Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtr digital G-sensors

SiR_RB
 Share

Recommended Posts

SiR_RB Grand Master

SiR_RB

Posted
Posted
Gtr digital G-sensors

I'm looking at upgrading my g sensor for a new digital g sensor

has anyone used the midori/do-luck/Tarzan digital g sensors ?

what do you think of them ? Worth while upgrade ? Are they Realy much of an improvement over the stock analoge sensors ?

feedback would be much appreciated before I make a purchase 

ps. What's the difference between the normal street version and race model ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469086-gtr-digital-g-sensors/
Share on other sites
RBN1 Mentor

RBN1

Posted
Posted
My Stagea runs a digital G sensor, with much the same Attessa setup. Is that the sensor they use? Or are we talking aftermarket programmable?

 

he's referring to aftermarket/ programmable pre-set ones.

 

I'm also interested in this. I'm hoping to buy one of the Do-luck programmable ones later in the year. Even in "standard" mode I've got a feeling it will be an improvement over my 32R's 26 year old one (which is just a spring in some oil).

 

JimmyRickard Mentor

JimmyRickard

Posted
Posted

OK I have a bit of history with aftermarket G Sensors since busting my analog one a few years ago.

It's roughly broken up like this:

Midori/ Do-Luck G Sensor - Standard Digital G Sensor. Has no additional programming, is a straight replacement for the OG sensor except with the obvious advantage of being digital

Tarzan G-Sensor - essentially the same piece of equipment as above however Tarzan Yamada (apparently) has tuned it to be more aggressive on the road/track. Grips harder in corners etc.

Do-Luck DTM II - Do-Luck's latest (I think) G Sensor. Similar to the above, however it is adjustable from standard to using the Tarzan settings, and also a new mode called ARX or something that also uses throttle input to adjust the 4wd. The above three are all plug n play, however they rely on the Attessa computer for control over transfer case

Full-Race ETS Pro - full attessa replacement and g sensor, controls transfer case directly (attessa still required for ABS). fully programmable, has adjustable dial and can even tune g sensor to certain tracks/cornering. Not plug n play, requires some wiring skills

I had a DTMII in my car and it worked well. I used the Tarzan settings until I attempted to wire in the throttle position and blew it up. It is now a $900 paperweight.

I have since replaced it with a ETS Pro however I am yet to test it. However, your 4WD is only ever as good as your transfer case. You could have the fastest and fanciest g sensor in the world but if your transfer case is rubbish you won't notice the difference.

If your G sensor isn't busted put the money towards a transfer case rebuild.

Also, make sure you don't buy a Do-Luck sensor thinking it is a Tarzan. Almost done that a few times now.

Hope this helps!

RBN1 Mentor

RBN1

Posted
Posted

Nice one.

Very useful info. Think I'll get one of the Do Luck DTMII's.

Btw - Racepace modified my transfer case awhile ago. Also did something else to the 4wd - was a while ago. They also warned me about lots of on/off hard use (motorkhanas etc) - puts too much stress on the stock front diff and we know what that's attached to....



OK I have a bit of history with aftermarket G Sensors since busting my analog one a few years ago.
It's roughly broken up like this:
Midori/ Do-Luck G Sensor - Standard Digital G Sensor. Has no additional programming, is a straight replacement for the OG sensor except with the obvious advantage of being digital
Tarzan G-Sensor - essentially the same piece of equipment as above however Tarzan Yamada (apparently) has tuned it to be more aggressive on the road/track. Grips harder in corners etc.
Do-Luck DTM II - Do-Luck's latest (I think) G Sensor. Similar to the above, however it is adjustable from standard to using the Tarzan settings, and also a new mode called ARX or something that also uses throttle input to adjust the 4wd. The above three are all plug n play, however they rely on the Attessa computer for control over transfer case
Full-Race ETS Pro - full attessa replacement and g sensor, controls transfer case directly (attessa still required for ABS). fully programmable, has adjustable dial and can even tune g sensor to certain tracks/cornering. Not plug n play, requires some wiring skills
I had a DTMII in my car and it worked well. I used the Tarzan settings until I attempted to wire in the throttle position and blew it up. It is now a $900 paperweight.
I have since replaced it with a ETS Pro however I am yet to test it. However, your 4WD is only ever as good as your transfer case. You could have the fastest and fanciest g sensor in the world but if your transfer case is rubbish you won't notice the difference.
If your G sensor isn't busted put the money towards a transfer case rebuild.
Also, make sure you don't buy a Do-Luck sensor thinking it is a Tarzan. Almost done that a few times now.
Hope this helps!

SiR_RB Grand Master

SiR_RB

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Good write up thanks for the info

 

also midori has a race spec version which is more aggressive then the normal midori one

so if your transfer case if in perfect working order these would be a worthwhile upgrade...more so if your current g sensor is stuffed, may aswell upgrade to a digital version over another old stock one

RBN1 Mentor

RBN1

Posted
Posted
24 minutes ago, SiR_RB said:

so if your transfer case if in perfect working order these would be a worthwhile upgrade...more so if your current g sensor is stuffed, may aswell upgrade to a digital version over another old stock one

the transfer case mod, by itself makes a massive difference just by itself. Changed the way my 32R behaved. (no more back flicking out on hard acceleration and way more front drive out of corners. Highly recommended.

  • Like 1
JimmyRickard Mentor

JimmyRickard

Posted
Posted

Sounds like you're good to go then! DTMII is a great option, very happy with mine when it was working. Decided to opt for the ETS Pro though as I didn't want to depend on the aging ATTESSA cpu and I'm going to be getting rid of ABS one of these days so it just made sense.

I'm actually really looking forward to my next outing as I'll have the ETS Pro running and a freshly rebuilt transfer case. Should be fun :devil:

  • Like 1
Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted
6 hours ago, RBN1 said:

the transfer case mod, by itself makes a massive difference just by itself. Changed the way my 32R behaved. (no more back flicking out on hard acceleration and way more front drive out of corners. Highly recommended.

Now just add an aftermarket front diff and piss off that open junk! 

  • Like 1
Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted (edited)

As the brain trust is already in this thread I'd like to ask

I have a new Getrag 6speed with new transfer case and a quaife front diff going in my R32 GTR (which already has a Tarzan G sensor)

In your opinions is there any real gain doing the transfer case mod (additional clutch packs)?

(rear diff very recently rebuilt by Award)

Edited by Sinista32
update
Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Sinista32 said:

As the brain trust is already in this thread I'd like to ask

I have a new Getrag 6speed with new transfer case and a quaife front diff going in my R32 GTR (which already has a Tarzan G sensor)

In your opinions is there any real gain doing the transfer case mod (additional clutch packs)?

(rear diff very recently rebuilt by Award)

I suppose it depends if YOU want more front end grip. I've had it done and it does allow you to jump on the loud pedal earlier in a corner. 

JimmyRickard Mentor

JimmyRickard

Posted
Posted

FWIW this guy has blogged about installing and using the DTMII

http://www.r33gt-r.com/2013/10/do-lucks-dtm-ii-part-1-installation.html

 

I tend to think he is exaggerating some of the benefits but overall it's a good read.

Ares180BPM Explorer

Ares180BPM

Posted
Posted

i've gone from factory to Midori spec midori Seibi to Do Luck Tarzan G-Box in my 34.
the additional programming in the Do-luck really comes into things under hard braking into corners where the unit pushes power forward to stabilize the car to help deal with weight shift.

For a 32 or 33 you should notice things a lot more as the 34's factory g-sensor (apparently) works faster than units fitted to the older models.

Which is best for you depends on what you're doing with the car but as above, your transfer case needs to be up to the task.

The official diagnosis for this is to park up on a firm but grassy field and hit the throttle hard, paying attention to how much your torque split gauge moves :)

All up, i feel they're worthwhile - just gotta select the right model :)

  • Like 1
RBN1 Mentor

RBN1

Posted
Posted
26 minutes ago, Ares180BPM said:

The official diagnosis for this is to park up on a firm but grassy field and hit the throttle hard, paying attention to how much your torque split gauge moves :)

I like the test method :)

That said I didn't think the gauge was an indication of how hard the transfer case is working, more how much pressure is being sent to it?

Ares180BPM Explorer

Ares180BPM

Posted
Posted

It's from Nissan officially, believe it or not - quite fun too, lol!

Not so much a test of the gauge as the ETS itself - the MFD on my 34 typically gets the "highest score" under these conditions and should give some indication of the condition of the case :)

  • Like 1
MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted
On 2/19/2017 at 1:37 PM, RBN1 said:

the transfer case mod, by itself makes a massive difference just by itself. Changed the way my 32R behaved. (no more back flicking out on hard acceleration and way more front drive out of corners. Highly recommended.

I'd describe my $60 ebay attessa tweaker the same way...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...