Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Insurance for skyline

Guys need help please recently have bought skyline r33 and need insurance but nobody ready to do guys it's just first time I have heard about that you can't get insurance for second hand import cars . RACQ , Shannon are the people that I have spoken to.

if someone knows please drop me a line.

just need 3rd party include fire and theft insurance. 

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/470445-insurance-for-skyline/
Share on other sites

I can tell you that you can get insurance for second hand imports. I am currently with Shannons who have been quite good so far. My car is fully covered though, so I can't comment too much on only having 3rd party. 

Even the RACV were willing to cover a standard Skyline here in Melbourne, so you might just need to run the details through each of the online quote generators. 

Shannon's will normally offer comprehensive cover as lots of guys here (inc me) are covered by them. Would be strange circumstances for them to decline a comprehensive policy request but on depends on your age and history.

Try "Just Car Insurance" as they normally offer cover for younger drivers with imports but will charge for it.

4 minutes ago, baron_von_bootsector said:

Try "Just Car Insurance" as they normally offer cover for younger drivers with imports but will charge for it.

I think Just Car are no more. I think most of their customers ended up with Shannons or Famous Insurance.

http://www.famousinsurance.com.au/

Try these guys, otherwise, google might be your friend for your request.

3 minutes ago, Steve85 said:

I think Just Car are no more. I think most of their customers ended up with Shannons or Famous Insurance.

http://www.famousinsurance.com.au/

Try these guys, otherwise, google might be your friend for your request.

Oops - it seems you may require a modified DeLorean to get a policy from Just Car Insurance!

  • Like 1

Hey mate, you can try Lumley as well if you have had no luck with Shannons.  

I have my 32 GTR insured with Lumley they seem to have been ok so far, I think it was under modern classic because it's not a daily driven car.

Heads up though depending on how much you want the car insured for it my cost you a nice premium :)

Yup

Maximum Sum Insured is contingent on Model rather than Mods. My R33 GTR is basically stock. But just because it's an N1, I got an offer of a Sum Insured of  $195,000

I know how you feel. Just shop around and if you can strike 2 reasonable insurers, some SAUers alternate between the two every other year. That's because when it's time to renew, that insurer often drops the value. Sux ay!

  • 3 weeks later...

I just signed both my cars up with Shannons.
Laid Up Insurance on my R33 whilst she's being rebuilt and Full Comp on my Ford BF Wagon.
Good value, good insured amounts, better than RACV.

RACV are quick to payout but also quick to write your car off as they only quote on repairing your car with brand new parts so if its an import they'll write it off pretty quick as economical.
eg A new set of airbags on an S2 Skyline new will set you back $7,000 and the insurance company will write the car off if damage is 70% or more of its worth.
I got to buy my car back with RACV but the premiums are ridiculously expensive.

I just signed both my cars up with Shannons.
Laid Up Insurance on my R33 whilst she's being rebuilt and Full Comp on my Ford BF Wagon.
Good value, good insured amounts, better than RACV.

RACV are quick to payout but also quick to write your car off as they only quote on repairing your car with brand new parts so if its an import they'll write it off pretty quick as economical.
eg A new set of airbags on an S2 Skyline new will set you back $7,000 and the insurance company will write the car off if damage is 70% or more of its worth.
I got to buy my car back with RACV but the premiums are ridiculously expensive.


That's actually not correct. It's not a percentage that they work on [emoji23]

RACV's assessor told me this information. He said if it costs the insurance company more than approx figure of 70% of the cars total worth they can write the car off as an Economical Write Off and payout.

 

 

RACV's assessor told me this information. He said if it costs the insurance company more than approx figure of 70% of the cars total worth they can write the car off as an Economical Write Off and payout.
 
 



If it's a percentage which is less than 100% wouldn't it be cheaper for the company to repair it? [emoji57]

Rule of thumb is that if cost of repairs, towing/storage costs and savage etc. exceeds the value that's where they will write it off as un economical.

They may, now depending on the situation write a vehicle off as a business decision if less or if it's obviously unsafe to repair.

I also work in the industry [emoji4]

RACV for example said to me that they only quote repairs based on using Brand New parts, not spare parts because they offer a guarantee on repairs done.

 

My point being, brand new OEM Nissan parts for an R33 are darn expensive.

 

E.G. a set of OEM airbags a cool $6,500, Headlights around $1,400 a pair, Rad Support $500, etc etc.

So it doesn't take much for them to write your R33 off as an economical write off.

 

Obviously if the cars structurally compromised they will deem it a statutory write off regardless of the repair cost and they don't let you buy the car back at all, they send it to Pickles and you can bid for your wreck , if a statutory write off will never be able to re-register the car.

They definitely factor in the wreck price.

All complicated and each insurer has different rules, excess's .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I just signed both my cars up with Shannons.
Laid Up Insurance on my R33 whilst she's being rebuilt and Full Comp on my Ford BF Wagon.
Good value, good insured amounts, better than RACV.

RACV are quick to payout but also quick to write your car off as they only quote on repairing your car with brand new parts so if its an import they'll write it off pretty quick as economical.
eg A new set of airbags on an S2 Skyline new will set you back $7,000 and the insurance company will write the car off if damage is 70% or more of its worth.
I got to buy my car back with RACV but the premiums are ridiculously expensive.

How much did you buy the car back for? And what did RACV value your car at?
If you don't mind me asking

I have bomb insurance with AAMI...was with Just Cars but AAMI took over the policy.  My Gtst is somewhat modified with bolt on stuff, but at the end of the day its only worth $10-15K.

And they wanted $2K for full insurance over 15 years ago...so I figure I am ahead.  But you need to have nil accidents and avoid slimy thieves for that to happen.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...