Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi my r34 gtr always run lower oil temp since i import it 2 years ago. and now even lower with some addition mods like nismo thermostat, and big oil sump etc. 

At moment it run max 75C(normally around 60c-70c depend outside temp) oil and 70C water on street. if i push it hard for 10 mins the oil temp still around 90c, water temp below 80c.

the car has nitto oil pump, high octane 9L sump, nismo oil cooler.  arc intercooler, nismo radiator. car is running e85 made near 500awkw.

should i worry about the oil temp?  i'm start thinking i got bad sensor:(

If you're running 10-40/50 synth oil, perfect operating temp is around 90 deg as far as i'm aware. 

I'm running a Tridon 71 deg thermo i think. Sits on 80-83 deg in normal traffic and cruising.

You can tune around the lower temp using fuel/temp corrections, but 70-75 seems a bit too cold for these engines????

 

i'm not really worry about the water temp, but the oil temp look too low for me. the oil temp only go up to 80C+ when in really bad traffic like 10 mins drive 1km. i use 10w40 or 5w40 oil. maybe i should change to 5w30?

21 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Oil and water in contact in the HX.  Warmer water = warmer oil too.

yes true. but even before i put the nismo thermostat the oil temp still that low.  with the nismo thermostat only the water temp goes lower which is normal for low temp thermostat.  i did a short drive today, found the oil temp did go up to 75c in city with a lot stops. water temp is around 70c if i cruising around , but it go up to 85c when stuck in traffic.

Get rid of the Nismo thermostat and replace with stock. Get a thermostat for your oil cooler and/or make a cover for the oil cooler when you are not thrashing the car. (maybe you are not pushing it hard enough!).

17 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Get rid of the Nismo thermostat and replace with stock. Get a thermostat for your oil cooler and/or make a cover for the oil cooler when you are not thrashing the car. (maybe you are not pushing it hard enough!).

You are right. I did not pushing it hard enough:) but Is there any long term effect from the lower temp? The car drive perfectly. Power always there.   And I change oil every 3000kms or sooner. 

17 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Get rid of the Nismo thermostat and replace with stock. Get a thermostat for your oil cooler and/or make a cover for the oil cooler when you are not thrashing the car. (maybe you are not pushing it hard enough!).

I think Nismo oil cooler should include the oil thermostat plate?

3 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Yes, running engines too cold increases wear, and fuel consumption (assuming tune is not adjusted to suit).

thanks for reply.  i will try use some cardboard block the oil cooler and see the different. my tune is suit for low temp no problem.

  • 2 weeks later...

I recently installed oil cooler and gauges in my car.  I actually didn't think too much about the oil temp being too cold.

 

My gauge starts at 50.  I warm it up, then baby it, revving to 2500 until the gauge starts to move, but it never really gets more than 60 driving.  Running it hard through the hills it might maybe go to 70 and on the racetrack will go to 70-80 max.

I am running 15-60w penrite/nulon.  Should i be concerned or do anything ? The cardboard idea was good...

 

Greddy oil cooler located drivers side

 

 

080120161431.jpg

080120161433.jpg

080120161434.jpg

080120161435.jpg

080120161436.jpg

080120161437.jpg

It's not the 10 in 10-40 that you should consider changing down.  It's the 40.  The smaller number is the "winter" viscosity, which essentially how it behaves dead cold.  At 70 ish degrees, you're not talking about that end of the oil's rating, your talking about the normal end.  So if you're running 40 now, then 30 would be the logical decrease, if you were going to try to deal with your possible low-oil-temperature-causing-high-viscosity problem by running thinner oil, that is.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...