Jump to content
SAU Community

Brake Lights Staying On

Shyboy

By Shyboy,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Shyboy Collaborator

Shyboy

Posted
Posted
Brake Lights Staying On

Brake lights staying on !!

 

Hi all

Just noticed my brake lights and wing light are stying on . Took it for a short drive then put it on stands to see if it brakes ok .It does. Checked all the fuses all fine . Took the battery off.

 

Any suggestion / ideas would be much appreciated

Cheers

Bruce

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/470112-brake-lights-staying-on/
Share on other sites
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

They are controlled by a small, adjustable switch at the brake pedal.

First unplug the switch at the pedal and make sure the light goes off.  Assuming it does, push the switch a few times and see if it frees up, and if not it can be adjusted a little.  Otherwise it may just have failed and need replacing.

 

Shyboy Collaborator

Shyboy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yes it was the switch thank you.

Also found rubber/plastic button like bits on carpet which, I assume hits the switch ???

Seen the whole brake switch on Super cheap Auto would they fit ? or just find the rubbery end bit?

Thanks

 

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

I'm not near the car to check, but this is the service manual page for it

brake-switch.jpg

It looks like a similar setup to my navara where the rubber stopper disintegrated a few years back leaving nothing for the switch to turn off against. Pretty sure I picked up the part at nissan for a few bucks after my dodgy fix failed again.

32_love Collaborator

32_love

Posted
Posted

This has happened to me in every import I've owned.

When that rubber piece brakes, I just super glue a five cent piece over the ensuing hole. Otherwise that switch doesn't get depressed when you let the brake off.

  • 1 year later...
mikel Community Regular

mikel

Posted
Posted

gotta love SAU!

My brake lights were on when I came home yesterday - figured it was most likely the switch, but did a search on SAU and bingo!

Even found the bits on the carpet, but wow it's tight under there :( - a quick look last night and another this morning, I was able to push the button in to prove the fault, but didn't have time to try an maneuver a 5c piece or similar in to activate the switch, or disconnect the connector...so the brake lights stayed on - got home tonight and the bulbs are blown - I should have disconnected them at the tail lights in the boot!

Not surprising in hindsight - cautionary tale - of course brake lights won't cop being on for 24hrs - they burn bright when required but aren't designed to stay on. At the time I was more concerned with flattening the battery, so had the battery charger on.

No biggy, bulbs are cheap...

I'm more concerned with the contortionist activity required under the dash to fix the switch - likely I'll have to remove the driver's seat to give me more room...

The glued 5c piece option sounds dodgy, but actually looks the best solution compared to swapping the switch assembly including disconnecting/reconnecting the connector...getting to it is tricky - admittedly I was holding a torch in one hand, so a fixed light source and 2 hands would help.

Is the rubber grommet piece available as a spare part - preferably without buying the whole switch? Pushing a new grommet in looks even easier than the glued 5c piece (not that anything is easy under the dash :( )

I'm wary of doing any mods to the braking system (or in this case the brake light system) - am I being too paranoid or appropriately cautious?

The car is not a daily and can stay off the road for a bit.

cheers

Mike

  • 2 weeks later...
mikel Community Regular

mikel

Posted
Posted

thanks goes to @Duncan for the diagram so I could get the clearance right when re-installing the switch, and @Dose Pipe Sutututu and @duffmansbrew for where to get the replacement bit ?

Biatch of a job under there - removing the switch makes it "easier".

I used a smidge of silicon grease on the hole to help the rubber bit slip in, and a flat blade screwdriver for a bit of leverage - it doesn't need force, it's just in an awkward spot.

Thanks again SAU!

 

cheers

Mike

 

  • Like 3
  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • dyl33
      VOLK RACING GTC CENTRE CAPS

      By dyl33 · Posted

      Centre caps $250
    • Kapr
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Duncan
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Duncan · Posted

      Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Kapr
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...