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34 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

It beeped, confirming continuity. If it didn't, no issues.

I've watched multimeters beep at over 100ohms of resistance.

A continuity beep doesn't confirm a short, especially the less high end your multimeter is.

Measure actual resistance.

  • Like 1
7 hours ago, No Crust Racing said:

Just shortens the charge time and allows more serious "rejuvenation" if you ever use that. 

10/10 good buying. 

 

More amps is also useful in modern cars when diagnosing, since just having canbus networks alive will draw over 5amp to power the car, and that's before you actually "turn the electrics on".

Yep, I've flattened a few batteries while doing reverse engineering when I've forgotten to put the cars on the charger.

Have also had one of those Victron chargers Dose bought die and start spewing high voltages out of it too. That's a sample size of 1 though. Charger lasted about 18 months before doing so.

  • Like 1

Hmmm.. trying to theorise what else it can be.

Still don't understand how sparks were being thrown, and the clamps/connectors touch points started to glow.

It was like putting a spanner across the terminals.

More troubleshooting soon

 

47 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Hmmm.. trying to theorise what else it can be.

Still don't understand how sparks were being thrown, and the clamps/connectors touch points started to glow.

It was like putting a spanner across the terminals.

More troubleshooting soon

 

When they started to glow and crazy sparks, was the battery still in the car and connected to POS and negative?

What sort of battery is it? (Lithium, lead acid, etc?)

Is it possible you stuffed up the jump start and managed to get both POS and neg cables on a dead short through the skyline?

 

Check the resistance again, then disconnect the power cable on the alternator, and then measure that same resistance from POS pole to earth. Then measure alternators POS pole to alternator body (with cable disconnected).

Do the same on / with the starter motor.

Random thoughts, is it possible positive jumper lead was touching either that metal box, or the oil line beside it?

And just double check with battery disconnected there cables/connections aren't touching/resting on car body/other conductive material.

It could even be an amp cable has come lose and is shorting, however I suspect you have fuses close to the battery for amp power supply and they would have popped (though if one only have melted, it could be why you have a higher resistance to earth now and it's not popping, so I'd double check amp wires/fuses)

First time, battery connected, then I went to disconnect it (thinking maybe the battery is fked). Both times, HUGE sparks went flying and shit started to glow 🥲

I'm planning to do that next, unplug the alternator. Just a bit of a pain in the arse due to the plenum and DBW, but needs to be done.

Threw sparks even when I just touched the +VE jump point, even before letting go of the clamps. 

Good point about the amps, there's a 8 gauge going to a fuse block that splits into 2x 12 gauge. 

Going to be a fun process of elimination 

 

Nothing to do with issue, but checkout this link for a magnetic connector:

https://werksgruppe.com/pages/chargesafe

I always forget to hook mine up to charger and I’m convincing myself if I had this it would always be charged..

  • Like 1
45 minutes ago, R3N3 said:

Nothing to do with issue, but checkout this link for a magnetic connector:

https://werksgruppe.com/pages/chargesafe

I always forget to hook mine up to charger and I’m convincing myself if I had this it would always be charged..

Pretty cool

 

8 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

There's not a battery backup for an alarm siren or something that's somehow hot to the 12V rail?

No battery backup siren, I have a motorcycle siren in mine.

Liking the new charger, battery all good (I think).

Screenshot_20250509-082743.thumb.png.e87bdc7236ce9b17cac66c2db7144b6c.png

 

Also like how you can put it in power supply mode too. Will troubleshoot with that sometime soon.

Screenshot_20250509-082921.thumb.png.693cddef928f44c04a6954f23a3d54ee.png

  • 2 weeks later...
2 hours ago, MBS206 said:

So what was the issue?

I think it's the alternator, there's some cracked shit going on with the rectifier.

But so far, seems to be fine again? No sparks, no weird arcing when the leads went on.

I ran this past a mate, he said he had similar issues before and his auto sparky replaced the alternator.

All I know is, car works, car not on fire lol.

6 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I think it's the alternator, there's some cracked shit going on with the rectifier.

But so far, seems to be fine again? No sparks, no weird arcing when the leads went on.

I ran this past a mate, he said he had similar issues before and his auto sparky replaced the alternator.

All I know is, car works, car not on fire lol.

Please leave the battery disconnected when you're not with the car. That cable isn't fused, and it IS the one that will burn the car to the ground.

1 hour ago, MBS206 said:

Please leave the battery disconnected when you're not with the car. That cable isn't fused, and it IS the one that will burn the car to the ground.

Yeah it's disconnected at the moment ☺️

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Took the car out to see if it still starts, sure does.

Daughter wanted to for a spin too, she loves it when it doses, also cries when we come home and try to take her out of the baby seat 🥲 

I actually put the seat in for her brother, but he absolutely hates the shitbox.

Screenshot_20250615-114047.thumb.png.c93cf29b1b4d347aed34b0676530252e.png

Anyhow, so after looking at real boats, and transoms, bait tanks etc. and scupper valves attached to them, I came up with ideas to improve the catch can.

The primary goal was to stop the interior smelling like vented catch can shit when the windows are down OR when the HVAC is not recirculated.

My catch can has a sump drain/feed at the bottom, 2x cam cover inlets, 1x outlet back to the intake pipe and 1x vent at the top.

The initial theory was at idle, and off boost there would be just enough suction from the intake pipe (pre turbo) to pull back any smelly shit from the catch can before it could escape out of the vent (which does have 1x layer of foam and a fine mesh screen on top).

It kind of works, however on hot days, the motor is breathing more than the suction provided from the intake pipe (pre turbo) and there's a bit of vapours escaping (not a bit amount, but enough to piss me off).

I could have just sealed off the vent, however it would mean each time I take it to the track or decide to drive it with a bit of enthusiasm, I would need to remove the seal.

To address this, using scupper valve idea, I used a 3mm sheet of rubber and cut essentially a valve that requires a bit of pressure to crack open and vent.

Took the shit box for a drive today, came back and parked the car. No heavy stench, great success ☺️

PXL_20250615_012013443.thumb.jpg.d18cb6514eb8181db33b77a385e48cda.jpg

I still would swap for a F80 LCI or W204 2012+ C63 AMG, if anyone is keen 😅

  • Like 3

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