Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone

I'm shopping around for 6mm hub centric (66.1) wheels spacers 4x114.3 . I've found a place who will make them for $90 but I want to find a cheaper price. There's a lot of non - hub centric spacers around for a lot less.

Know of any good deals?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467588-wheel-spacers/
Share on other sites

you wont buy hub centric spacers that thin, 10mm will be the thinnest you will get, and as @niZmO_Man said GKTech. At the end of the day they will set you back $100 for the set off 4. Stud centric spacers are cheap for a reason. They are illegal and more dangerous.

Edited by Coullsy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467588-wheel-spacers/#findComment-7789136
Share on other sites

23 hours ago, R-sanichi said:

 

Hi everyone

I'm shopping around for 6mm hub centric (66.1) wheels spacers 4x114.3 . I've found a place who will make them for $90 but I want to find a cheaper price. There's a lot of non - hub centric spacers around for a lot less.

Know of any good deals?

 

 

2 hours ago, R-sanichi said:

@Nizmo_man I tried GKTech. They only sell 10mm and thinker.

Hi I had mine made at a local engineering shop, 2 6m spacers $40, hope this easy solution helps, Jamind

Edited by jamind
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467588-wheel-spacers/#findComment-7789208
Share on other sites

OK but GK Tech 10mm are probably the best you can do off the shelf (although you will need longer studs). If you can get 4 made for $90 that is the same as Jaminds $40 for 2.

http://www.gktech.com/index.php/4-5x114-3-10mm-hub-centric-slip-on-spacers.html

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467588-wheel-spacers/#findComment-7789309
Share on other sites

This whole conversation is hurting my head.  For a start, we're looking for a cheaper price than $90 for 4x spacers.  Are these being used on an R31?  Because only R31 owners are that busted arse broke that $90 seems like you should be searching for a cheaper price.

Then there's the thought that you can even make a 6mm spacer that will correctly locate on the hub centre behind it AND provide an equivalent hub lip on the front side.....the chances of which are pretty much f**k all anyway.

Then we have the thought that, "no matter, I'll just carry on as if I hadn't been told that" and keep seeing if there is a way to get them made in New f**king Zealand, and then pay for them to be shipped to Australia, and still expect them to be less than the $90 price obtained locally.

Oh.  My.  f**king. God!

  • Like 3
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467588-wheel-spacers/#findComment-7789322
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...