Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

SKYLINE WONT START ! HELP !!

So hear me out first guys, hear the full story it might help !!

i changed my Blitz Pod filter to a K&N one

Car was running fine, and on my way back home I decided to give it abit in the tunnels, after giving it all the sudden my car started choking or chugging and I thought my engine died, but it was still running, it runs fine till I step on the pedal half way it chugs and struggles and pretty much wont let me Go over 3,000 RPM so I thought maybe it's the POD that's acting up the AFM cause it felt like it was the case.

 

So the next day I changed it back to the Blitz that I originally had earlier on and went to drive it around and it was back to normal "woooooooo" and as I got close to home it did it again the chugging and choking like it was gonna die, so I was f.. could it be my spark plug or coils. 

So the next day I changed my Spark Plug, it was a BKR5EIX-11 which isn't recommended but I had it laying around so I replaced it, my old spark plug was black and burnt on the tip so I thought yeah maybe this should do the trick!

Plug everything back in and.... 

it CRANKS AND STARTS FOR A SPLIT SECOND AND immediately dies out and I only have one conclusion left, the Coilpacks but I want to see what you guys think

 

-every hose is plugged in correctly and tightly 

-strange thing is that before I change the spark plug the car was running but a weak start up so I thought Spark plug but now I don't even know anymore.

PLEASE HELP ME GUYS !! Could it be the coilpacks ?? Could the spark plug have anything to do with it, even if it's not recommended it should still start up, it's gapped at 1.1 which is how the plugs came (Bkr5eix-11)

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467861-skyline-wont-start-help/
Share on other sites

I replaced it with bkr5eix11 cause I had it sitting in my rooms for years for my NA/R34 which was recommended. And nah doesn't seem like a fuel issue, I got half a tank and I can definitely hear the fuel pump just before starting the car

From what we can tell the only thing changed was the filter, I would look at the Maf extensively to check for damage.

My car would not start and sputtered going into boost when the plugs were fouled. Also check for ground wire to coil packs/ignitor. 

 

Have you considered that it could coincidentally be an alternator or battery that is no good? It's a big leap, but you should probably just check how many volts you have on the battery terminals before and during cranking. 

33 minutes ago, Jonic said:

The ecu is stock and fuel line is good, I think it's the AFM since I change the Pod around and maybe it bounce around too much and played up perhaps

Well just unplug it and see if it starts.

LOL so I tried starting her up after work and guess what, it started weak and actually stayed on, Tried it again 10mins later and wallah it's starting up and running all good again ! Haha what a confusing moment, what in the world happen ??

Now everything it out back together the car runs but the PROBLEM OF THE LIMP MODE IS STILL THERE !! I can't even rev pass 2000rpm, even when parked! Something must be playing up and I'm thinking it's the AIR FLOW METER. Ever since I changed the Pod Filter the problem started, but the thing is I changed it back to normal but it's still limping, I can't even hit 60Kms on the road :0

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
×
×
  • Create New...