Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys so here are the technical specs

 

Rb25det series 2 neo manual

Fmic

Blitz pod

3 inch turbo back

Splitfire coil packs

 

Okay so the car runs fine for 10 mins and will come on boost fine and rev out though I only took it 5k as it was cold. This sputtering as if the traction control has come on the sound is like a limiter the same sound it makes when traction control comes on. Btw I leave traction co troll off because when it would turn on before it would cause knock and then the check engine light would come on. This problem has only occured after installing the splitfires. It happens no matter where in the rev range its just as soon as I got past vacuum and come on to positive pressure bit when it's cold it runs properly. The cars temperature gauge never comes up to halfway either I am replacing the thermostat not sure if this will fix it or if this is a coolant temp sensor.

 

If anyone has I had a similar cutting of power and popcorn sounding noise, point me in the right direction otherwise off to the shop.

  • 2 weeks later...

So I have replaced spark plugs, have splitfires and replaced coil pack harness but whenever I put a bit of load on the car it just breaks up, I'm thinking now to do o2 sensor as I get a misfire on idle, I replaced thermostat as it never comes up to temp but it must be the coolant temp sensor. Basically whenever I give it more than a qtr throttle it sounds like the fuel cut you get when traction control would kick in.

There's no boost leak sadly, I had a boost leak and fixed it car was running fine until the splitfires went in it hold boost fine as I said will go to red line, I'm really leaning towards a dud o2 sensor as it deals with load and I have terrible fuel economy

It will drive fine when the car is completely cold and drives perfect for 10 mins im thinking between the o2 sensor and coolant tempo sensor throwing out the afr I also cleaned maf 3 weeks ago when I found the boost leak

Hey guys I think I've found the problem ive got extreme regarding from the cas, or pre ignition and why my fuel economy is so bad as well I found that a dodgy coolant temp sensor can cause this on skyline owners forum

5 hours ago, zirbmail said:

Hey guys I think I've found the problem ive got extreme regarding from the cas, or pre ignition and why my fuel economy is so bad as well I found that a dodgy coolant temp sensor can cause this on skyline owners forum

Have you checked your sensor or just assume it is the issue?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
×
×
  • Create New...