Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Appreciate the comments, I should add more info

I get I shouldn't need additives for the OS Giken fluid, though its made for OS Giken riffs, not Nismo. Is there a difference that is relevant here? I surely don't know..

I haven't tried any other oil since the conversion and diff rebuild was done. Previously, all thinner oils worked amazingly (I.e normally) but would exit the diff within.. 300km of normal road driving. I don't know for sure if this behaviour persists post diff rebuild.

The tailshaft is new, so recently balanced. From what I know the uni was fine (fine enough for driveljne shop to say 'nah its fine' when asked.

The gearbox and engine mounts and diff mounts are all new. I mean I changed every piece of Nissan rubber in the car. Every bit!

The only thing I can think of is my car has a set of pineapples in 'Max grip' configuration. Given the fact this doesn't feel like tyre skipping (it feels like the subframe is going to fall out levels of clunk) then perhaps this has something to do with it.

None of the cars I've driven have had those pineapples installed. Or 'subframe alignment bushes' I think is the correct term. I did also replace the entire subframe with a non-hicas subframe, so can rule the subframe itself out as a cause.

I think based on this info I will try removing the pineapples to see if this changes anything. With less power back there now I probably don't need the level of squat I've had in the past.

4 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

Appreciate the comments, I should add more info

I get I shouldn't need additives for the OS Giken fluid, though its made for OS Giken riffs, not Nismo. Is there a difference that is relevant here? I surely don't know..

I haven't tried any other oil since the conversion and diff rebuild was done. Previously, all thinner oils worked amazingly (I.e normally) but would exit the diff within.. 300km of normal road driving. I don't know for sure if this behaviour persists post diff rebuild.

The tailshaft is new, so recently balanced. From what I know the uni was fine (fine enough for driveljne shop to say 'nah its fine' when asked.

The gearbox and engine mounts and diff mounts are all new. I mean I changed every piece of Nissan rubber in the car. Every bit!

The only thing I can think of is my car has a set of pineapples in 'Max grip' configuration. Given the fact this doesn't feel like tyre skipping (it feels like the subframe is going to fall out levels of clunk) then perhaps this has something to do with it.

None of the cars I've driven have had those pineapples installed. Or 'subframe alignment bushes' I think is the correct term. I did also replace the entire subframe with a non-hicas subframe, so can rule the subframe itself out as a cause.

I think based on this info I will try removing the pineapples to see if this changes anything. With less power back there now I probably don't need the level of squat I've had in the past.

I had "pineapples" in my diff too so doubt its the cause but easy to try I guess. Wouldn't have thought it would get that hot with normal road use. If you can get it up on a hoist you could try various things with a pry bar to see where there is excessive movement.

Here is a PDF from OS Giken warning against using added friction modifiers:

The Importance of OS250R.pdf

  • Like 1

I am tempted to get a gopro under there to get and figure out what is going on!

I will adjust the pineapples to just see.. but it is good to know that that isn't the cause at least.

I don't know If the run in procedure needs to run. Given I bought it 2nd hand, couldn't possibly still need a run in? I assumed simply driving on the damn thing for thousands and thousands of km would do that right? Did buy it used back in the day...

I had a knock from the rear end. I replaced the diff, drive shafts, shocks and various bits and pieces to no avail. Drove me nuts for months, in the end i bought some chassis ears and found the problem in less than 5 minutes. Was a loose bolt on one of the brackets that connects to the subframe.

I still have the chassis ears, they're just microphones on alligator clips that you attach on various points you suspect. You're welcome to borrow them, im located in Springvale south, not too far from you. Pm me if you want to give them a go.

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...