Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gold:

Ok, knew I had metal throttle body gaskets somewhere. They reared their head on my toolbox at work today. Glad I hadn't put the motor in, or I wouldn't bother, as it's a PITA.

So, removed plenum, throttle bodies and IAC assembly.
Installed metal gaskets(with a hylomar coating) and reassembled.

Will be a good addition if I ever swap to e85 and start trying more boost.


White:

Washed to carbon bonnet that has been sitting in the garage for about a year.20181012_145844.jpg20181012_155413.jpg20181012_155415.jpg20181012_155708.jpg20181012_160748.jpg20181012_150355.jpg

  • Like 1

Gold:

Busy day yesterday.
Connected heater lines, injector harness, coolant and air temp sensors, main earth and alternator wiring.
Also installed clutch, gearbox, tailshaft and front exhaust merge pipe.
Have also connected the ps drive shaft.
And popped bonnet back on.

Getting so close.20181014_161544.jpg20181014_194941.jpg20181014_194923.jpg

  • Like 1

Gold:

Wasnt going to do anything today, but I ended up doing some work.
2x boost pipes connected
Intake pipes and air box fitted
Bov recirc pipes and hoses fitted
Ac belt on
Reconnect throttle cable20181015_193146.jpg20181015_193153.jpg20181015_193203.jpg20181015_193207.jpg

  • Like 1
Looking good mate good progress 
Keep the pics coming 
 
Cheers mate.
Honestly surprised no one has bagged out the stock air box.
I was curious to see if it would work with the 30 bottom end. Was a little tight, but got there.

Gold:

What did I get done today?
Read on to find out....

Purchased some oils and drive belts(also purchased drive belts for the white one while I was there)
Installed said belt(power steer)
Installed radiator
Installed shifter assembly
Installed strut brace cross bar
Installed centre muffler section of exhaust

Finished filling with run in oil(I was 2l short from my last lot)
Filled with coolant

Was going to fill transfer and diff, but couldnt crack the transfer fill plug.
Checked and confirmed i also need gearbox oil(dont know why I drained it)

Painted the exhaust tip black again, as the paint had perished.

Any other questions?
20181016_180952.jpg20181016_182038.jpg20181016_182435.jpg20181016_182828.jpg20181016_185826.jpg20181016_193124.jpg20181016_193249.jpg

  • Like 1
On 10/16/2018 at 7:59 PM, luke gtr said:

Depends on blue slip inspection.
Need to find someone a little lenient.
Anyone know anyone?

There is a guy that posts on the facebook pages peter gtr or something like that, says he will do blues.

 

Edited by NEO25T
Spelling

Gold:

Rear muffler on
Starter motor in!(was procrastinating because it's a PITA)
Transfer oil in
Lower bell housing bolts in
Connected fan wiring

Still have to connect the starter wiring, fit clutch slave, fill front diff and gearbox.
Then, should be good to go.

No pics today(sorry)
Called it a little early as my light went flat.

  • Like 1

So........

Gold:

Starter motor wiring connected
Clutch slave bolted up
Front tail shaft installed
Gearbox filled
Front diff filled
Battery connected

And started for the first time in over 2 years!
Fark yeah!

Also washed it. Feels so good.

(Unfortunately I have an oil leak. I suspect the front turbo oil feed. Will check it out tomorrow)20181019_185408.jpg

  • Like 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (Rb25det intake manifold) I’m having a hell of a time trying to find the full part or part number of this coolant hardline so far I was given these (Below) but they aren’t what I’m looking for and was told it’s the IAR or aac valve but that doesn’t seem to be it either. If someone could point me in the right direction it’d be greatly appreciated. Or if anyone has it for sale that’d be great too. I have recently purchased a greddy manifold and I can’t seem to find my old one to pull it off.  (Front Heater Return / Water Pipe (under intake): Primary part: 14053‑21U10 (front return pipe assembly for R33/R34 RB25DET) Alternative listing: 14053‑21U00 (same pipe, sometimes interchangeably referenced)   Heater Feed Pipe: Listed as 14075‑04U00 or feed-related variant 14053‑AG500)    
    • This sounds cool. But, as per usual, anything really complicated like that, that I take on, constitutes a steep learning curve that I never actually "learn". I just get it working, install it and start using it. Then, when it breaks a few months later, I've got no memory of what I did, how I did it, or even the bloody IP address I gave it. I'm having more or less exactly that problem right now. My Proxmox machine was discovered to be non-responsive, and the VMs on it were ditto. Power cycle it to a stream of loud Dell beep codes - which was unpopular at midnight, I can tell you. Move it to the lounge room so I can HDMI it to the TV for a screen, see the boot messages complaining about the /PVE/data having all sorts of LVM problems, saying it needs to be fixed manually. And I'm like....great. How am I going to work out what I need to do? At least it wasn't the stupid Silicon Power SSD shat itself. Mental note for all readers - DO NOT BUY SP SSDS! They are shit. I have had one take out an entire VM setup already, and this one could have done the same. Maybe it actually has. Cheap Chinesium shitbaskets. I won't cheap out again, even on play projects with no budget. Because my time budget having to fix shit is worth far more than the cost of proper parts.
    • I do typically agree. These days even the screens most people use have more of a boot time than the main device. However, I've seen an interesting use of the RPi in vehicle, however it involves effectively building your own OS and MBR, as then it boots up exceptionally quickly, as you don't have everything needing to start up, and you can then also run it up as an RTOS, while still having more compute than an Android can give for things like display, and processing. A very huge task that would be though for Duncan, I'm not sure that's his skill set (or Arduino programming and wiring) ha ha. If end goal is definitely just water cooling, Arduino would be the simpler setup especially for a rookie. If he wants extra display stuff though, bashing some code in Python on an RPi may be the better result for both systems.   Unfortunately the new device I'm building at work which runs a display, is too slow of a display for dashboard style purposes. More extreme low power, update only a couple of times a day type system
    • I don't like "actual computers" for in car use. They take time to boot up, have OS annoyances, and so on. Arduinos etc are ready to go a few seconds after power on, don't mind being agressively powere cycled, because everything is non-volatile, don't mind being shaken and stirred.
    • As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.
×
×
  • Create New...