?

what is meant by stage, 1, 2 ,3 and 4 clutches ?

what are the pros/cons between single and multiple plate clutches? are they equal in difficulty to install ?

Also finally, I would like to ask, if the clutch has been slipping, how likely it is the flywheel may be damaged and need replacing?? (I know you can get it machined, I just mean cracked or scorched or whatever.)

I whole heartedly thank anyone who can help me with advice, or perhaps link me to some already on the internet.

xoxo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465109-which-clutch-to-buy/
Share on other sites

Same clutch here. Glad to know yours is holding up fine at that level, hoping to nudge 350kw when I install my 30DET.

Same here. 4 years on NPC 10" single plate carbotic. 2 years on 300kw 25. 2 years on 340kw 25/30 and has done 6/7 drift days and thousands of street km.

Same here. 4 years on NPC 10" single plate carbotic. 2 years on 300kw 25. 2 years on 340kw 25/30 and has done 6/7 drift days and thousands of street km.

have done the cheeky 2nd gear clutch dump stationary too :)

have done the cheeky 2nd gear clutch dump stationary too :)

I have done more than my fair share of that too haha. Have dropped third on the spot with shitty old 215's as well haha. Decided I should cut that out because I really do like my gearbox

haha 2nd and 3rd are being being too gentle I do 4th stationary limiter drops nismo twin and box still live on haha

  • Like 1

Exedy Cushion Button :yes:

No

Mine failed after about 8 months with 250rwkw

NPC is much better. Never ever had a drama. Got it rebuilt when I put my new engine in but that was only to extend the life. Still looked great after 3 years

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...