Jump to content
SAU Community

Methanol / Water injection?


Recommended Posts

Did a search and came up EMPTY in this category which surprised me actually.

I have the Hypertune V2 manifold which has 12 bosses for fuel injectors and I'm thinking of using the other 6 (currently not drilled through) injector ports for water injection nozzles. I have seen where water/methanol injection consistently beats 116 octane fuel when used on top of 93 octane and I'm thinking this may be perfect for my streetcar. Does anyone here have any experience with this setup?

I am at the limit of 93 octane at about 20 psi boost on my 850cc injectors currently and have a pretty good fuel pump for it (AEM 380 LPH pump) so I'd like to keep from changing over to an E85 system for now (which would require another fuel pump, bigger injectors (1300cc), lowered fuel mileage, etc). The Haltech has extra PWM ouptus and I have a couple of digital relays here, so I'm thinking of installing a water/methanol system which will be controlled VIA Haltech.

I'm not sure what it does to the wideband reading, and I'd like to see if anyone has a "go-by" of sorts for setup (nozzle sizes, AFR targets, etc).

EDIT- I think I have calculated for 25 psi boost and 50/50 mix of water/methanol I would need about 800-1,000 mL/min of total injection rate. I'd likely start with 30% duty cycle and ramp this up with my power levels from 15 psi up (probably some ratio of fuel injector rate) up to 25 psi. So I'm planning on using (6x) 1.9 GPH nozzles and building a kit. I'll likely get the snow box to ensure flow during running as well (assuming this can be read by the Haltech).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have the SPIII kit on my Gts25t but its a single point injection..........so I'm not even close to what you are doing.  And there is plenty on here about WMI, but in all the discussions Mafia or I and others have started, I can't remember anyone on SAU talking about 6 injection points or the setup you are looking at.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Search wmi or meth perhaps.

Pretty sure the thread n it was discussed as recently as last month so maybe just scroll down a few pages of topics even.

Would there be any issues doing it multi port, or benefits over single port?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This topic has actually had fairly extensive coverage on these very forums and there are a few threads that are actually quite recent.

 

You will NOT want to inject at the runners.  You want the water to go in as early as you can to give it some time to evaporate.  So into plenum or intercooler pipe is generally considered to be better.

 

Do as instructed above.  Search some more.  Don't use the forum's own search function - they are usually as weak as piss.  Use google and point google to just sau.com.au.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You still need more fuel.. so if you're at your so called limits then you'll need to upgrade your fuel system.

As you inject water/meth your mixtures will lean out, thus requiring you to ram in more fuel. Basic rule, tune for under 11:1 AFR for Gasoline, and inject water/meth to you bring your mixtures back to high 11s. Then start advancing timing... in your case you don't need to advance timing as you're already running so much for Gasoline I'm suspecting you're nosing over MBT for that rpm vs. load.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Benefits of multiport are the same as same for nitrous. Ensuring the same amount of protection goes to all cylinders. I would also add a 7th larger nozzle post-intercooler to reduce overall temp as well

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

You still need more fuel.. so if you're at your so called limits then you'll need to upgrade your fuel system.

As you inject water/meth your mixtures will lean out, thus requiring you to ram in more fuel. Basic rule, tune for under 11:1 AFR for Gasoline, and inject water/meth to you bring your mixtures back to high 11s. Then start advancing timing... in your case you don't need to advance timing as you're already running so much for Gasoline I'm suspecting you're nosing over MBT for that rpm vs. load.

Actually I'm reading the opposite of this from the manufacturers.

I'm running 6x 850cc Bosch EV14 injectors. They run very well. Seeing about 85% duty at 8k rpms and 18 psi boost. Also I'm at 19.9 deg of timing and no knock up there. I'm at about 24 deg timing at 7k rpms and it slowly dives down from there to the almost 20 deg.

1) a single injector in the post-intercooler stream will reduce intake temperatures which can help REDUCE power LOSS from heatsoak, but only makes more power IF: the AFR is adjusted on engine, the boost is raised, or the timing is bumped. If none of these are changed the engine will be likely more reliable, yet make less power.

2) They are saying that meth/water injection makes the mixture richer and reduces power initially if no other changes are made. Makes sense because methanol is a fuel after all and water is reducing the combustion temps in the cylinder which effectively should be robbing some amount of heat energy that normally turns into POWER. That being said, I think the additional ACTUAL octane of the methanol is marginal and is not what is making then engine safer to run higher boost and more advanced ignition timing...

Using the SNOW performance table here where I'm at currently (18 psi boost about 600 HP) they suggest a 624 cc/min (or mL/min same units) of injection rate. This means that really I could use an extra fuel injector (IF they atomized as well as water injection nozzles - which they don't) to inject the water/meth. Given a 50/50 mix the additional fuel is still around 310cc/min of extra raw methanol. Granted, methanol is supposed to run SIGNIFICANTLY RICHER than Gasoline so this amount of actual added octane due to the additional methanol is negligible IMO.

The benefit of a single fogger nozzle is that it cools the intake charge and having this upstream of my IAT sensor (which is smack in the middle of my manifold) would allow me to compensate for the decreased IATs.

The benefit of the multiple nozzles would be the ensure that I am getting the same amount of actual fluid injected to each cylinder as opposed to relying on the single fogger to distribute to all cylinders equally. I would say that this is the real purpose of the methanol as it would evaporate significantly quicker into the airstream and keep the vapor more evenly distributed in the air stream through the runners.

My goals would be to:

1) Leave the low end power level where it is at about 16 psi or so. Perhaps only inject on top end or at boost onset to keep the max torque from causing detonation. Stretch my boost out to 20 psi and see what it can do with WMI and more timing. Since the injectors could be leaned out (and I'm currently at 85% at 8k rpms at 18 psi) I think the meth/water will allow me to stretch these 850cc's out a bit more and the timing advance is simply easy free'd up horsepower at this point. This will max out my 850cc injectors I'm sure. Then once I get comfortable with this...

2) Change fuel injectors to 1,000cc see if I could support 24-25 psi reliably on the water injection and 93 pumpgas. I doubt I would want more than this amount of horsepower at that point because I would be worried the trans would totally grenade.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With the SPIII kit you can set the unit to idc and psi.  Plus you can start at say 14psi and have it all in by 18psi, and at the same time 60% idc and all in by 75% say.

I wouldn't leave it just for the top end, I would start my ramp up earlier and have the benefits already happening but ramping to max as you and where you need it most.  So I wouldn't just be thinking top end.

Its been a while [cos it just works], but I think mine is set to 8 and 14 psi and 40 and 75 idc.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, tridentt150v said:

With the SPIII kit you can set the unit to idc and psi.  Plus you can start at say 14psi and have it all in by 18psi, and at the same time 60% idc and all in by 75% say.

I wouldn't leave it just for the top end, I would start my ramp up earlier and have the benefits already happening but ramping to max as you and where you need it most.  So I wouldn't just be thinking top end.

Its been a while [cos it just works], but I think mine is set to 8 and 14 psi and 40 and 75 idc.

  I can build the whole table in the Haltech as well and just have it run the injector solenoid on PWM. I'd like to see how to wire in their little fail-safe flowmeter though as I'm out of 5v inputs. I may just run one of their kits with a couple of nozzles to get to 20 psi and try the individuals later when I want to run more with more fuel.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, I need to get this HKS SLD attached to my stock ECU because I've now got the German autobahn and faster European circuits to contend with.  The car is a manual 2dr ER34 with an AT ECU and I've realised the AT ECU has two pins for speed sensor signals: Pin 29: Vehicle speed sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 2) Pin *58: Output shaft rotation sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 1) - *RB25DET A/T model only Before I go butchering this harness, is anyone sure of which pin is the correct one for signal adjustment? The attached document from HKS indicates pin 29 but I found this situation mentioned in the following thread on a different forum (R34 GTT Auto Trans Speed Cut Problem | Zerotohundred) mentioning pin 58 needing to be altered by member zephuros, albeit it seems to be for an RSM-GP and the info appears to be old.  R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-2.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-3.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-1.pdf HKS SLD Vehicle Pin out P59-P70 ER34-pages.pdf
    • Embrace the freedom of casual encounters on the best dating app in town! Verified Maidens Superlative Сasual Dating
    • Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable. Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high.   
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
×
×
  • Create New...