Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Insurance for skyline

Guys need help please recently have bought skyline r33 and need insurance but nobody ready to do guys it's just first time I have heard about that you can't get insurance for second hand import cars . RACQ , Shannon are the people that I have spoken to.

if someone knows please drop me a line.

just need 3rd party include fire and theft insurance. 

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/470445-insurance-for-skyline/
Share on other sites

I can tell you that you can get insurance for second hand imports. I am currently with Shannons who have been quite good so far. My car is fully covered though, so I can't comment too much on only having 3rd party. 

Even the RACV were willing to cover a standard Skyline here in Melbourne, so you might just need to run the details through each of the online quote generators. 

Shannon's will normally offer comprehensive cover as lots of guys here (inc me) are covered by them. Would be strange circumstances for them to decline a comprehensive policy request but on depends on your age and history.

Try "Just Car Insurance" as they normally offer cover for younger drivers with imports but will charge for it.

4 minutes ago, baron_von_bootsector said:

Try "Just Car Insurance" as they normally offer cover for younger drivers with imports but will charge for it.

I think Just Car are no more. I think most of their customers ended up with Shannons or Famous Insurance.

http://www.famousinsurance.com.au/

Try these guys, otherwise, google might be your friend for your request.

3 minutes ago, Steve85 said:

I think Just Car are no more. I think most of their customers ended up with Shannons or Famous Insurance.

http://www.famousinsurance.com.au/

Try these guys, otherwise, google might be your friend for your request.

Oops - it seems you may require a modified DeLorean to get a policy from Just Car Insurance!

  • Like 1

Hey mate, you can try Lumley as well if you have had no luck with Shannons.  

I have my 32 GTR insured with Lumley they seem to have been ok so far, I think it was under modern classic because it's not a daily driven car.

Heads up though depending on how much you want the car insured for it my cost you a nice premium :)

Yup

Maximum Sum Insured is contingent on Model rather than Mods. My R33 GTR is basically stock. But just because it's an N1, I got an offer of a Sum Insured of  $195,000

I know how you feel. Just shop around and if you can strike 2 reasonable insurers, some SAUers alternate between the two every other year. That's because when it's time to renew, that insurer often drops the value. Sux ay!

  • 3 weeks later...

I just signed both my cars up with Shannons.
Laid Up Insurance on my R33 whilst she's being rebuilt and Full Comp on my Ford BF Wagon.
Good value, good insured amounts, better than RACV.

RACV are quick to payout but also quick to write your car off as they only quote on repairing your car with brand new parts so if its an import they'll write it off pretty quick as economical.
eg A new set of airbags on an S2 Skyline new will set you back $7,000 and the insurance company will write the car off if damage is 70% or more of its worth.
I got to buy my car back with RACV but the premiums are ridiculously expensive.

I just signed both my cars up with Shannons.
Laid Up Insurance on my R33 whilst she's being rebuilt and Full Comp on my Ford BF Wagon.
Good value, good insured amounts, better than RACV.

RACV are quick to payout but also quick to write your car off as they only quote on repairing your car with brand new parts so if its an import they'll write it off pretty quick as economical.
eg A new set of airbags on an S2 Skyline new will set you back $7,000 and the insurance company will write the car off if damage is 70% or more of its worth.
I got to buy my car back with RACV but the premiums are ridiculously expensive.


That's actually not correct. It's not a percentage that they work on [emoji23]

RACV's assessor told me this information. He said if it costs the insurance company more than approx figure of 70% of the cars total worth they can write the car off as an Economical Write Off and payout.

 

 

RACV's assessor told me this information. He said if it costs the insurance company more than approx figure of 70% of the cars total worth they can write the car off as an Economical Write Off and payout.
 
 



If it's a percentage which is less than 100% wouldn't it be cheaper for the company to repair it? [emoji57]

Rule of thumb is that if cost of repairs, towing/storage costs and savage etc. exceeds the value that's where they will write it off as un economical.

They may, now depending on the situation write a vehicle off as a business decision if less or if it's obviously unsafe to repair.

I also work in the industry [emoji4]

RACV for example said to me that they only quote repairs based on using Brand New parts, not spare parts because they offer a guarantee on repairs done.

 

My point being, brand new OEM Nissan parts for an R33 are darn expensive.

 

E.G. a set of OEM airbags a cool $6,500, Headlights around $1,400 a pair, Rad Support $500, etc etc.

So it doesn't take much for them to write your R33 off as an economical write off.

 

Obviously if the cars structurally compromised they will deem it a statutory write off regardless of the repair cost and they don't let you buy the car back at all, they send it to Pickles and you can bid for your wreck , if a statutory write off will never be able to re-register the car.

They definitely factor in the wreck price.

All complicated and each insurer has different rules, excess's .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I just signed both my cars up with Shannons.
Laid Up Insurance on my R33 whilst she's being rebuilt and Full Comp on my Ford BF Wagon.
Good value, good insured amounts, better than RACV.

RACV are quick to payout but also quick to write your car off as they only quote on repairing your car with brand new parts so if its an import they'll write it off pretty quick as economical.
eg A new set of airbags on an S2 Skyline new will set you back $7,000 and the insurance company will write the car off if damage is 70% or more of its worth.
I got to buy my car back with RACV but the premiums are ridiculously expensive.

How much did you buy the car back for? And what did RACV value your car at?
If you don't mind me asking

I have bomb insurance with AAMI...was with Just Cars but AAMI took over the policy.  My Gtst is somewhat modified with bolt on stuff, but at the end of the day its only worth $10-15K.

And they wanted $2K for full insurance over 15 years ago...so I figure I am ahead.  But you need to have nil accidents and avoid slimy thieves for that to happen.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
    • Any idea where I can get genuine MAF apart from used ones? I can't find any only for GTRs and unfortunately that price is not in my budget 🤣 I might gap my plugs down and put my splitfires in, they were only in for a year or so before I started the rebuild 
×
×
  • Create New...