Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Haha f**k how did you manage that? I understand on RB30 ones which have cooked old crusty oil in the keyway preventing the 10mm hex key getting in there.

1 hour ago, niZmO_Man said:

Surprised you didn't put a V8 in already :P

2JZ-GTE VVT-i with a GTX4088R, twin gates, twin scroll would be my pick :)

But... I'm poor.

  • Like 1

Managed to get out the remaining head bolts by cleaning the head, removing all debris/oil/shit then hammering in a hex slightly the wrong size in.

Next surprise were the cylinders, dirtier than a Kings Cross hooker, surprisingly the cylinder bores were still good! Used a bit of elbow grease and cleaned them up and now sits ontop a thin layer of oil.

Head will be sent off next week the Hanoi fit new seals, retainers, springs, cams and possibly adjustment to shims  (if required).

20170426_223341.thumb.jpg.9eaba5c648978188132980f126e7fe73.jpg

20170501_222959.thumb.jpg.87a04bd34b6a299b6a9a69f8fb6f3ee8.jpg

  • Like 4
  • 2 weeks later...

head being sent off, getting a few basic things done:

  • light skim for straightness
  • a good clean because it's dirtier than a kings cross hooker
  • installation of stiffer valve springs, titanium retainers
  • installation of cams and shims check/replaced to suit

Also are R33 and R34 RB25DET balancers the same? well I know the R34 under drives the AC compared to the R33 one.. but are the ribs the same?

I have a R34 NEO going in but with R33 PS, AC.. so thought it would be best to use the R33 balancer for obvious reasons. Searching the site (on Google) didn't reveal any answers.

So used the gates website and I can see that both use the same ribs.. however length is different due to the drive:

4 Rib A/C Belt:
R34 RB25DET NEO is 915mm
R33 RB25DET S1/2 is 915mm

4 Rib Water Pump/Alternator Belt:
R34 RB25DET NEO is 890mm
R33 RB25DET S1/2 is  855mm

Turns out the R34 uses a 4 Rib Power Steering Belt and the R33 uses a 3 Rib.

Guess I've answered my own questions haha.

 

 

33 minutes ago, ActionDan said:

Still has pads? Weak source. They should be removed for 1000hp builds... Do it. 

No... I'm not a moron.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • How many of you guys run the synchro os giken set and at what power? Do you then also use the billet plate?  How is it launching with it, any dragy times from 0-60? 60ft?
    • Oh, also, forgot to add these photos I believe.
    • Thought i'd update on this. I was able to get in contact with Craig Lieberman and later on Darryl Alison (owner of Kaizo Industries). Darryl was able to help me verify that my car was in fact one of theirs and is helping me find more info on mine !
    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
×
×
  • Create New...