Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

r33 gtst rear drag setup suspension

Hey guys just need some advice, have gone to heasmans to look at getting a proper rear suspension setup for my r33.

 

They have suggested a bilstein adjustable coilover, for drag and street use.

Im confused however, they mentioned the rears would have a rating of about 8kg, I was under the assumption based off other threads I would be moreso looking for  alower kg rating such as 4kg? I have limited knowledge about rear coilover suspension hence going to heasmans.

 

Just wanted some clarification before spending the money, Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471450-r33-gtst-rear-drag-setup-suspension/
Share on other sites

That's a tough one.  It's not really possible to 2nd guess what their intentions are with that one part of the overall recommendation.  Having said that, I would agree with you that 8kg at the rear sounds more circuit spec than drag spec.  I would also wonder whether it is a good idea to use the standard valving on (assuming) B6s because they're probably not going to be happiest at those sorts of spring rates.  I might be wrong about that, but it does make for an interesting question to put to Heasmans.

Obviously you know you're looking to get some weight transfer on launch, hence the query regarding the 4-8kg range.  I have something like 5kg springs on the rear of my R32 with B6s and it's pretty immune to squatting on launch.  I realise that part of that is the R32 geometry, which is different to the R33, but nevertheless, it's pretty firm on launch.  Will break traction easily enough.

I would get something like 3~4kg, raise the car so the lower control arms are pointing nearly downwards or at the very least flat, followed by:

  • new subframe bushes
  • HICAS eliminator kit (not the lock car, the one that removes all the ball joints)
  • GKTech camber delete kit
  • Camber arms
  • Traction rods (extend them by 5mm, it will make a difference)

I've realised the shop that was mentioned aren't that knowledgable about suspension geometry or intended usage. A friend of mine that owns that S15 I often I drive at the track and tune took his car to said shop to get an alignment for the track. He asked them to adjust his traction rods and the guy was like I would just leave them at the stock position also he didn't know what they did. Then followed by the fact the recommended zero toe at the rear for a Nissan that's used for the track, we all know that Nissans suffer massive toe and camber ramp when there's any form of squatting involved.

Really odd experience - must have been a noob working on the day.

You really want that instant weight transfer and 'squatting' of the rear end, ideally OEM height, soft-ish springs, all new bushes would be ideal. If you want to step it up a game, get some drop spindles or knuckles as they're called.

If you look at fast street drag cars, they're never slammed on their tits neither are the rear springs very stiff either.

  • Like 2

I didnt end up going through with it, as you mentioned mate just didnt seem or feel right.

As you have suggested I do indeed have the following:

-Hardrace traction rods

-Hardtrace camber arms

-Hicas eliminator kit (ball joints removed) - installed by greaser :)

-hsd track orientated coilovers

 

Ill look into the camber delete kit and subframe bushes mate. Car is hooking up nicely on 275/50 MT ET R's. Just would like some nice squat + my left rear coilover is almost cooked

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...