Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ken's z31 I wanna go fast build

I am Ken from the Seattle area USA. I bought my 1985 300zx GLL non turbo 5 speed in 2011 with the impression it had blown head gaskets which only an RB  swap would remedy. I replaced the bad thermostat and drove it for 4 years.

Opportunities arose and I purchased a wrecked 87 300zx with what I assumed was a stock rb20 silver top and 5 speed swap for $800 usd. Car had been sitting for 6 years after the owner wrecked.

 

image.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467848-kens-z31-i-wanna-go-fast-build/
Share on other sites

Engine was siezed so I started to take it apart. What I found blew me away. 

Internal:

.015" over custom Wiesco pistons

spool rods

full balanced rotating assembly oil snout to pressure plate 

spec stage 3 6 puck sprung clutch and flywheel 

acl bearings 

hks step 1 cams 264/264 

adjustable cam  gears and greddy timing belt

bolt on:

rc racing 750cc injectors 

precission 5557e dual ball bearing with billet wheel 

z32 maf 

aeromotive fpr 

Nistune type 2 board 

The list of parts well exceeded my $800 paid for the siezed block. 

I discovered the heard was ported by a hydroplane mechanic. 

I have no idea as to what power the car made or what psi the tune was done at. All the info I have is the car ran for two weeks and then it was totaled.

Welded in a nipple for the iacc and Aacv as well as a flange for the synapse engineering synchronic bov.

Also a 3 core s13 radiator modded to fit and a custom made shroud for the 14" fan. Unsure on cfm but the shop who built the car for the previous owner had used an oem vgz31 radiator and shroud with this fan tucked inside very crudely. Lower coolant hose is fitted with a temp switch for the fan relay.

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

  • Like 1

Also when the previous owner of my 85 had taken the car in for diagnostic the brilliant mechanic decided to dump head gasket stop leak into the system and I did not want to chance the  heater core to fail and fill my fresh rb and radiator with stop leak. 

My Z has modded knuckles, running s13 Lcas and tie rods with the rack moved forward 25mm to prevent over centering. Of course I have no pictures of my own parts. S13 coil overs front and rear and s14 tension rods. Welded diff and poly bushings but one day will have s13 subframe.

I will attempt to snag some photos in the day light. 

Edited by Zrbsliding

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...