Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone

I'm shopping around for 6mm hub centric (66.1) wheels spacers 4x114.3 . I've found a place who will make them for $90 but I want to find a cheaper price. There's a lot of non - hub centric spacers around for a lot less.

Know of any good deals?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467588-wheel-spacers/
Share on other sites

you wont buy hub centric spacers that thin, 10mm will be the thinnest you will get, and as @niZmO_Man said GKTech. At the end of the day they will set you back $100 for the set off 4. Stud centric spacers are cheap for a reason. They are illegal and more dangerous.

Edited by Coullsy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467588-wheel-spacers/#findComment-7789136
Share on other sites

23 hours ago, R-sanichi said:

 

Hi everyone

I'm shopping around for 6mm hub centric (66.1) wheels spacers 4x114.3 . I've found a place who will make them for $90 but I want to find a cheaper price. There's a lot of non - hub centric spacers around for a lot less.

Know of any good deals?

 

 

2 hours ago, R-sanichi said:

@Nizmo_man I tried GKTech. They only sell 10mm and thinker.

Hi I had mine made at a local engineering shop, 2 6m spacers $40, hope this easy solution helps, Jamind

Edited by jamind
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467588-wheel-spacers/#findComment-7789208
Share on other sites

OK but GK Tech 10mm are probably the best you can do off the shelf (although you will need longer studs). If you can get 4 made for $90 that is the same as Jaminds $40 for 2.

http://www.gktech.com/index.php/4-5x114-3-10mm-hub-centric-slip-on-spacers.html

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467588-wheel-spacers/#findComment-7789309
Share on other sites

This whole conversation is hurting my head.  For a start, we're looking for a cheaper price than $90 for 4x spacers.  Are these being used on an R31?  Because only R31 owners are that busted arse broke that $90 seems like you should be searching for a cheaper price.

Then there's the thought that you can even make a 6mm spacer that will correctly locate on the hub centre behind it AND provide an equivalent hub lip on the front side.....the chances of which are pretty much f**k all anyway.

Then we have the thought that, "no matter, I'll just carry on as if I hadn't been told that" and keep seeing if there is a way to get them made in New f**king Zealand, and then pay for them to be shipped to Australia, and still expect them to be less than the $90 price obtained locally.

Oh.  My.  f**king. God!

  • Like 3
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467588-wheel-spacers/#findComment-7789322
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...