Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

building motor help needed

So i finally put a rod through the block looking for about 500 hp.  So I am getting another rotating assembly im thinking for parts cp pistons, manley rods and spool import billet oil pump gear  then swapping my head over.  http://www.rawbrokerage.com/cp-pistons-manley-rods-combo-r33-rb25det/

Im not to sure what head gasket or thickness  I need and if i should run race main bearings and end bearings or if I should just go oem.

Can you provide insight on what other parts i will need or you recommend as this is my first build. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469225-building-motor-help-needed/
Share on other sites

Go to the forced induction section and read through the latter part of the RB25 turbo upgrade section - some people put a fair bit of detail in the description of their engines (some less so). If you are going to the expense of forged components then you should plan to fully balance the whole rotating assembly. Aim for better than 9:1 compression. I would get a Tomei metal gasket simply because they can be reused in the event that your head has to come off again. Is it a street car or do you plan to track or drag race it?

so far ive come up with 

rb26 rods

oem bearings 

spool billet oil pump gear

extended crank collar

balanced bottom end

forged pistons 86mm 9.0.1

tomei headgasket

tomei poncams

oem gasket set

arp head studs 

arp main studs 

 

  • 1 month later...

Dont buy bearings until you know what clearances you want to run.  If you are using stock rb26 rods install the rod bolts, torque to spec and check the sizing. Most of them need to be resized with arp fasteners. Same goes for the main studs. Install, torque and measure the tunnel. I highly doubt you will have a dial indicator setup on a bore guage small enough and long enough to accurately measure it. Bearings dont score journals. Poor clearance and assembly does

  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

The motor spins freely I unplug the cad and spun it with the starter for 30 sec to try and build oil pressure before starting it stock oil pump internals was swapped out for spool imports I'm going to try pouring some oil down the filter housing so it runs into the pump and try again

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...