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From my own perception, the Bose system does indeed sound better than the Clarion system. That said, though reasonably better than my BA wagon's crap, I consider both versions to be shite anyway.

However, as I outlined in my write up on upgrading one's sound system in a V36, for the sake of making the installation an easier process, it is better to get a vehicle with the Bose system so that you can minimise rewiring in the vehicle if you decide to run split component speakers front and rear, unless you aim to push huge amounts of power, that is.

The Bose head unit is actually worse than the Clarion if you put an aftermarket amp into the car. The amount of crap it outputs is amazing. White noise galore. Had to install a processor to get rid of all the crap

What kind of processor? Neither system is terribly clean but by design, the Bose should be cleaner as it feeds the OEM amp in the boot with a balanced line level signal. With a good DSP, it should be able to take advantage of that balanced feed and therefore significantly reduce any analogue issues. If you tried to just feed those line level signals straight into an aftermarket amp without any balanced to unbalanced matching transformers at least, if not a well-designed DSP, then I'm not surprised you got the noise.

Anyway, for my ears, all car audio systems ideally need some kind of DSP. Just a couple of tone and bass controls doesn't cut the mustard. Not all speakers are created equal, nor are amps, nor are the sources. Only when you have that detailed level of control will you squeeze the most out of it all and probably end up running it cleaner which means less abuse of your speakers.

Mine has a very slight DC offset, which gives a little white noise as a consequence. I could design a line driver which would process the DC offset out of the speaker leads but it's only noticeable at low volumes and I barely run mine below moderate.

i have had cars with both and bose is much cleaner at higher volume levels, its much clearer overall and better bass too. i would recommend wait for a Bose model to come up if u can, 

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We basically tried taking signals anywhere from the head unit to the factory amp in hopes to be able to get a decent signal. There wasn't much luck with powering a good set of speakers and subs. So we had to use aftermarket amps. In which we were met with pretty bad crappy signals. So now I have a bit ten installed. Boss head unit has own eq added onto the signal. Any signal you take coming from the head unit will already have the crappy eq added onto it. The DPS strips the signal down and gives the amp a clean signal to play with.

I'm not a big fan of how Bose has implemented the system and the speakers are pretty meh IMO. If you're gonna pay extra $$ for the Bose system, it may be cheaper or more worthwhile just getting the non Bose and put in aftermarket amps, speakers and subs.

  On 29/11/2016 at 5:23 AM, AsM said:
i have had cars with both and bose is much cleaner at higher volume levels, its much clearer overall and better bass too. i would recommend wait for a Bose model to come up if u can, 


Yeah Bose is cleaner n clearer due to the "better" amp and speakers over the non Bose.
  On 29/11/2016 at 5:23 AM, AsM said:

i have had cars with both and bose is much cleaner at higher volume levels, its much clearer overall and better bass too. i would recommend wait for a Bose model to come up if u can, 

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Same

  On 29/11/2016 at 6:58 AM, colin.ssc said:

We basically tried taking signals anywhere from the head unit to the factory amp in hopes to be able to get a decent signal. There wasn't much luck with powering a good set of speakers and subs. So we had to use aftermarket amps. In which we were met with pretty bad crappy signals. So now I have a bit ten installed. Boss head unit has own eq added onto the signal. Any signal you take coming from the head unit will already have the crappy eq added onto it. The DPS strips the signal down and gives the amp a clean signal to play with.

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Here's the thing though. You're feeding a balanced audio signal into an amp which likely only took unbalanced audio and at probably vastly different impedances too. If not properly matched, you will get the hiss/white noise you referred to. That has nothing to do with how Bose manipulate the audio through their built-in DSP. Sometimes you can get away with grounding the cold phase of a balanced signal directly but sometimes, if the impedance is way off, you need to use transformers (baluns) or active matching, which is what you've essentially achieved by using the Audison Bit.One, as I believe that also supports balanced and unbalanced inputs.

But then the EQ'ing and delays that they introduce to suit their speakers, I agree, you then need to use your own DSP to counteract all that so that you can flavour it to the aftermarket speakers you've decided on, as they'll have different characteristics. The Audison Bit.One is a pretty good unit, so you definitely did well there but that's the nature of adapting things that weren't necessarily made to be adapted.

Again, in my opinion, to do the sound right, all audio systems (home, professional and mobile) require DSPs to squeeze out the most performance out of your rig. I can't imagine not using a DSP in any scenario, personally.

  • 2 years later...

Hi, I had the bose set up in mine and it was shit!  Out of all the mods I've done ripping the factory bose HU/sat nav, amp and all speakers out and replacing with aftermarket was the best mod!

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