Jump to content
SAU Community

Wheel alignment

Pete_Repeat
 Share

Recommended Posts

Pete_Repeat Enthusiast

Pete_Repeat

Posted
Posted

Wheel alignment

I've searched and found some info but nothing overly comprehensive. 

I have attached the specs for alignment for a v36 coupe from the service manual of a G37 (assume they are the same). I've got an SP coupe  but assume it doesn't matter if it's a sport or not.

From my understanding caster is adjustable front and rear. Alignment same. But camber is only adjustable in the rear which is only minor adjustments. No camber  adjustment in the front on stock suspension.

Getting it done on the weekend (along with sway bars) so hoping this is all correct.

Screenshot_20170216-112341.png

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469106-wheel-alignment/
Share on other sites
Pete_Repeat Enthusiast

Pete_Repeat

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'm going to aim for nominal. I understand more negative should improve cornering (within limits) but wear tyres out. 

Caster will change how much it wants to drive straight or corner. At the moment it's too sensitive to turning, especially on high speed corners.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469106-wheel-alignment/#findComment-7811658
Share on other sites
The Max Mentor

The Max

Posted
Posted

If you're in Sydney, there's a guy I go to in Granville (Pedders) who knows his cars very well and always performs excellent alignments on my vehicles.

I'd suggest you take your car to him and tell him what you want to achieve. What he says is gospel, in my opinion.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469106-wheel-alignment/#findComment-7811680
Share on other sites
Pete_Repeat Enthusiast

Pete_Repeat

Posted
  • Author
Posted
31 minutes ago, V35_Paul said:

are you planning to dive on the track?

or is this just everyday driving?

It's a daily that will eventually hit the track for the odd weekend. Was planning a track s15 but decided to buy this as a great daily instead with the odd track day. But mostly daily.

27 minutes ago, The Max said:

If you're in Sydney, there's a guy I go to in Granville (Pedders) who knows his cars very well and always performs excellent alignments on my vehicles.

I'd suggest you take your car to him and tell him what you want to achieve. What he says is gospel, in my opinion.

Yes I am in Sydney. I have it booked in for the sway bars (whiteline - see other thread) and full allignment at Blairs Tyres in Narellan. I have had great experience there previously on my S15. I went ot Pedders in Campbelltown and they offered great service (suspension sqeak unsolved because it was wet but they didn't charge me) but they quoted like 5 hour labour + full price for the sway bar... So decided to go where I knew. I'll give your suggestion some thought though as I know how much a bad alignment can change handling as I had this on the s15 with Bob Jane.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469106-wheel-alignment/#findComment-7811685
Share on other sites
The Max Mentor

The Max

Posted
Posted

There's a big difference between tyre shops and suspension shops when it comes to wheel alignments. I wouldn't waste my time (and money) on any of those idiots.

That said, no one Pedders is the same as another either. That's why without knowing the folks at Campbelltown, the only Pedders I go to is in Granville and wherever he goes, I'll follow, because it's not about the shop/chain. It's about the one dude with the knowledge that I'm referring to and where he just happens to be.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469106-wheel-alignment/#findComment-7811689
Share on other sites
Pete_Repeat Enthusiast

Pete_Repeat

Posted
  • Author
Posted
54 minutes ago, The Max said:

There's a big difference between tyre shops and suspension shops when it comes to wheel alignments. I wouldn't waste my time (and money) on any of those idiots.

That said, no one Pedders is the same as another either. That's why without knowing the folks at Campbelltown, the only Pedders I go to is in Granville and wherever he goes, I'll follow, because it's not about the shop/chain. It's about the one dude with the knowledge that I'm referring to and where he just happens to be.

I hear you. Thanks for the suggestion.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469106-wheel-alignment/#findComment-7811697
Share on other sites
Pete_Repeat Enthusiast

Pete_Repeat

Posted
  • Author
Posted
6 hours ago, Hank Scorpio said:

I know it wasn't your initial question but let me chime in all the same. Get yourself a set of adjustable rear camber and toe arms mate, your car will love it!

So I'm assuming you're saying the v36 likes more rear camber? 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469106-wheel-alignment/#findComment-7811767
Share on other sites
Hank Scorpio Grand Master

Hank Scorpio

Posted
Posted
13 hours ago, Pete_Repeat said:

So I'm assuming you're saying the v36 likes more rear camber? 

Sorry mate, should have been more in depth. The amount of camber and toe adjustment is so minimal that (especially if a car is lowered) optimum wheel alignment specs can't be achieved with the factory adjustments. If the car is even slightly lowered it will have way too much negative camber in the rear and god knows what toe settings.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469106-wheel-alignment/#findComment-7811831
Share on other sites
Pete_Repeat Enthusiast

Pete_Repeat

Posted
  • Author
Posted
5 minutes ago, Hank Scorpio said:

Sorry mate, should have been more in depth. The amount of camber and toe adjustment is so minimal that (especially if a car is lowered) optimum wheel alignment specs can't be achieved with the factory adjustments. If the car is even slightly lowered it will have way too much negative camber in the rear and god knows what toe settings.

Ahh makes sense. No plans to lower my car at this stage. If I do change I will factor those bits on aswell though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469106-wheel-alignment/#findComment-7811837
Share on other sites
  • 5 months later...
Pete_Repeat Enthusiast

Pete_Repeat

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Well finally getting my wheel alignment done (did the sway bars myself) with the new tyres on the weekend. 

If anyone has any feedback on their wheel alignment on the v36 then feel free to chime in. 

I've got the SP coupe. All suspension standard except for the whiteline sway bars.

Edited by Pete_Repeat
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469106-wheel-alignment/#findComment-7841689
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...