Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Engine Carbon Clean?

Hi,

My daily ride is a Subaru.  Dealership and the local mechanic do the good 'ol "tune up in a can" and spray the upper cylinder cleaner in then out the exhaust is a black haze of built up carbon deposits.  I'm wary of miracle cans (besides WD40) but enter Engine Carbon Clean.  Doing some digging, they started in the UK and have spread their wings to VIC.  Can't find a bad review, but can find before/after on same day dyno runs and the results look good.

I'm thinking about rolling the dice and giving it a crack on the GTR.  Thought I'd throw it out there, anyone done this or similar before?

Cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467478-engine-carbon-clean/
Share on other sites

Always a bit wary of these products:

1.  Why is your engine so gunked up it needs this stuff, better addressing the issue?

2. If its a new rebuild and its done right then you shouldn't need it anyway.

3. If its an older motor and you use it the chances are you will remove the carbon that the motor has come to rely - the results could be worse performance/reliability.

4. What end result do you hope to get out of doing it?  is it worth it?

5. How often do you intend doing it?  Every 5K, 10K etc?

Maybe if you purchased a low mileage car driven by granma to bingo [where the oil never ever got warm], and it needed a fresh start in life, but otherwise I can't see the benefit.

 

 

when i had the head off recently replacing head gasket, i used the liqi-moly carbon cleaner to get rid of the carbon buildup on top of the pistons (rb25det). It worked well, in that it really dissolved it, but even then some small spots took heaps, letting it sit, and then some scrubbing to get them removed completely. Pistons looked great afterwards though. So not sure how much carbon these products would remove if just sprayed into the intake, doesn't seem they would remove the really caked on stuff...and don't know how long it would take before it builds up again?

.... So not sure how much carbon these products would remove if just sprayed into the intake, doesn't seem they would remove the really caked on stuff...and don't know how long it would take before it builds up again?


The Subaru can spray is part of a regular service. Spray and idle I believe. AFAIK the Engine Carbon Clean mob take 30+ minutes to finish up the job. I'm waiting for a call back and I'm going to ask a stack of questions.

Keep in mind all those euros and the VQ carbon build up thread are all for direct injection motors. They get heaps of build-up in the intake side, unlike regular fuel injected motors. So their power "gains" are going to be much more significant than yours.



  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...