Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

2 hours ago, ActionDan said:

Also what rice body kit bits can we add to the missus Tiguan to make it look less mum spec? 

Maxton Designs do small lips and stuff that might suit your aesthetic needs.

Not sure if you got the PFL or FL MK2, just have a look here:

https://www.ausbodyworks.com.au/collections/tiguan

 

  • Like 1

Oh wow, these actually look quite nice. Might be a bit too subtle and still look mum spec though in my opinion.

What about wheels? I saw a Golf wagon the other day with some fancy rotiforms on it. Very unexpected and it looked great as they transformed the look of the whole car. Though depending on how the car is driven it may result in anguish having them murdered on curbs.

The 20s ride ok, just not with the Continental Contact Sport 5 it comes with. I've replaced them with Pirelli Scorpion Verde and it rides much better, albeit lost cornering grip and straight line traction.

I can blaze the front tyre(s) when I mash the pedal before the Haldex kicks in.

7 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Won't gutter the wheels as easily too 

The country doesn't have gutters. Just huge ditches on the side of the road... 😛

  • Haha 2
7 hours ago, MBS206 said:

The country doesn't have gutters. Just huge ditches on the side of the road... 😛

I went to a CFA call out, during that wet AF winter, thought I'll put my car off the side of the road to clear the way, woops, too far, dropped in up to the sill on the passenger side immediately, did call out, had a few goes at getting it out (had just switched back to road tyres, no good lol).

Chucked my rear hitch receiver onto the DELP guys car and used my winch to pull the noise back out onto the road lol

Scratched my rims too :(

So yeah, I love those ditches!

 

  • Sad 1

Sound deadening some more, repaired the OEM mat between the rear seat and boot, covered its mum in sound deadening too.

New Maxi Cosi Titan Pro seat in too, got it for $299 on sale with 2% cash back via Cash Rewards. Brings it down to $293!

PXL_20230914_031444332.thumb.jpg.3bfa0a9382ba14f960a24ab16b508423.jpg

PXL_20230914_041900405.thumb.jpg.aeba9364e4ef0f3f4b6181786ecbbdf2.jpg

PXL_20230914_052036236.thumb.jpg.0435e6e25c97b71499142ebdfed1aa4e.jpg

PXL_20230914_053514521.thumb.jpg.8dca9a342ed4f0663f86e775cc8115c5.jpg

  • Like 3

They did ok, when compared to Toyota. Ever seen a Chaser? 

Btw.. my sound deadening efforts was worth it. Cabin noise has dropped, once I do the front doors and the roof lining it's going to be 0.01% less shit overall.

  • Like 2
  • Haha 3
1 hour ago, ActionDan said:

Man, R33 interior is iconic to me, mad memories. 

The rear floor mats.

Even to this day I reckon are wickedly awesome!

 

Some days I wish I still had some of that stuff for mine rather than stripped out to be used for track work only. At the time though, someone needed a way to make it less street able so I would keep my license / not die.

40 minutes ago, MBS206 said:

The rear floor mats.

Even to this day I reckon are wickedly awesome!

 

Some days I wish I still had some of that stuff for mine rather than stripped out to be used for track work only. At the time though, someone needed a way to make it less street able so I would keep my license / not die.

The Yaris has the floor mats from my 86

They are the best part of the interior LOL

No more mods, car is done, etc.

image.thumb.png.3dd195362f2e2686743844fb0032680a.png

So turns out my tiny AF lift pump is still moving enough fuel to pressurise my surge tank and even the fuel rail when both surge pumps are off. I'm getting about 0.55bar of fuel pressure at the rail with the surge pumps off and only the lift pump running.

This means that the OEM venturi/siphon is causing a massive restriction, enough to build that pressure. I've been told it's not too much to be worried about, however the inner efficient Asian that I am says no!

Pressurisation of the surge tank & running the lift pump harder does three things:

  • degrades the surge pumps quicker
  • more load on the electrical system as the surge works harder
  • by product of the above, more heat is generated
  • (possibly point 4) more heat generated means all 3x pumps swim in a warmer fuel soup and degrade faster

So yeah, at some stage I will need to remove that stupid fuel tank lid/hat/cover whatever the fk you want to call it and pop off the OEM venturi/siphon and pop this one on - pretty straight forward really, just massive CBF as I will smell like shit and inhale heaps of petrol in the process.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...