Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've searched for these with no luck so here goes:

  1. Does anyone know where to get a BM50 brake master cylinder rebuild kit for the R34 GTT OEM BMC?
     
  2. Is the BM57 a plug-and-play upgrade over the BM50? Would I retain existing brake bias and ABS with it? The idea is to go bigger (front) brakes in the future so if upgrading BM57 is similar cost to rebuilding the BM50 that might be the go.
     
  3. Does anyone know if the R34 GT brake booster is the same as R34 GTT? The part numbers seem different but I'm not sure if the P/N is for the booster+master combo, and the GT master is definitely the smaller BM44.

Thanks guys.

  • Like 1

Have you tried Nissan for the rebuild kit? I put a BM57 in my S1 Stagea and retained the original brake booster.  I don't know if bias is different but I put a set of D2 330mm 8 pot brakes on the front and GTR 2 pot on rear and did not have any apparent problems with bias.

  • Like 2
2 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Have you tried Nissan for the rebuild kit? I put a BM57 in my S1 Stagea and retained the original brake booster.  I don't know if bias is different but I put a set of D2 330mm 8 pot brakes on the front and GTR 2 pot on rear and did not have any apparent problems with bias.

Good idea, I'll give that a go.

Does your ABS work ok on gravel/wet with the bigger master?
I'm actually pretty keen on the 330mm rotor size so I could retain my 2 sets of 17" GTT stockies, both with decent tyres...

24 minutes ago, V28VX37 said:

Good idea, I'll give that a go.

Does your ABS work ok on gravel/wet with the bigger master?
I'm actually pretty keen on the 330mm rotor size so I could retain my 2 sets of 17" GTT stockies, both with decent tyres...

Yes still got ABS. I believe D2 brakes sold in Aus as K sport or suchlike. Duncan has a set on one or more of his cars. Or GTR Brembos are 324mm. You may need to check if stock GTT wheels will fit over. I have used 17in Rays and 18in Skyline wheels.

  • Like 2

Have you pulled your MC apart to see if it is badly scored etc? If not a rebuild kit should be fine.

If you do want a new one Just Jap seem to have them for 395

http://justjap.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Brake+Master+Cylinder

Have you pulled your MC apart to see if it is badly scored etc? If not a rebuild kit should be fine.

If you do want a new one Just Jap seem to have them for 395

http://justjap.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Brake+Master+Cylinder


Thanks mate. I haven't pulled it out yet as I'd prefer at least installing some new seals before putting it back together.

I reckon I'll start with bleeding the abs unit as per the above instructions to see if that improves it at all.
  • 2 weeks later...

Has anyone heard of HFM or used their parts? Their BM57 alternative is a decent price, pic below: https://hfm.parts/shop/brakes/nissan-bm57-brake-master-cylinder-abs/

Looks like it's a Chinese re-manufacture of the original Nissan BM57: https://www.facebook.com/gktech/photos/a.479905785391677.98225.133362883379304/729676497081270/ 

HFM-BM57ABS.png

Do not use hfm bmc. Im not sure if anyone has had success with one but a lot of people have had major issues. The only parts they sell that are any good are their brake calliper adapters for R33 and S15. Just about everything else is junk unfortunately. I recently bought some of their calliper adaptors but wasn't game on trying out their rotors. LOL.

  • Like 1

I rang Race Brakes, they don't have the rebuild kit but suggested testing the master cylinder first.

I've just done the following:

  1. Car off
  2. Pump brake several times, stiff pedal
  3. Put tape measure next to the pedal
  4. Apply consistent brake pressure
  5. Measure pedal drop

I did this for 30 sec (max attention span) and there was zero pedal drop, so it seems like the master seals ok?

EDIT: I also just watched some vids on vacuum assisted brake boosters. I've always had this thing where in traffic lights, applying the same pressure, the pedal drop slightly after a while. Understanding now a bit more how a brake booster works, this could be the engine idle revs increasing ever so slightly > more vacuum > more brake boost > increased drop for same pedal pressure. Does this make sense?

14 hours ago, V28VX37 said:

I rang Race Brakes, they don't have the rebuild kit but suggested testing the master cylinder first.

I've just done the following:

  1. Car off
  2. Pump brake several times, stiff pedal
  3. Put tape measure next to the pedal
  4. Apply consistent brake pressure
  5. Measure pedal drop

I did this for 30 sec (max attention span) and there was zero pedal drop, so it seems like the master seals ok?

EDIT: I also just watched some vids on vacuum assisted brake boosters. I've always had this thing where in traffic lights, applying the same pressure, the pedal drop slightly after a while. Understanding now a bit more how a brake booster works, this could be the engine idle revs increasing ever so slightly > more vacuum > more brake boost > increased drop for same pedal pressure. Does this make sense?

Yep. To confirm try the brake pedal first thing in the morning before starting the engine. Hit it a few times to make sure there is no vacuum left,  pause,  and then push down on the pedal and see how it feels.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...