Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Most Realistic Console Bathurst?

Have a G25 wheel and pedals setup, need to get the game and the console that will preferably work with said G25. Other than that, the first priority is the ability to do realistic solo laps in a V8 rear drive car that will help me in reality. What are your recommendations dear sirs?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469587-most-realistic-console-bathurst/
Share on other sites

Well it depends on if the g25 is supported by the ps4. Of not check if it's pc supported. It should be. Those would be the options hardware wise.

Games I'd look at is project cars and assetto corsa. I've only played project cars. It's pretty good played it with a controller and it was horrible got myself a g920 and it was heaps better.

Assetto corsa might be better but can't coment on it.

Pc might have more game options too.

Whilst the ps3 gran turismo is the easiest and cheapest method dunno if it is now "most realistic" as title stated.

Ps4 has heaps of wheel support. G29 is the current logitec wheel for it and I think there are thrustmaster options and also fanatec but they're more expensive.

Something I realised is you also wanted v8. Is that supercars? If so dunno if project cars or assetto has fhem. Not sure about gran turismo either.

9 minutes ago, MatthewT85 said:

Ha ha true maybe one day I'll upgrade. What's the price on a fanatec?

North of $1,000 for club sport pedals, steering box and wheel.

The BMW steering wheel feels as if it got pulled out of a race car. 

45 minutes ago, MatthewT85 said:

Whilst the ps3 gran turismo is the easiest and cheapest method dunno if it is now "most realistic" as title stated.

Ps4 has heaps of wheel support. G29 is the current logitec wheel for it and I think there are thrustmaster options and also fanatec but they're more expensive.

Something I realised is you also wanted v8. Is that supercars? If so dunno if project cars or assetto has fhem. Not sure about gran turismo either.

Any chance of sharing a link about the steering wheel support on the PS4 mate?

 

29 minutes ago, Piggaz said:

North of $1,000 for club sport pedals, steering box and wheel.

The BMW steering wheel feels as if it got pulled out of a race car. 

f**k thats a big investment...

 

8 minutes ago, Mick_o said:

Any chance of sharing a link about the steering wheel support on the PS4 mate?

 

http://gaming.logitech.com/en-au/product/g29-driving-force

http://www.thrustmaster.com/en_UK/products/t300-rs-gt-edition

I've found Project cars to be one of the better, if not the best thus far. I have driven a v8 around bathurst for COUNTLESS laps on project cars. 
Forza has been up there for a while, not sure if the new one has bathurst? as the old ones didn't.

Data loss, try again :)  Thanks a lot blokes for the useful info and suggestions, my real track car has a LS3 V8, see avatar pic. So what the game/simulator must have is something similar, a rear driver V8. Maybe a Corvette or even a old school Falcon GT, that 7 litre Commodore special would be great.

There's videos on YouTube which compare Bathurst on forza vs gt6. Forza looks great but it doesn't have the same tarmac undulations as gt6 does. And if I recall correctly, GT actually go to each track and map it out so it's as accurate as can be.

Gt6 also gives you 2 commodores and an au Bathurst car. For your v8 pleasure.

Had a quick look on YouTube without noting which system, a couple of strange dynamics came up. One outside view showed the car apparently pivoting around the centre when turning and moving around, instead of moving from either or both ends eg car turns right so the front should lead by moving to the right and the rear follow, depending on slip of course. The other was very strange. The car went into various angles of slide in every corner with the front particularly sliding as if on ice without losing speed, in real life the tyres would last maybe a lap and usually the car would not recover from such slides.

So I'm wondering if this sort of behaviour is optional and the cars can be tuned to drive like a real race car. If so, which game is best at that?

Edited by 260DET

You are never going to get the same feel as actually driving a track as in the end it's a game and can only be made to be as realistic as the system allows it. You won't get the proper feel of all the bumps or weight of the car or anything like that.
The only thing I can think of that would even come close to what ur after ( as realistic as driving the track) is a simulator that an f1 team would use

Use to play a PC V8 SC game years ago where the car could be backed in to a corner at some sort of ridiculous speed and then gunned out. Really it was not too bad though but I had sort of hoped that things had moved on since then. Whatever, any one of the console games will help learn the circuit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...