Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33 Ignition Switch Issues

Hi All, 

I had a weird issue appear tonight while I was driving - All of a sudden the accessory power cut out, no radio, windscreen wipers, mirrors etc. Turn the car off and back on and it would be fine. We worked out that if you turn the key a fraction then all accessory power would turn back on. Turn it one direction a fraction and everything would cut out again. 

My first thought was that there is an issue with the ignition barrel but I thought I would ask on here first. Has anyone had a similar problem before? I've seen cases where the car would turn off completely but not the accessory power only. 

If the issue is the ignition barrel what would my options be? Change ALL locks out for new ones including the ignition barrel, doors and boot - if so is it very hard to do? Change the barrel and get it keyed for my current one (if that's even possible???) 

Thanks in advance! 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468407-r33-ignition-switch-issues/
Share on other sites

It does sound like an ignition barrel issue, the ACC and IGN are separate within the barrel so only the ACC might have failed/be loose.

I understand you should be able to change just the barrel and have it rekeyed, you'll need to talk to a wrecker or car friendly locksmith

You can get a new barrel and have it keyed to your car. As mentioned a locksmith should be able to do it.
You can also get a full lock set, im just in this process now. It's similar as we have to buy the locks, install them and then have them keyed to match the original.


9 hours ago, Steve85 said:

You can get a new barrel and have it keyed to your car. As mentioned a locksmith should be able to do it.
You can also get a full lock set, im just in this process now. It's similar as we have to buy the locks, install them and then have them keyed to match the original.

 

 

13 minutes ago, Duncan said:

sorry I've got nothing! But hey there's an internet full of people out there :)

 

Thanks guys, I couldn't get it to do it no matter how hard i tried today. I went for a drive for a few hours - The only difference is that i used my spare key and not the "Nissan" one. The Nissan one looks so rounded and worn - I only just realized. Could this also be the issue?

I found a couple of locksmiths also that I will call tomorrow. 

Looking at the barrel assembly it seriously looks painful to remove. I wanted to remove and replace it myself but looking at it I'm not sure if I want to bother. 

Well definitely give that other key a go, but I think it's more likely to be electrical in the barrel than the key.

Removing the lock isn't as bad as it looks; you remove the steering column cover, one plug which has all the key's wires, and 2 bolts. The bolts will be either easy or hard because they are antitamper....if you can get them undone (sometimes you're lucky) it's easy, if not you have to drill them out which can be a pain.

On 1/2/2017 at 8:04 PM, Duncan said:

Well definitely give that other key a go, but I think it's more likely to be electrical in the barrel than the key.

Removing the lock isn't as bad as it looks; you remove the steering column cover, one plug which has all the key's wires, and 2 bolts. The bolts will be either easy or hard because they are antitamper....if you can get them undone (sometimes you're lucky) it's easy, if not you have to drill them out which can be a pain.

Thanks Duncan, I haven't actually had the issue happen again at all lately. I've intentionally tried to make it do it but it's not doing it (old key or my spare). I also pulled apart the steering assembly to check how to remove it all and I've worked it out just in case I need to. For now I'll leave it until it causes me further grief. 

Thank you for your help - If you don't mind could you please delete the post now if possible? I think this sort of sensitive info shouldn't be kept anywhere :P

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This sounds like someone who would have owned an R33 in their past... It's okay, I'm 100% picking up what you're putting down Mark.
    • Just back on what was raised about jacking off the the tow/tie down point on the front of cars. I've used it plenty. I've also watched it on a car where you could see it move the front end of the car. It was like the front end/whole car being tweaked and twisted a bit. I will say, I struggle to find good jacking points on MOST cars. The ones that have good points, I then normally struggle to find a jack tall enough to make the car change height!   One of my go to points for either the jack, or the axel stands though, is either a suspension pickup point, OR a subframe to chassis major bolting point. I actually think its the subframe on my R33 that has a bit of a bend in it, from being jacked in the middle too. However, it could have been one of my many other cars I've had over the years! Or it could also be the from me jacking it up, and the fact the top of the front radiator support isn't there, so it can allow the front of the car to move and bend etc.
    • My apologies. I forgot we were talking about weird beard M series stuff. Had been talking elsewhere with someone about an R33 with similar subject and got confused.
    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
×
×
  • Create New...